updateHas the throttle stop screw on the bottom of the tb, the little allen/jamb nut combo been tampered with? Or possible the throttle are itself is bent?
Only thing I can think of is the pcv hose stopping the surging when pinched. when it was surging so now I’ve got a new pcv grommet and hose from Honda should be in Tuesday sadly. Was going to get a pcv but it’s like 80$! When it’s 3 at any other parts store. Do you have any other suggestions? I also saw some where that oil will leak from there and I do have a leak I thought it was from the oil pan but I check the pcv box and I can’t see any leak but then again it’s hard to seeDid you toss your original iacv?
So I tried this again I pulled the Iacv plug tried to get it to 550 I couldn’t go below 1200 then I hooked up the timing gun it was closest to the red mark with the dizzy maxed out clockwise. And i messed with the idle screw so idk which one to set first the dizzy or idle screw but I’ve also tried and nothing lets me get the idle below 1200ish. The car stoped surging since I messed with the pcv but it still surges when the CEL comes one and when it’s not on it idles high and sounds like it’s blipping kinda like it wants to surgeHave you checked the idle screw o-ring? After that do the idle relearn, warm the car up, shut it off, pull iacv plug, start it, use idle screw to get idle at 550, check base ignition timing, adjust if needed, re adjust idle screw to 550, shut it down pull battery cables for 15 minutes, reconnect iacv and battery cables and restart, then just let it idle for 20 minutes or so.
Should I take the pcv box off and change both grommet and o ring that goes to block. Ya when I have the idle screw open like 1 turn and a half the idle hole hisses really loud when I touch throttle and when it’s closed some times I will change the o ring in the idle screw too. Is there a video I could make to help. And I just wanna say thank you very much for still helping me this long I really appreciate it. I wish I could show you in person you in cali haha jkWithout getting hands on it and a feel for what exactly it's doing now it's hard to say. now that it's more settled I might revisit ignition timing and base idle setting see if anything has changed there. I might change the oring on the pcv box and the idle bleed screw. Without the iacv plugged in idle should fall as the idle screw gets tuned in, pretty much until it dies, yours only going down to 1200 says air is getting in somehow, the loud hiss from the bleed hole says that it's flowing too much there, but hard to tell from a video.
Ok thanks again. And I will try all this Tuesday when I get the parts in. 15$ for a damn 4 inch hose. And 20$ for the grommet. At least Ik it will be oem. I’ll pull the pcv box and try to clean it and replace o ring in bleed screw and pcv box along with pcv grommet and hoseCalifornia specs call for 550-700 idle speed, get as close as you can to that, check and adjust timing, then recheck idle, if you need to adjust idle again than recheck the timing after, and on it goes until neither needs adjusted.
UpdateCalifornia specs call for 550-700 idle speed, get as close as you can to that, check and adjust timing, then recheck idle, if you need to adjust idle again than recheck the timing after, and on it goes until neither needs adjusted.
Will do tomorrow.Now that it's idleing lower check base timing again.
Should I be considered with the idle screw closed all the wayWill do tomorrow.
was gonna say I did it already but I forgot to jump the connector. But also I turned the dizzy both ways max to see which way gives me lower idle and the lowest I could go was 850. And I thought if I have the idle screw closed all the waY the engine should almost die