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Discussion Starter #1
ive got a D15B1 with the mpfi swap done. I need to buy a new IAC. Do I buy one for the D15B1 or the D16Z6 that the intake manifold came off of?
 

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do you not realize the OBD status needs its specific IACV?

are you OBD0 or OBD1? If you do not know this, you did not do your own mpfi, so ask the person who did it then.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sorry, its an OBD0. I didn't do the MPFI swap. the previous owner did. I know the ECU is from a 91 crx si. and he said the intake came from a 95 or 96 Civic LX.
 

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95 lx would be a d15b7 manifold. a 96 lx would be a d16y7 plenum-less intake manifold with no IACV mount
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well alright then. Now that i feel like an idiot, ill just match serial numbers and go from there. Thanks for the help.
 

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Not to make you feel like more of an idiot but why do you need to buy a new IACV?
 

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Well alright then. Now that i feel like an idiot, ill just match serial numbers and go from there. Thanks for the help.
if you can stick a phone or camera behind the manifold, the numbers are usually on the upper or lower back of theplenum.


look for a letter "p" followed by 08, m3, 06, etc
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im thinking IAC because it has had problems with the idle, and every once in a while, it will sputter real bad and wont rev in gear and pushing the throttle. But as soon as you let off the throttle, itll idle smooth. Ive already replaced the TPS last summer as well as cleaned the IAC. It doesnt do this all the time, but enough to where i just want to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well alright then. Now that i feel like an idiot, ill just match serial numbers and go from there. Thanks for the help.
if you can stick a phone or camera behind the manifold, the numbers are usually on the upper or lower back of theplenum.


look for a letter "p" followed by 08, m3, 06, etc

Thank you. Ill will take a look.
 

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90 crx si/96 accord
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Honda D iacv's very rarely go bad. Imo you should spend some time troubleshooting and verifying the p.o.'s work before throwing parts at it
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On Thursday, it started acting up on me and i could accelerate up the hill to get out of my apartment complex. So i rolled backwards into a parking spot and noticed my check engine light was on. I turnned off the car and started it back up. The check engine light was off and the car didnt give me any other issues for the rest of the night. If i drive "spirited" and push the car a bit, the check engine light will pop on, but it wont run any different. And then whenever i turn the car off and then start it back up, the light will be off.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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did you ever pull the code?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea, thats why i replaced the throttle position sensor. It was one of three options, and the cheapest. Figured id start there. Looking over the previous owners work, it looks decent. Aside from some sloppy soldering, all the conections are infact conected.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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what were the other codes then? if the cheapest "fix" didn't do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, just went out today to start it and mess around a bit, it wont start and im getting a 4, 8, and 20.
 

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Thank you.


I got it running. I should probably mention that ive had this car stolen already so ive been pulling the ECU fuse. This time when i put the fuse back in, i needed to reset the computer by undoing the battery for a bit. There is no check engine light on now. And its idling fine.
 
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