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95 ej2
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Discussion Starter #1
Tried to read all I could..... I have a few of my own specific questions....

I have the red wire on the controller side hooked up to my cig lighter power. Blue and white on the controller side taped up on the frame for an ef's radio (just trying to get the wideband working for now will find a better grond later) black wire on the gauge side is twisted together on the same spot as blue and white on the controller for ground. Now if I read innovates over complicated ( I thought) instructions, red on gauge twists together with black on controller side and does not ground. Yellow and brown on controller side are for analog inputs. But blue and purple are left on the gauge side is my only question. Also besides the fact I don't have one of those push button calibration things? Is the push button necessary to test the wideband right now do I need to get one? Wideband is second hand that's why I'm mainly testing and because I knew I would not be able to figure out the wiring even though it probably is really novice shit.
 

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Meat Popsicle
91 CRX Si
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You should get a push button. ive had the controller bug out twice on me where it either reports full or no voltage and that required a recalibration to fix.

You can calibrate without a button but it's so much easier with one
 

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95 ej2
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Discussion Starter #3
But will I be able to test the controller and gauge right now without the push button?
 

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Scrap it pick up a PLX wideband. I had an innovative and it was nothing but problems. Went through 2 sensors and it would never work with my s300 finally after the second sensor went out i sold the controller and gauge and got a plx, never regretted it.
Do you have the touch screen one?
 

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95 ej2
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Discussion Starter #7
Ya I guess I could look into that but I guess my question is my wiring correct?
 

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Tried to read all I could..... I have a few of my own specific questions....

I have the red wire on the controller side hooked up to my cig lighter power. Blue and white on the controller side taped up on the frame for an ef's radio (just trying to get the wideband working for now will find a better grond later) black wire on the gauge side is twisted together on the same spot as blue and white on the controller for ground. Now if I read innovates over complicated ( I thought) instructions, red on gauge twists together with black on controller side and does not ground. Yellow and brown on controller side are for analog inputs. But blue and purple are left on the gauge side is my only question. Also besides the fact I don't have one of those push button calibration things? Is the push button necessary to test the wideband right now do I need to get one? Wideband is second hand that's why I'm mainly testing and because I knew I would not be able to figure out the wiring even though it probably is really novice shit.
The black should not be grounded, that needs the LED and push button. The yellow wire (NBO2 output) will be taped up and not used, brown (WBO2) will go to your gauge. What gauge are you using? Can't help with the blue and purple wires until that question is answered.

LC-1 Manual said:
2.2 Wiring

The LC-1 has 6 stripped wires, a serial IN, and a serial OUT port.

1. Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your car. A switched 12V source goes ON as soon as the ignition on the car is on. The circuit to which you will pull power from should be able to support an additional 3 amp draw. Make sure the connection is fused with a minimum fuse size of 5A.

* Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system, ECU, lighting, or fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional circuit using an automotive relay available at any automotive parts supplier. See the next section for a relay installation diagram.

2. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded together to a solid ground source. The best possible ground source would be the battery ground (-) post.

* If you have an LC-1 with 7 stripped connect the additional green wire to the same ground source as the blue and white wires. If other Innovate Motorsports devices are going to be daisy-chained along with the SCG-1, it is recommended that all devices be connected to a single ground point, ideally the battery ground (-) post.

3. Connect the LED and momentary pushbutton between the LC-1’s BLACK calibration wire and ground. Connect the red wire (Anode) of the included LED AND one side of the push button to the calibration wire (black) of the LC-1. Connect the black wire (Cathode) of the LED AND the other side of the push button to ground (preferably to the same ground point as the blue and white wires.)

4. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, ECUs, or gauges. If either one or both of these wires are not being used, isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way.

Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same grounding location as the device to which you are feeding the analog outputs to.
 

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95 ej2
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Discussion Starter #12
Duh........ Their probably using a different gauge then what comes with the innovate..... I guess I gotta find out what that is.....
 

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I have a used LC1 I got from a friend, I hooked it up as per these instruction http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

I did not have a push button switch so i just hooked up an LED I had left over from building my ECU and I just ground the calibration wire to the same spot I hooked up the LC1 ground and it has been working fine.
 

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The plx was the last bit i was holding onto from my turbo build part out but i needed the money at the time so i had to let it go.

Dont get me wrong the lc1 will work but much sooner you will be replacing the sensor than other brands and good luck getting accurate readings in data logging through the engine management program. You dont want to tune like that, having to look at 2 different places. So if you just want to see your afr get an lc1, if you want to tune yourself go with the plx. Either way the plx is only about $33 more.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I need to find out what gauge I have...... how im gonna do that idk.... ha theres no markings or anything on it, because there is A gauge that would usually come with the lc-1 as A package right?

Will the lc-1 not log AF's through crome or neptune?
 

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Dont get me wrong the lc1 will work but much sooner you will be replacing the sensor than other brands and good luck getting accurate readings in data logging through the engine management program. You dont want to tune like that, having to look at 2 different places. So if you just want to see your afr get an lc1, if you want to tune yourself go with the plx. Either way the plx is only about $33 more.
Not trying to disagree with you, but for the record I've had my lc-1 since 2006 (ie. about 10 years) and am on the original sensor with no issue. I've also logged the data into various software using both the analog output and serial stream. The lc-1 uses a linear slope for the analog output and should be easily input into most any software.

The PLX looks impressive and is worth looking at if in the market for a new wideband setup. The one thing I like about innovate products is that I can daisy chain a bunch of their products together (ie. EGT/CHT, etc) and log thru the serial bus directly into software.

For the original question, I believe the BROWN wire from the lc-1 needs to be connected to the gauge input. That's as far as I can go without specifics on the gauge.
 
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