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Formerly weebeastie
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1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Hahahaha, now that's funny Slo!

Went back down to the shop, to do one more test. Fired it up. Little bastard wants to run. Pull the oil cap, thinking with 40psi, there's going to be a crap ton of blow by and internal pressure. It will hardly spit oil out of the valve cover. Methinks we have a burnt valve Jim. Cackle, nothing out of the normal on internal pressure, but dang that clutch is slipping badly. And on 3 cylinders. Sheesh......

I think I have enough pieces to put together a ZC, except maybe a perfect head. I might have one though. Thinking if I had to go deeper than valves, then I'm just building a ZC. Strange part is, this head looks minty fresh, like it just came from the machine shop. So that's weird that it would have a burnt valve, but coupled with all of the lean conditions and the PM8 (hf), it could have actually run that lean to burn one. I suppose I'll yank it to see. Pretty worthless on three cylinders anyhow.

I have thoughts to just go ahead and put a bottom end together and it could have the disco potato off of the wagon once its modified and rebuilt. And you're gonna love the modifications to that. 5/5 blade Xona type turbine and compressor wheels going in it.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Maybe i missed it, but have you checked the lash?
Yeah it was in one of those threads. First thing I did after finding no compression was let it sit over night and then pull the valve cover and check valve lash. Some were a little loose. I was hoping to find one super tight one, etc. Odd part is, the head looks like it freshly came from a machine shop. Its super clean.

I think I'll pull the head this afternoon and see whats going on in there. So updates to ensue. Fix it, build a ZC and go with it, CSS a ZC and really go with it.......who knows........
 

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Registered
93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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1,332 Posts
Wouldn't be the first time I saw a bent valve straight from a machine shop, some people don't realize that there are always at least 2 sets of valves open no matter where the cam is and lay it face down for transport.
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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2,480 Posts
So, you know how you occasionally have a little grudge against a particular engine and you just don't like them. Not like a Chrysler 2.7 or the Ford 2.9 or GM's Quad 4. I mean like, you like Honda, but not so much a y7, y8, or b7. So that's been me. I wouldn't really want to own one of those engines for a few reasons, and the CRX is proving my dislike.
hater,,, quad4 and 2.4twincam holy headgaskets batman and the crackhead 2.3 non-issue ...but shit did they love boost..if
forged internals of course ..
but honestly any same for same d16 build would destroy that gm shit..haha even junkytown D vs everything is the shit gm the D would annihilate that GeneralMistake.

I got some long rod h-beams here for it when you slap some vitaras in and pop a z6 head on that bitch7...
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Wouldn't be the first time I saw a bent valve straight from a machine shop, some people don't realize that there are always at least 2 sets of valves open no matter where the cam is and lay it face down for transport.

Truth!



I'm resisting the allure of the bitch7. She just talks back and cackles a little too much
 

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1989 CRX HF
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103 Posts
The B7 is fun for what it is in regard to the lower end torque. I still have mine sitting in the garage. Was going to build it into a go-kart for the sand dunes in Cali, but moved up to WA and it just sits there.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
So I pulled the head this afternoon. Found so much more. Just so very much more............hahahaha........riddle me this:

Motor vehicle Gas Automotive air manifold Auto part Automotive fuel system


Why would these 5 head bolts have 14 mm heads on them, and the other 5 have 13mm heads on them. As in I used a 14mm socket to remove these 5 and a 13 for the others. I know why, but do you?

Cylinders look fairly good, and pistons are solid in the bore.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Headgear Automotive wheel system


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Font Auto part Circle


Found this beauty.........

Hand Automotive tire Leg Human body Gesture



Let me know when you see it......

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive engine gasket Automotive wheel system Gas



Parts on the way, hope to slam it back together tomorrow morning and see if there's anything to be done for this janky clutch, and this double 5th gear transmission lol
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·
hahaha, Bones, good eye. But not from DPFI. It was from a PM8 Hf ECU running a D15b7, with obd1 injectors, with a resistor box still connected, and a MAP sensor that wasn't hooked to vacuum, a crimped shut fuel return line, crap fuel pump, and no Oxygen sensor at all, so yeah.......... To say she had issues is a gross understatement. I don't even know how it actually ran when I loaded it on the trailer. Both of the exhaust valves in that cylinder are getting replaced. The other has some issues around the edge showing that it will likely burn in the future. Replacements are available and cheapish per valve, so I sprung for both.


