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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Depends on the scanner you are using, mine generally reads them a tiny bit high, like 4-5.5% but looking at voltage instead of % it shows correct, the important thing is it not fluctuate too much between engine off and engine on.
Update
I put jb weld on the crack on the manifold and no change i checked battery charge at surge stayed between 14.4-.6
and then checked the ac voltage with the red cable in the fuse box and - terminal on battery and reads .36-.47

Update. When I cover the IACV HOLE surging stops. When I cover the other hole next to it surging stops. When I cover both car dies after like 5 second

Also how do I go about checking vacuum lines there’s only the vacuum which line and the pcv line right? And when disconnect the line to the vacuum switch it has suction and the search changes but when I disconnect the output side of the switch there’s no vacuum do I have a bad vacuum switch? This was done while hot when car is surging
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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Brake booster, pcv, fuel pressure regulator, evap canister, Purge solenoid. the Purge solenoid only runs at specific times so no vacuum at the other end of it means it's working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Tps sensor reads .49v when closed and 4.62v WOT I’ve checked the brake booster but just unplugging from the manifold and when I covered the hole it still surges. Idk how to get to the pcv hose while the intake is on. How do I check the fuel pressure the skinny hose? On top of it. And how do I check the vapor canister. Is the pic I sent the vapor canister
Automotive tire Light Wood Plant Bicycle part


Here’s a video of the car. Don’t mind the loud noise it’s the throw out bearing haha

Update when I pinch the pcv valve hose closed the surging stops. I’ve tried it multiple times and I’m sure it’s the pcv valve and I was pinching near the pcv valve it self but I don’t get it it’s brand new I just changed it a weekago and when I changed the ITM I check to see if the ball Inside would move around. And it did maybe a cracked line but I pinched near the pcv. I’m gonna pull my hair out at this point. I need the car by tomorrow for work also which doesn’t help

And why only when hot?
 

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did you install the pvc the wrong way?
 

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The cheap ones from autozone or whatever are sometimes not great and don't regulate well causing this issue, or may have been runover with a pallet jack and be cracked or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The cheap ones from autozone or whatever are sometimes not great and don't regulate well causing this issue, or may have been runover with a pallet jack and be cracked or something.
I just got one from oreillys wish me luck

Update
Car still surges. But less consistently and when I rev the car when the rpm comes down the engine almost dies
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
The cheap ones from autozone or whatever are sometimes not great and don't regulate well causing this issue, or may have been runover with a pallet jack and be cracked or something.
I replaced the pcv and even the hose and it still surges. And if I try to pinch that hose to the pcv. It still surges. I’m going to try to reset ecu but I don’t think it will work since I’ve already erased codes and everything.
 

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Have you checked the idle screw o-ring? After that do the idle relearn, warm the car up, shut it off, pull iacv plug, start it, use idle screw to get idle at 550, check base ignition timing, adjust if needed, re adjust idle screw to 550, shut it down pull battery cables for 15 minutes, reconnect iacv and battery cables and restart, then just let it idle for 20 minutes or so.
 

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How do I check base ignition timing.
With an inductive timing light, warm the car, shut it off, short the check connector above the carpet in the passenger footwell under the side of the dash, loosen the 3 dist bolts 1/2 turn, start the car and point the light at the timing marks on the front cover, should line up with the middle mark on the pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
With an inductive timing light, warm the car, shut it off, short the check connector above the carpet in the passenger footwell under the side of the dash, loosen the 3 dist bolts 1/2 turn, start the car and point the light at the timing marks on the front cover, should line up with the middle mark on the pulley.
I’ll give this a try tomorrow possibly I’ll keep you guys updated
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
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The idle is super high and I was wondering what the spark adv is supposed to be

Have you checked the idle screw o-ring? After that do the idle relearn, warm the car up, shut it off, pull iacv plug, start it, use idle screw to get idle at 550, check base ignition timing, adjust if needed, re adjust idle screw to 550, shut it down pull battery cables for 15 minutes, reconnect iacv and battery cables and restart, then just let it idle for 20 minutes or so.
With the idle screw I can’t get the car to go lower then1000 with the IACV plugged in and I can’t get the idle to go down past 1200 with it unplugged

I was able to mess with the idle screw to minimize the surging but it’s still there way better then before so I feel like I’m close but I can’t figure it out. Help me please. I’ll check the timing once I buy a timing gun
 

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The advance it shows there is what the ecu is attempting to achieve, for that to be accurate you need to set the base ignition timing at the distributor with the check connector in the passenger footwell, timing will vary based on iat, ect, map, and tps input when the Check connector isn't jumped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
The advance it shows there is what the ecu is attempting to achieve, for that to be accurate you need to set the base ignition timing at the distributor with the check connector in the passenger footwell, timing will vary based on iat, ect, map, and tps input when the Check connector isn't jumped.
I’ll have to do some research on that check connecter I never heard of that and couldn’t find it.

I’ll have to do some research on that check connecter I never heard of that and couldn’t find it.
Or how do jump it
 

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Its right above the carpet in front of the passenger side door jamb, under the glovebox, a 2 pin connector, might be blue or green, I find my trusty paperclips to be perfect for jumping it, though any small GA wire stripped back and twisted to a point on both ends works as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Its right above the carpet in front of the passenger side door jamb, under the glovebox, a 2 pin connector, might be blue or green, I find my trusty paperclips to be perfect for jumping it, though any small GA wire stripped back and twisted to a point on both ends works as well.
Thanks dude. I really appreciate all your help I’ll try it tomorrow when I pick up a timing gun also any idea on why I can’t get my idle lower the 1200 with the Iacv unplugged. Maybe vacuum leak still. Should I try like a diy smoke machine?

Dumb question why do I have the jump it again haha I was reading your old meag but didn’t see
 

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Jumping that check connector tells the ecu to lock timing adjustments so it runs at base timing allowing you to adjust it to the proper base setting, which I think is 14° advanced for the y7, but generally the middle mark on the set of 3 to the left of the TDC mark on the pulley is where it's supposed to be set, the outer marks denote 2° either side of the set point.
Your idle may be high still from still having a vacuum leak, or it could be because the timing is too far off advanced and it can't cut air flow enough or back ignition timing off far enough to regulate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Jumping that check connector tells the ecu to lock timing adjustments so it runs at base timing allowing you to adjust it to the proper base setting, which I think is 14° advanced for the y7, but generally the middle mark on the set of 3 to the left of the TDC mark on the pulley is where it's supposed to be set, the outer marks denote 2° either side of the set point.
Your idle may be high still from still having a vacuum leak, or it could be because the timing is too far off advanced and it can't cut air flow enough or back ignition timing off far enough to regulate.
[/QUOTE
So check the marks on cam and crank to see if engine is timed and the light gun will tell me if the ignition is timed?
 

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Start by checking the ignition timing with the gun first, no reason to freak yourself out worrying about cam timing unless the ignition timing is out of adjustment range, then I might suspect a skipped belt, but not yet.
 
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