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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well im pretty good at figuring out problems but this one got me wonderin:mad: . well when i start the car itll idle fine for about 10 seconds then jump to 2000 stay there for about 5 then die. if i unplug the TPS sensor itll stay idleing but itll hunt for idle. the codes i get are code 5(without TPS unpluged, an code 7 w/ it unpluged). on top of that it has a miss:cussing: while back i got a code 15 which is a bad ignitor so i guess im gonna change the dizzy(it makin a lil noise). can anyone think of anything els might be wrong besides the MAP sensor. heres a dumb question to me were it the dam map sensor it it on the driverside on the intake?
 

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the map sensor is on the firewall... check all the vacum lines and if there are no leaks I'd try replacing the map sensor....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ohhhhhhhhhh ok, ive should have known that. im a dumbass


i do have one hose were the green arrow is thats not conected. could i just tea it into the intake. but it doesnt look importaint cause its from the charcol can.
 

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Do you still have the vaccum routing diagram on the under side of the hood? If so hook everything up the way it says on that even the charcoal canister!
 

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i have a 89 civic hatch that i swapped to mpfi and put in a dohc zc. the idle wanders but not slow its fast and it makes it surge when light gas is applied it runs a code 14 i think it might be bad period if anyone has any info that would be great
 

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i have a 89 civic hatch that i swapped to mpfi and put in a dohc zc. the idle wanders but not slow its fast and it makes it surge when light gas is applied it runs a code 14 i think it might be bad period if anyone has any info that would be great
to check the EACV (code 14) disconnect the electrical connector to the EACV - idle should drop to around 500-600rpm and remain steady - if it does, the EACV is bad or not working correctly - if idle still fluctuates, you may have other problems in addition to the EACV - other causes are vacuum leak, low coolant level or air in the cooling system, bad wiring connection or faulty MAP sensor - be sure to reset the ECU to clear the code
 

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its suposed to click if the key is on and you unplug it and plug it back in it dosent i dont know ive went throught the wiring at the ecu everything is right i was hoping someone would know what was up thanks for the info i gave you credit for it man thanks
 

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its suposed to click if the key is on and you unplug it and plug it back in it dosent i dont know ive went throught the wiring at the ecu everything is right i was hoping someone would know what was up thanks for the info i gave you credit for it man thanks
the other thing you might check is to see that you have the right connector plugged into the EACV - the EACV has a 2-wire connector (on your DPFI, the connector was green) with blue with yellow stripe wire and black with yellow stripe wire - we see a lot of MPFI swaps (people bring them in to have us figure out what is wrong) where the tandem valve connector (which isn't needed), also 2-wire with orange and black/yellow wires, is plugged into the EACV - also, sometimes see the IAT (intake air temp) sensor plugged into the EACV - when this happens you get both code 14 and code 10
 

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got it but

i got i figured out but now it wants ti idle at like 2500 i dont have a tack it got ripped off but it shoots up with it connected i think i have a big vaccum leak maby the throttle body gasket if you have any ideas id like to hear them i took the idle control valve off plugged the holes and it idled at like 1200 so i think it has to be sucking air somewhere thanks for the info man
 
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