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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Start by checking the ignition timing with the gun first, no reason to freak yourself out worrying about cam timing unless the ignition timing is out of adjustment range, then I might suspect a skipped belt, but not yet.
so check ignition timing if I can’t get it timed with just moving dizy with the 3 bolts then check the cam timing? So on a side note I was watching some yt videos how to go about the timing belt and not skip time when doing head gasket. they said just to mark the belt with the cam and slide it off that it won’t skip so that’s what i did was lied too haha?
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Yeah, lied to, it's easy for it to slip and always best to pull the lower cover and time it by marks on crank gear to oil pump, and cam gear to pointers on the back upper cover, especially when you don't have much experience.
I'm going to guess you are 1 tooth advanced on the cam gear, thats advancing your timing and causing this issue, but I would still recommend starting with the base ignition timing to verify it's out of adjusment range before proceeding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Yeah, lied to, it's easy for it to slip and always best to pull the lower cover and time it by marks on crank gear to oil pump, and cam gear to pointers on the back upper cover, especially when you don't have much experience.
I'm going to guess you are 1 tooth advanced on the cam gear, thats advancing your timing and causing this issue, but I would still recommend starting with the base ignition timing to verify it's out of adjusment range before proceeding.
Will do thank you very much. Gun should be in tomorrow. And it does make sense but one thing that’s tripping me up is why it would start acting up after 70miles and then why it’s been starting to surge less and less every time I work on it.

Will do thank you very much. Gun should be in tomorrow. And it does make sense but one thing that’s tripping me up is why it would start acting up after 70miles and then why it’s been starting to surge less and less every time I work on it.
I do also feel that it’s low on power and it always sounds like it’s about to die after I rev it.
 

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Might have jumped a tooth after the hg replacement, once a timing belt is stretched they get sketchy and sometimes things go wrong trying to reuse them, if this is indeed the case we have been heading down the proverbial rabbit hole and fixing minor things that aren't the root cause, not to worry though, just means it will run sweeter when it's finally fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Might have jumped a tooth after the hg replacement, once a timing belt is stretched they get sketchy and sometimes things go wrong trying to reuse them, if this is indeed the case we have been heading down the proverbial rabbit hole and fixing minor things that aren't the root cause, not to worry though, just means it will run sweeter when it's finally fixed.
Hopefully how do I change the timing belt. Isn’t it right up against the wheel well. Can I change it with out having to do anything dramatic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Update I checked ignition timing and I couldn’t get it lined up. When I spun the distributor one way the mark will go over to the left and when I slowly started turning it the other way it would come close then jump Past the Mark and land on the right
 

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The timing belt is an easier job than the head gasket, so if it comes to that you should be ok if you find a walk through here, read through it, then watch a few YouTube videos where they dont take shortcuts.
Can you get pictures of the marks you are looking at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
The timing belt is an easier job than the head gasket, so if it comes to that you should be ok if you find a walk through here, read through it, then watch a few YouTube videos where they dont take shortcuts.
Can you get pictures of the marks you are looking at?
sure i can try tomorrow. but for a detailed explanation so with the dizzy dead on the middle theres like a white mark and it shows up to the left of what looks like an iron sight and it doesnt always show in one spot it fluxuates between like 1/8th" gap on the left of the iron sights and then if i move the dizzy clockwise it goes alittle more left and if i move the dizzy counter clock it gets close to center and then i reach a certan point where it jumps to the right side and i cant ever get it lined up and the mark is never in one spot its always like jumping between an 1/8th" gap. like its in one spot and then jumps an 1/8 and jumps back to the same spot and repeat. sorry i couldnt describe it better haha ill try to get a pic tomorrow. also my guess is an 1/8th" it could be smaller
 

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So look a it when set to 0, then set it to 14 adv or -14 and see if it lines up with a different set of marks, that jumping around could be ignition misses, a slack timing belt, idle walking around, or a few other things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
So look a it when set to 0, then set it to 14 adv or -14 and see if it lines up with a different set of marks, that jumping around could be ignition misses, a slack timing belt, idle walking around, or a few other things.
What do you mean by other marks I only see the one white one. Also should I be trying to mess with the dizzy while I’m doing 14 and -14
 

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There is a TDC mark and a series of 3 notches at the 10 o clock position when the pointer and the TDC notch line up, when the light is set to -14 the pointer should line up with the TDC notch when the light flashes, when its set to 0 the pointer should line up in that 3 notch area when the light flashes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
There is a TDC mark and a series of 3 notches at the 10 o clock position when the pointer and the TDC notch line up, when the light is set to -14 the pointer should line up with the TDC notch when the light flashes, when its set to 0 the pointer should line up in that 3 notch area when the light flashes.
So if it’s set to 0 it won’t read correctly. I have to set it to -14 for it to tell me if it’s timed correctly. And I don’t think I could see the 3 notches when I was timing at 0
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
There is a TDC mark and a series of 3 notches at the 10 o clock position when the pointer and the TDC notch line up, when the light is set to -14 the pointer should line up with the TDC notch when the light flashes, when its set to 0 the pointer should line up in that 3 notch area when the light flashes.
So I can’t put it to - 14 it doesn’t let me do negative but at 14 I was able to line TDC up by turning the distributor all the way clockwise. And when I put it back to 0 it lines up with the very left mark of the 3 red ones

Update I checked time and everything seems to line up. Which honestly sucks I thought I was going to be able to fix it today.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Tread Mode of transport

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Update
I pinched the pcv again and it stopped surging
 

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Has the throttle stop screw on the bottom of the tb, the little allen/jamb nut combo been tampered with? Or possible the throttle are itself is bent?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Has the throttle stop screw on the bottom of the tb, the little allen/jamb nut combo been tampered with? Or possible the throttle are itself is bent?
Update
I don’t know if it has been messed with. I didn’t. I got a Honda gasket for the throttle body and I sprayed some carb cleaner down the purge valve hose and pcv hose and started it up it kinda wanted to surge but it hasn’t surged yet I’ll keep u updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Update
Car was running perfect I thought it was fixed. Then the CEL came on. Says p0505. The car isn’t really surging anymore. It’s more like a fast heart beat. Could it be the timing for ignition. I have it set on the red mark but then every time I check it’s differnt idk if I’m doing it wrong or not. But the distributor is turned as far clockwise as it will go. I give up
 

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yes. yank and replace the o-ring. its a vacuum source......
 
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