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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for injector options for a possible turbo DD setup on a D16y7. Having difficulties finding info. Would 97+ prelude injectors be enough? Has anyone used Oside tiger 310cc injectors? Both of these should be plug and play on factory harness??
 

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contact HiProfile here on teh board. He owns and operates Injector Nation.

i bought my plug and play bosch style 550cc injectors from him. they worked great for me.

stratton.
 

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Honda Del Sol Si
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Less than 200hp??? Well after literally a 2 minute search... Your stock injectors are 280cc and good for something around 190whp but that's at 100% duty cycle on 40psi. So you could get pretty much anything bigger than those and be fine. I'd go with more than the 310cc though because they hardly support any more power. Get yourself some 440cc or better and you should be good until you increase your power goals. You can oversize even more and never have to mess with it again, which is the route I'm going instead of buying twice.
 

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you have two options

get your current injectors cleaned/serviced (or buy a second set to have worked over)

OR

buy new injectors. even a huge set of 1000cc injectors can idle perfectly and drive nicely. modern design is something to strive for in the fuel world.

Personally, if I had a tuning solution on my civic, Id grab a set of 300-550cc injectors. the vastly improved spray pattern makes for a much better tuning experience and driving experience. part throttle performance is also greatly improved, even over a set of clean OEM obd2 injectors
 

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Sh*t! This is what I get for skimming while watching a movie. I thought you said you HAVE the prelude injectors already. Those are 280cc. You have 190cc (another 2min search) injectors, but my other info still applies.
 

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Less than 200hp??? Well after literally a 2 minute search... Your stock injectors are 280cc and good for something around 190whp but that's at 100% duty cycle on 40psi. So you could get pretty much anything bigger than those and be fine. I'd go with more than the 310cc though because they hardly support any more power. Get yourself some 440cc or better and you should be good until you increase your power goals. You can oversize even more and never have to mess with it again, which is the route I'm going instead of buying twice.
Sh*t! This is what I get for skimming while watching a movie. I thought you said you HAVE the prelude injectors already. Those are 280cc. You have 190cc (another 2min search) injectors, but my other info still applies.

no.

your information is still incorrect.

280cc injectors at 40psi of rail pressure does NOT translate into 100% duty cycle at or about 190whp on a 4 cylinder.


Never saw a b20vtec with the bolt on goodies tuned? stock honda 240cc injectors at stock rail pressure (above 40psi BTW) were not at 100% duty even at 200whp

let alone 280cc injectors.

I believe prelude injectors varied 275cc or 315cc, anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yea I'm aware trying to make the stock 190s isn't really a smart idea. Options were the 97+ prelude setup which apparently bolts up just fine to stock rail and manifold. Any need to buy a FPR or hondata tune takes care of it all by leaving the stock pressure setting. Considering my options, I have a 650ish whp 2015 GT, I kinda want some low budget fun so I don't go full retard on the mustang yet.
 

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if you have the money for a 650whp mustang

go freakin drop a j35 into your civic. the odyssey v6's are dirt ass cheap, and you can piece the swap together for under 2 grand.

then you have over 200whp and oiver 200wtq, and stupid reliable while being nearly as fast as your mustang gt was in 100% factory form
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
if you have the money for a 650whp mustang

go freakin drop a j35 into your civic. the odyssey v6's are dirt ass cheap, and you can piece the swap together for under 2 grand.

then you have over 200whp and oiver 200wtq, and stupid reliable while being nearly as fast as your mustang gt was in 100% factory form
Don't want to get too involved with it or it kinda loses that low cost factor. But the biggest reason to not go over the top with it is because I live in an area (south Florida) that is notorious for stollen Hondas. Considering I drive this thing anywhere, it's only a matter of time til it's taken if I get fancy.
 

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60 lb/hr EV14 injectors you may need adapter or to drill your fuel rail. EV14 style injectors are the way to go. very low pulse with control.
 

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Don't want to get too involved with it or it kinda loses that low cost factor. But the biggest reason to not go over the top with it is because I live in an area (south Florida) that is notorious for stollen Hondas. Considering I drive this thing anywhere, it's only a matter of time til it's taken if I get fancy.
if that is the way you feel, then I suggest skipping this power build, and do the important stuff that gets BIG improvements.

#1, full maintenance. fluids, plugs, wires, grounding, disty cap and rotor, etc.. This includes the easily forgotten shit like TPS calibration, new coolant temp sensor, intake air sensor, and and doing a valve lash adjustment

#2 grab a short transmission from an OBD1 EX or SI, or an OBD2 EX, and slap a 4.7 final drive into it.



Those 2 things alone will make the car MUCH snappier of a performer, run great, and yet still remain 100% stock in appearance. not to mention, the new final drive WILL put a smile on your face whenever you drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
if that is the way you feel, then I suggest skipping this power build, and do the important stuff that gets BIG improvements.

#1, full maintenance. fluids, plugs, wires, grounding, disty cap and rotor, etc.. This includes the easily forgotten shit like TPS calibration, new coolant temp sensor, intake air sensor, and and doing a valve lash adjustment

#2 grab a short transmission from an OBD1 EX or SI, or an OBD2 EX, and slap a 4.7 final drive into it.



Those 2 things alone will make the car MUCH snappier of a performer, run great, and yet still remain 100% stock in appearance. not to mention, the new final drive WILL put a smile on your face whenever you drive it.
I did do all new fluids including clutch and trans, new fuel filter, tires. Car drove much better afterwards, it was choking itself as 3k, must have been the fuel filter. I might do that EX trans eventually, but this one is very smooth right now. Is the 4.7 FD an aftermarket piece?
 

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The only time I have seen a full, complete SC D series kit go for 2 grand, was a kit that had less than 5k miles on it, and was in PERFECT condition in every way.

Ive seen a few rare complete kits for obd2 D16 go for 800-1400 on ebay over the years.


I would say an ebay replica of garret GT15 or an OEM early generation subaru turbo would net a very responsive 150-200whp very easily. If you decided to stick with 150whp, keep in mind you wont need to run an intercooler, allowing still great response, and a bit less cost and hassle.


But honestly, go on ebay. type in factory turbo. filter on left, check the box "used".

Ive seen a metric shit ton of OEM turbo parts from euro and japanese cars go DIRT ass cheap. and its a regular thing, not a diamond in rough
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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yeah, I'm about to sell the two stock turbos from my GTR (which are T28s, T3 50 trim compressor wheels with T25 .48 AR exhausts) for 245 for BOTH.

old OE turbos aren't worth much sadly
 

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yeah, I'm about to sell the two stock turbos from my GTR (which are T28s, T3 50 trim compressor wheels with T25 .48 AR exhausts) for 245 for BOTH.

old OE turbos aren't worth much sadly
I wonder how they compare to the Greddy 15g turbo.

They're both T25 exhausts.

Hmm...
 
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