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Chevy with a cummins
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Discussion Starter #1
I ordered up a set of eibach springs for my 93 hatch, that will lower it 1.2 inches. I'm looking at getting some ingalls uca adjustable bushings, because I need to have the uppers adjustable to work out some other issues as well. anyone know how much 1.2 inches will put the camber in? the ingalls box says +1.25 to +3 range, and I'm wondering if that will push the camber out too far with just that much drop. I need to made it adjustable so trying to determine using those, or moog adjustable ball joints.
I have use of an alignment rack but want it to all be ready to go so I only mess with it one time.I don't want to tie up the rack too long.
 

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Chevy with a cummins
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Discussion Starter #3
I've got adjustable arms for the rear. I need to adjust the caster in the front though. tired of the pulling to one side. been that way for years, its beyond replacing parts it needs to be adjustable to fix it. its all been replaced several time and still pulls.
I was looking at the wrong ingalls kit. the other one goes up to +1 degree of camber, so thats prob the kit I would need. its the 35700 kit.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,425 Posts
You won't need any adjusters for such a small drop, just a toe check in the front.

caster is not adjustable, you have bent parts.
 

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Chevy with a cummins
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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I know the car is bent from a wreck 14 years ago. its not enough to wear tires, just a slight pull to one side. that why I want to make the uppers adjustable so while I have it on an alignment machine I can use It to fix it. unfortunately I dont have a frame machine to borrow as well!
I guess the biggest question was what was better, the ingalls adjusters or the adjustable moog ball joints. guess I'll order the Ingalls and roll with it. the ball joints are still tight.
 

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you can put washers behind the front lower control arms to adjust caster, but its not a recommended "repair"

but do it opposite of the corner that pulls. do one washer at a time, and make sure they are "shim" washers (machined to a tolerance)

but the effect will be minor, so pulling out the damage will be far better than adjusting for repair.

if you can somehow get measurements for what area is effected, chain that bitch to a tree and give it a redneck alignment, the cars crumple zone is already fucked and worthless in a front end collision if its tweaked enough to pull
 

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Chevy with a cummins
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Discussion Starter #8
the subframe has been swapped, along with every piece of suspension. it was hit above framerail, so nothing really visual to see bent other than the sheetmetal wheelwell. been over it alot measuring, etc. used to have a frame machine to use, but thats been a few years back. just going to make the uppers adjustable like they should have been from the factory and move on I guess.
 
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