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FYB or FIU tune, pick 1
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok heres my setup http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/143080-del-sol-just-cus.html#post2236226

and heres my problem, it gets hot, i live in florida where its hot and humid but i wana do something before it gets too bad. The temp gauges makes it half way when cruising and the oil gets to 200 usually, i dont dare try the interstate atm.

so what should i do? i ordered hood risers from a member on here just waiting for them to come in, i hope they help but i dont like the look :/. My next step was to do a gates racing low temp thermostat or an aluminum radiator with shroud and slim fan, whats better a 2 row or 3 row? id think a 3 row but i hear 2's are better? please chime in guys.

Also since it doesnt get too cold down here what should i do for water to coolant mixture? 40/60? 70/30? anyone use water wetter?
 

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Have you tried to run your fan on constantly to see if that helps with temps? Seems like the radiator is getting restricted and not getting enough airflow. I would try different things before going out and spending money. For all you know, it might not change anything at all.
 

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FYB or FIU tune, pick 1
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Discussion Starter #3
Have you tried to run your fan on constantly to see if that helps with temps? Seems like the radiator is getting restricted and not getting enough airflow. I would try different things before going out and spending money. For all you know, it might not change anything at all.
thats what i thought, a mixture of the turbo being close to the block and a big front mount.
 

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I had the same dimensioned IC with my old turbo Del Sol and I never had issues with temp. This was in hot 90 degree weather and even after pulls on the highway at 15PSI my temp needle never went pass the halfway mark and the hottest temp I've logged was 230 and this was on a single row stock Civic half-core radiator so I'm thinking it might be something else. Could be air in the coolant system, bad air flow, clogged rad, weak rad cap, etc.
 

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FYB or FIU tune, pick 1
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Discussion Starter #5
I had the same dimensioned IC with my old turbo Del Sol and I never had issues with temp. This was in hot 90 degree weather and even after pulls on the highway at 15PSI my temp needle never went pass the halfway mark and the hottest temp I've logged was 230 and this was on a single row stock Civic half-core radiator so I'm thinking it might be something else. Could be air in the coolant system, bad air flow, clogged rad, weak rad cap, etc.
This is what i was wondering if people had this problem with similar setups but they all seemed fine, i guess if my rads clogged or bad cap a new one will fix it, im positive theres no air in the cooling system or a bad headgasket.
 

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Also since it doesnt get too cold down here what should i do for water to coolant mixture? 40/60? 70/30? anyone use water wetter?
Coolant mix tips:
100% Coolant = Lowered freezing/boiling point
100% H20 = Raised freezing/boiling point + risk rusting the entire cooling system (meaning non-recommended)
Over here in socal, I would assume our weather is about the same an I still run 100% coolant without experiencing overheating
Check coolant for bubbles/leaking if there is any
 

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230 is really hot...

when it comes to radiators, its kinda hard to find one that isnt going to work well... ebay ones seem to work pretty well and they care cheap, but if you dont get a fan that will flow enough air then it wont help out too well.
 

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FYB or FIU tune, pick 1
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Discussion Starter #8
Coolant mix tips:
100% Coolant = Lowered freezing/boiling point
100% H20 = Raised freezing/boiling point + risk rusting the entire cooling system (meaning non-recommended)
Over here in socal, I would assume our weather is about the same an I still run 100% coolant without experiencing overheating
Check coolant for bubbles/leaking if there is any
well i always run atleast 50/50 and so do alot of people i know i was just wondering if more water would help.
 

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Coolant mix tips:
100% Coolant = Lowered freezing/boiling point
100% H20 = Raised freezing/boiling point + risk rusting the entire cooling system (meaning non-recommended)
Over here in socal, I would assume our weather is about the same an I still run 100% coolant without experiencing overheating
Check coolant for bubbles/leaking if there is any
running 100% coolant isnt a good idea if you are having heating problems. the water itself is what cools the block and without something to really cool the block your problem will only get worse.

here in texas where it is also very hot and humid in the summer time, we normally use a 50/50 mix or as close to it and get great results. you should be able to get away with a 50/50-70/30 mix
 

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FYB or FIU tune, pick 1
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Discussion Starter #10
running 100% coolant isnt a good idea if you are having heating problems. the water itself is what cools the block and without something to really cool the block your problem will only get worse.

here in texas where it is also very hot and humid in the summer time, we normally use a 50/50 mix or as close to it and get great results. you should be able to get away with a 50/50-70/30 mix
thank you this is what i was thinking about, any experience with water wetter?
 

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230 was the highest I've logged and this was after a few hours on the freeway doing some street tuning. But normal driving I've always seen on average 210-215. But then again like I said, the needle never moved pass the halfway mark so to me still running cool enough.

I've always read that running 100% water would result in the best thermo-transfer, but you want at least a 30/70 mix because the coolant also acts as a lubricant for the hoses and to keep the coolant system from developing rust.
 

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Oh whoops I noticed that I put down that I put 100% coolant, I meant I run 50/50, my bad :sweatdrop: I don't think staying up about past one day is healthy
 

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thank you this is what i was thinking about, any experience with water wetter?
My Jeep had been running a bit hot at 215-230 last summer even after a new radiator and thermostat with a 50/50 mix. I used the whole bottle of Water Wetter and immediately saw the temps during my long commute drop to around 200. Worked for me!
 

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First problem get a spal fan. I would venture to say that with that you should be ok even with the single core rad. How close is you turbo to the rad? try some heat wrap as well. Stock shit is really not up to the task. And those cheap o fans that claim to push CFM suck ass as well been there done that went spal and never looked back. I was cruising around with ECT in the 168 range which was way to cold that fan would cut on and you could hear it over the motor. Neek175 has a fan that is pretty crazy too but we have no clue who the hell made it or where it came from
 

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FYB or FIU tune, pick 1
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Discussion Starter #19
Im half sleep but r ur afr good? N whens the last time you did a coolant fluush? Also freeway should cool better because of the 60mph air
AFR's are good, dyno tune is running great. been waitng to do a flush do to the fact i thought i was gona be getting a new rad.

These are my plans guys, new aluminum 2 row radiator with cap/shroud/fan, coolant flush, then filled with a bottle of water wetter and 60/40 mix, hood risers. Do you guys think i should do the low temp thermostat or just see what the following will do? my thermo is old so i figured might as well replace it while everythings out.
 
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