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Discussion Starter #1
I just mounted my walbro 255 fuel pump. The car is stock as it can be. As i was reading through threads then i couldnt find anything that said i shouldn mount a bigger fuel pump on a stock engine.

But i got one problem, the rpm drops to 0 ( almost dying) then it raise back to normal , 800-1000 rpm. This only happens when i drive and gear shifting. It doesnt drop all the way to 0 when i drive normaly but it drops to much. But if i clutch and release the throttle then it will fall all the way down to 0 and then go back to normal. This happend after i installed my walbro fuel pump.

It isnt a big of a problem, but it shouldnt be there either.

Preciate some help thanks.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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$190 Aeromotive FPR will solve your problem.

So will tuning the ECU.

SO why did you add such a HUGE pump?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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B&M won't do anything without the TOO/ENDYN mod and is subject to sticking open, bypassing all fuel back to the tank.

I know, I had one!
 

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Well, I can tell you that I'm very happy with my $40 B&M[actually got it free], and I havent had any problems with it at all, but, I've only been using it for about 2,500 miles.

If your interested in doing it, check out my write-up on how to install the kit.
-Andrew
 

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I had a b&m too and was very happy with it. Sold the car to my buddy and its still working fine on his car. Its about 6-7 yrs old now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
$190 Aeromotive FPR will solve your problem.

So will tuning the ECU.

SO why did you add such a HUGE pump?
If you check out my thread then you understand why i had to do it. Going to boost my car, but i just wanted to get done with the pump.

But will i damage something if i drive around like this? Thats the most important thing, if i am going to order a fpr then it will take somee time before i get it.
 

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You can foul the plugs, run like crap, and smell like gas everytime you get in your car...

or you can wait a week for it to arrive.

I'd just find another way to get around mang.
just make SURE you buy a gauge to go with it.(one that screws into the filter)
Otherwise, how can you adjust the pressure if you don't know what your adjusting it to? heh
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One of my friend told me to drill a hole into the side of the rail and put a gauge to check the pressure and then eventually buy an B&M....?




I have readed both Andrew`s diy and the link ryan gave.

As i can see the only difference between those to are that "theoldone" drilled the pressure relief hole inside the fuel entry orifice.Aandrew did not.

Is it just to do it either way?

And will an fpr be the easiest way? I am not good with cars, well i have never done something like this.

But you all agree that i have to get an B&M or FPR? I also dont understand what B&M stand for :p.

Another thing, the fuel pump arent suposed to delivere more fuel or?. The car is stock so why does it give me more fuel?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If i purchase an AEM fuel pressure regulator, how do i adjust the pressure with out an gauge...

Is it possbile to get an gauge mounted to the AEM or is it just to drill an hole into the rail?

Preciate all the help i can get:p
 

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What "theoldone" did by drilling that hole is just what he said it would do:

theoldone said:
Unfortunately, in addition to increasing available fuel volume, most of these high-output pumps increase fuel pressure across the range as well. This pressure increase at idle and in the lower rpm ranges can cause the engine to run excessively rich, causing poor mileage, illegal emission levels, premature catalytic converter failure, plug fouling, and generally poor overall performance.

To remedy the problem, it's necessary to reduce the fuel pressure by installing an adjustable-kit such as the B&M on the stock pressure regulator. While this will permit pressure adjustment, many enthusiasts find that they still can't lower idle pressures enough to alleviate their problems.

The orifice (or valve) inside the Honda regulators is so small in diameter that it serves as a restriction to fuel returning to the tank, so no amount of adjustment will drop the pressure.

Our method for solving this problem is to drill a pressure relief hole in the regulator, connecting the inlet area to the exit. This will allow some excess pressure to by-pass the restrictive valve in the regulator.
As you can see, he didn't say it was nessesary, or else B&M would have to manufacturer there parts that way. What he did was just a nice trick to help your system be relieved of that excess pressure at idle.

Hopefully this will simplify some stuff.
Just remember to just keep it simple, stupid(K.I.S.S)

1. B&M is a company who makes, among other things, an FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator).
2. A adjustable FPR [aem, b&m, etc] allows you to, you guessed it, adjust the amount of fuel is pressurized in the fuel rail.
3. You purchased a 255Liter Per Hour fuel pump. The stock one is 190LPH. Hence more fuel delivery.
4 Gauge- I would NOT recommend drilling/tapping a hole in your fuel rail, especially since your not too savvy with cars. The easiest thing for you to do is buy one of B&M's gauges that screws into your factory filter[into the small 12mm pressure relief bolt on one of the bigger banjo bolts].
5. Buy This and call it a day. This is everything you need.

-Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Andrew have helped me through PM, so i thought i had solved this problem.

But i took the car for a ride and tested it, now everything seemed to be fine!!
So maybe it wasnt bad it just had to get used to it? So what shall i do now...

Leave it or buy a fpr?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I changed my pump on sunday. Then went for driving, then i noticed the problem. Parked the car, then i didnt drove it because i needed some answeres.

Then i thought maybe it was just that little thing that happend rigth after the swap so! i tried the car yesterday with my m8, both of us agreed that the idle problem wasnt there when gear shifting.

I will try the car later on this week and check out. But you guys say i should still get an fpr and gauge?
 
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