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Introducing myself and my project

13320 Views 57 Replies 30 Participants Last post by  jimmyb34
I am new here and pretty new to Honda engines.

I have built race and hot street VW air cooled, Small Block Chevy, and Holden (local GM in Aus) and a Toyota 7M-GTE

I have done mostly motors, but some transmission and body and chassis work.

These varied from a 1970 model full timber ski boat to a 1912 model 1 tonne truck to sweetened up daily drivers to speedway midgets, to 6 litre circuit and ski race boats to supercharged, MFI alcohol drag cars so I am not a newby to performance engine building.

I will have a number of questions specifically about D series Hondas as I am restoring and modifying a 1988 Aussie model CRX.

Only one trim level was offered in Aus, but the good news is it is pretty much identical to the JDM Sir with 4 wheel discs, 6? X 14" alloy wheels, no back seat at all (just a parcel shelf and fold down divider between passanger and luggage areas), twin cam 1600 EFI motor and close ratio 5 speed with short diff ratio. I am still trying to sort the exact specs.

The engine is a D16A8 with catalytic converter rated at 127hp.

I also have ordered the driverain less motor out of a 1988 JDM Civic Wagon with 6 speed (really a 5 speed plus a stump puller low that is not normally used except in tight situations off road) transmission and Real Time 4 WD.

I also have a D17Z1 SOHC non V-tech motor only out of an early 90s Aussie model Civic.

I also have access to several turbos, one with a 36mm inducer and the other somewhat larger, but not yet measured.

I intend to restore the CRX to look as factory stock as possible. OEM trim, maybe leather steering wheel and gear knob, no non OEM body kit nor spoiler. OEM suspension height Maybe harder springs and bars and shocks. 15 X 6.5" or 15 X 7" wheels.

For front brakes, I am considering DBA 5003.1 rotors which are 278mm X 15.9mm and weigh 2.7Kg. I am still looking for 4 spot calipers, possibly those from a Nissan Patrol. I will need to make some aluminium hats for the rotors to mount on. For rears, I might use the OEM fronts or the DBA 5003.1s again. I need to research 2 spot rear calipers and parking brake arangement. If the rear calipers do not include a parking brake, I might need seperate very small mechanical calipers, or mountain bike discs and mechanical calipers mounted inboard. I might need a bigger bore master cylinder.

I intend fitting an LSD to the front at least, probably a Quaife unit. I might put a locker in the rear if traction is still an issue. Probably not with the 1988 Honda RT system.

It will retain OEM air conditioner and power steering and central locking converted to remote.

I will attempt to remove some weight but I do not want to reduce comfort. Maybe fibre glass bonnet, front guards and hatch with Lexan MR rear windows and hatch (maybe).

I hope with the 4 WD and Propane conversion to not add more than 100Kg, hopefully less than 80Kg due to weight savings elsewhere.

A good Alpine stero with 10 stack, but no external amplifiers or boom box speakers. If they don't fit in the OEM provisions, they won't be fitted.

It will be converted for liquid injection, propane fuel only. I will remove all traces of the original fuel tank, lines, pumps, filters etc.

The car has 400,000 Km on it and is very original except for the new gear box and regular maintenance. It runs and is not noticably smokey, but leaks oil, and has vague steering. Gear box is a brand new Honda replacement fitted a year ago.

Motor needs rebuild. Suspension needs some bushes and shocks. Seats need complete rebuild. It has some minor rust holes in pillars near glass. Paint is completely RS but original red. OEM bumpers only need minor repairs. I paid A$800 with new tyres and 6 months rego.
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Welcome to the site,Please read the rules and if you do notice there is a section for NOOBIES just to let you know.
Dude, this guy was a n00b maybe like 40 years ago or so... Did ja read his intro?

My first questions are:-

Are there different twin cam head castings, if so what is different.

Are big valves available and effective.

I am pretty sure that there are a few different single cam V-tech heads. Which one is best. Are big valves available and effective.

Has anyone done side by side flowbench tests on the twin cam head and the best V-tech head for the D series.
Oversized valves are available for d-series motors but I haven't found anything definitive on this site or others that prove how effective they are. If you read my build thread you may have noticed that another member here (pearl62) also built a stroked and bored D18 and went with 1mm oversize valves and a turbo. His motor was a success but who knows if the valves helped or hurt. Still it's something that I'm considering down the road for my build. The extra bore gives me room to increase the combustion chambers to 78mm and unshroud the the valves also.

The most talked about VTEC heads on this site tends to be the D16Y8 and D16Z6. Both motors perform roughly the same in stock form however the head designs are different. The Y8 has a quench pad casting while the Z6 doesn't but has been said to have "better flow".

Here's a Z6.

Here's a Y8.

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Pat, I considered using a deck plate on my build but I couldn't find one. I believe that either I didn't look hard enough or they are no longer available. I did find some references to Golden Eagle deck plates but nothing concrete. Another option you might look into are stackable head gaskets. That may let you extend the deck height to 2mm or more.
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