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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to purchase some ARP headstuds. My question is:

Do I NEED to remove the cylinder head and change the headgasket to install them?

OR

Can I just remove the valvecover, remove the stock heastuds one by one, replacing them with the ARP's?

Thanks, any help is appreciated.

Levi
 

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CR-Vtakin
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take the head off to do this. get a new headgasket as well. also get a tap and die to chase the threads in the block. you will be amazed at how much shit comes out after you do it.

-Levi
 

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yea the head has to come off because there is no way to tighten them down with the allen wrench with the head still on.
 

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You do not have to remove the head! take off valve cover remove all head studs. Then put your apr's in. Remember it's very important that there tighten them sequence as you torqu them, walk them down.
 

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yea the head has to come off because there is no way to tighten them down with the allen wrench with the head still on.
Allen wench! You only hand tighten them with allen. Do it with the head on!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so we have mixed reviews. Would like to know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
And thank you Levi for your input.
 

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i honestly would just take the head off but thats me. simply because of tightening them down.
 

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Ok, so we have mixed reviews. Would like to know for sure.
Yeah, you have two options; "quick and dirty" way, and proper way. Which one do you prefer? Personally, I would do it properly and clean block treads..
 

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ARP's are industry standard, most likely user error. My ARP's are all even except for one ( normal), I even check their height but laying a level across the tops to see which ones are not seated.
 

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Do it right the first time so you dont have to go back and do it again, some arp's and a fresh oem gasket should do the trick :TU:
 

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CR-Vtakin
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Do it right the first time so you dont have to go back and do it again, some arp's and a fresh oem gasket should do the trick :TU:
spoken for truth. i dont care who says that it is alright to not remove the head. that is just cutting corners and asking for trouble. the headgasket is a one time use item. as soon as it is crushed it is good until the head comes off again. would you seriously risk having to redo this again? do it once by doing it right. it doesnt take that long to remove a head off the block.
 

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Yeah, you have two options; "quick and dirty" way, and proper way. Which one do you prefer? Personally, I would do it properly and clean block treads..
You must clean the threads when you install the head studs!! :TU: :TU: :TU:
 

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spoken for truth. i dont care who says that it is alright to not remove the head. that is just cutting corners and asking for trouble. the headgasket is a one time use item. as soon as it is crushed it is good until the head comes off again. would you seriously risk having to redo this again? do it once by doing it right. it doesnt take that long to remove a head off the block.
Exactly - if you're already going to put in ARP's, why not spend another hour or so and change the head gasket too? Are you really that pressed for time?
 

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You do not have to remove the head! take off valve cover remove all head studs. Then put your apr's in. Remember it's very important that there tighten them sequence as you torqu them, walk them down.
LAMO .. you sir dont know shit

installing ARPs can be done both ways - with or without removing the head. The second ways is a shitty way though, and I'll tell ya why

if you insist of not removing the head, then you supposed to take one bolt out, and put one stud in, and torque that one to 56ft-lbs. Then move to another one and do the same. Do not loose pressure on the headgasket (if you remove all bolts first) or it may end up blown. But your head gasket may be blown already, or if your head was lifting then ashes have fallen on it, so it won't seal that good anymore

but here's why you should remove the head: when you take a bolt out, there's shit in the bolt hole on the block, so you run a tap through it to clean the threads and take that shit out. Then, when you put the stud in, it goes nicely ALL THE WAY DOWN, unlike the with the first case. That provides nice holding base for the stud, and you can put the nut on top with more torque, if you like.
Torque each stud in the block by hand, then do 1/4 turn more with the allen wrench. When you do so, install new OEM head gasket, put your head, and torque the nuts in 10ft-lbs intervals in a sequence, shown in the Haynes manual. If you don't have one, then those go from the middle studs to the side studs, cross-wise. So you do all at 10, then all at 20, then all at 30 ... and so on, until you reach your desired torque point. I'd go to 70ft-lbs with moly. Then do 10 heat cycles on the engine, and retorque the head studs again.

I bet I'm gonna have a nice talk with somebody about stretching the studs :-D

Miro
 
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