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J

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ok im retarded when it comes to drum brakes, or automotive brakes in general, i just got this hatch not 2 weeks ago, and the brakes are crap, no ebrake :mad: and pedal goes almost to the floor before it starts stopping me, so i had a new master cylinder lying around so i slapped it on, and bled the whole system, still no help, the brakes dont bleed off they jsut go almost to the floor before they start workin, and if i pump them a few times then they work good, but as soon as i let off then hit hte brakes again they go back to the floor!!! my pads and rotors are OK, but that shouldnt be causing it anyway, ive adjusted the rear drums slightly and that didnt help either, im guessing its a rear brake issue since when i pump the brakes up a little then pull the ebrake then it works, i cannot figure out these stupid brakes!!! someone help me!!!

oh yea and will the front disks and pads off a 95 dx coupe work on a 91 dx hatch??? thanks guys
 

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im thinkin it would be the adjuster for the rear. ive worked on a few cars that the adjuster between the shoes get rusted or frozen solid that it doesnt allow the shoes to push out on the drum. that would also explain ur e-brake since its holdin it in and when u pump the pedal, its jus pushin the piston out further allowin u to stop.

farely inexpensive if thats what it is
 

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im thinkin it would be the adjuster for the rear.
^^what he said. i just did this to my car last week. my grommets were missing and water got in there and rusted everything up. if your shoes/drums are in good shape, take all the hardware apart and hit em with a steel wire brush and clean em up nice and then use some caliper grease on the adjuster. also, there are little raised spots on the wheel cyl's that the shoes ride on, clean and grease them up as well. be sure not to get grease on your shoes or drums cus that will F your brakes up. once you get it all together, adjust it with a skrewdriver till you can just barely get your drum on there, then turn it back like 1-1.5 turns so it fits over it nice and make sure it spins freely. if you take everything apart, make sure you only do one side at a time so you have a referance on how to rebuild it.
if everything is spinning freely and you dont feel like taking a day to clean everything and redo it all, just back down your driveway and slam on the brakes a few times. the way the adjuster works is when the brakes are applied in reverse, the shoes are twisted and when they come back around, the little clip turns the adjuster. do this a few times and see if you have a little more pressure.
goodluck
scott
 

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I have the same exact problem, No pedal till half way down then it gets quite stiff. I have replaced about everything in the system along with several complete fluid flushes and rear drum adjustments. The only 3 things that have not been replaced since I have owned the car are the front calipers, brake lines and the poportion valve. List of things tried include pads, shoes, rear wheel cylinders, rear drum springs, master cylinder upraded to si along with the booster. All new parts with no change in performance. I give up and am upgrading to rear disks come spring, no more crappy drums to try and figure out.
 
J

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today im going to try the porpotiary valve or whatever the heck it is, that thing with the brake lines running into it, and then put new pads on the back and adjust them, my adjuster is fine, it spins freely and nothing is rusted, ill drain the system and add fresh fluid, and then rebleed the whole thing, thanks guys
 

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i doubt its the proportioning valve. if it were the prop valve u would get locked up wheels almost evry time u brake since the front is doin all the braking and the rear isnt gettin any pressure. you can still check it out but the best bet would to bleed everything. update us on what it was and if it fixed anything.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
A tip for adjusting those rear drums guys, there is a rubber grommet right behind the adjuster, you can reach in there with a pocket screwdriver; with the wheel on crank the adjuster a few clicks then attempt to rotate your rear wheel, repeat until the wheel drags a little.
 
J

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im about to go out and give it another go, thanks guys, ill keep u posted
 
J

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bump, tried pads, rotors, drums, rear pads, new fluid, bled the whole system, pedal still goes almost to the floor before i get anything out of it, but when i pump it a few times its gets better, im thinking power brake booster? it does the same thing when the car is not running, i can pump the brakes up and they work better, still a crappy ebrake tho, rear pads are adjusted well and new pads and rotors, can anyone help me ?
 

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to check the booster... jus start the car let the brake pedal fell normal, then shut the car off, whiel the car is off you should get about 2-2 1/2 pedal pushes that are vacuum assisted (you can usually hear it) and after theat it should be real hard to push. im jus wondering if it could be the pedal adjustment... lemme kno of the results
 

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Do you lose fluid in the reservoir at all? Still sounds like you need to adjust the rear or maybe you have bad wheel cylinders. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing.Make shure the master cylinder and system doesnt have any air in it again. Its not the booster most likely because that would cause a hard pedal/more difficult to push.
 

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the drums should have a very good drag as you try tp spin them. have you replaced the springs at all? worn springs dont help either. a spring kit is like 10 bucks.:beer:
 
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