LAMO .. you sir dont know shit
installing ARPs can be done both ways - with or without removing the head. The second ways is a shitty way though, and I'll tell ya why
if you insist of not removing the head, then you supposed to take one bolt out, and put one stud in, and torque that one to 56ft-lbs. Then move to another one and do the same. Do not loose pressure on the headgasket (if you remove all bolts first) or it may end up blown. But your head gasket may be blown already, or if your head was lifting then ashes have fallen on it, so it won't seal that good anymore
but here's why you should remove the head: when you take a bolt out, there's shit in the bolt hole on the block, so you run a tap through it to clean the threads and take that shit out. Then, when you put the stud in, it goes nicely ALL THE WAY DOWN, unlike the with the first case. That provides nice holding base for the stud, and you can put the nut on top with more torque, if you like.
Torque each stud in the block by hand, then do 1/4 turn more with the allen wrench. When you do so, install new OEM head gasket, put your head, and torque the nuts in 10ft-lbs intervals in a sequence, shown in the Haynes manual. If you don't have one, then those go from the middle studs to the side studs, cross-wise. So you do all at 10, then all at 20, then all at 30 ... and so on, until you reach your desired torque point. I'd go to 70ft-lbs with moly. Then do 10 heat cycles on the engine, and retorque the head studs again.
I bet I'm gonna have a nice talk with somebody about stretching the studs :-D
Miro
