If everything runs fine off idle, and you plug the hole with your finger on the inside of the TB and it dies, it's 'probably' not a vacuum leak, and more likely just ingesting too much air from the number of air control valves, but don't rule it out right away. Try to tackle vac leak testing first.
Spray around the intake area with throttle body cleaner or flammable non-chlorinated brake clean. When the vapors from the spray get near a vacuum leak, they are sucked in and the engine responds due to you temporarily forcing the engine rich. This will cause RPM to fall, which is the telltale of the spray being ingested by the engine through an area where it should be sealed. Remember, only spray around the intake and/or vacuum operated components in areas where there should be VACUUM, meaning if you spray around the intake with the TB wide open with no pipe attached, you could be drawing vapors into the throttle body end which will give you a false positive. Connect the intake pipe to the TB and point the open end away from vapors when testing to prevent this, especially if you are testing around your TB gasket. If you spray everywhere and you can't get idle to drop or stop surging the way it normally does in your video, you probably don't have a vac leak.
And for god sake, please don't spray on or around your distributor lol. The distributor cap is vented, vapors can get in and sparks are there

Can't tell you how many times I've seen guys accidentally spray around a dist and POOF, a quick fireball lol. Harder to accidentally do this on Honda engines with the dist off to the side of the head, easier to do on older GM/Ford/Chrysler vehicles since the dist is typically at the front or rear of the intake in blind areas that are hard to not spray when testing. In either case, the danger is still very real and present, just a heads up if you've never done this before!
If you find you don't have a leak, then try two more things before moving on to taking FITV and idle control valve apart for cleaning.
1. You don't have a Check Engine Light on do you? Maybe there are wiring issues? You didn't accidentally switch around connectors like the MAP or IAC did you? Just food for thought!
2. Try lowering metered air by adjusting the TB bleed air screw, this one:
Your TB may or may not have a cap over this screw, hiding it. Turning it in closes the bleed air passage, loosening it opens it. Try turning it in a bit and see if surge stops. Go slowly, no more than 1/4 turn at a time, then blip the throttle valve and let the engine come down to idle. See if it still surges. Keep going and trying again to see if you can control the idle. If you end up bottoming out the screw or are past 2 full turns and you are still surging, check the FITV and IAC components.