And yeah, one eyed bandit on the starter.........so yeah......
 

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Sloppy Jalopy
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2,480 Posts
Canada... gotta love her.

At least weed is legal, so you can always burn one down when your feeling depressed about how cheap parts are in the US...
I don't live in canada..

yeah legal whatever that means ....all they did was create a system for lawyer type fuck heads to make bank on it ..
and make up fines for the little guy just trying to feed himself ...

wtfever
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,946 Posts
hahaha, Bones, good eye. But not from DPFI. It was from a PM8 Hf ECU running a D15b7, with obd1 injectors, with a resistor box still connected, and a MAP sensor that wasn't hooked to vacuum, a crimped shut fuel return line, crap fuel pump, and no Oxygen sensor at all, so yeah.......... To say she had issues is a gross understatement. I don't even know how it actually ran when I loaded it on the trailer. Both of the exhaust valves in that cylinder are getting replaced. The other has some issues around the edge showing that it will likely burn in the future. Replacements are available and cheapish per valve, so I sprung for both.


And yeah, one eyed bandit on the starter.........so yeah......
Fowee mentioned he's been swamped and hasn't gotten any pictures of parts lately.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #98 ·
So here's a rough update. And when I say rough, I mean the car is running the best it's ever run. Meaning, I could actually drive it up the street. BTW, the Hf trans is definitely for the salt flats. You literally could do a 5 - 2 downshift at 55 mph. Feels like a double overdrive, mainly because it is. Now that rant is over, I'll continue on with the escapades of the past few days.

So I got 2 new exhaust valves, head gasket etc., lapped in the valves, cleaned it all up and put back together. Fire it up. high idle at 2k rpms (cackle in exhaust is gone). Then I got into diagnosing why it burnt a valve. I had assumed it was because of the PM8 Hf ECU that was in there looking for Hf injectors and that tiny intake, or the fact that it had OBD1 injectors in it with the resistor box still hooked up, or that someone had twisted the injector wires together and just electrical taped them. (Apparently this was whoever's idea of "good wiring", more to come on that). So I replace the injectors with a known good stock set I had in the box, runs a little better throttling it, but still high idle. I stick my finger in the throttle body and idle comes down when I cover the upper hole indicating that I have an IACV problem. I pull it, clean it, high idle. Set FITV and clean it. High idle. Remove IACV a second time, notice that it looks like a Philips screwdriver has been jammed in it at some point, decide to replace it even though it moves/clicks. Wondered if shaft might be bent inside. So I score a throttle body and IACV from a b7 out of a Del Sol at the local salvage yard. Clean them up, install them, and notice something as I'm replacing the IACV. The hose that is supposed to go to it from the back side of the water pump is actually going to the nipple in the same water pipe right behind the thermostat. So hose goes from right behind water pump to right behind T-stat. Creating a coolant loop. I had been wondering why the fans wouldn't kick on, yet it was heating a bit. Thermostat couldn't come open because of the coolant loop. Went to the manual, found the proper routing, rerouted coolant lines, replaced IACV and throttle body with the del sol parts, and after much bleeding of air, idle finally came down. Yay! Fans came on. Yay! Thermostat opened. Yay! Go to drive car, it jerks/surges. Go through my list of things. Scratch head, think, perhaps a new set of plugs will help things. New NGK wires went on, and a spare distributor went on that was from an Si. Still jerked. So I walk through the diagnostic tree. Not very helpful at this point because I'm pretty close to the end of it lol. So I pull plugs and notice that number one is much whiter than the others. Pull vacuum line to Fuel Pressure Regulator. Only catch a slight whiff of fuel, decide that improper fuel pressure will definitely cause the jerking/surging feeling I'm getting, pull off the return line, no fuel. Think ok. Pull regulator hot, boiling/bubbling fuel inside. Put on spare regulator from a ZC, and boom. NO jerking/surging.

Moved on to getting my tail lights working. Checked all the bulbs, they were good, then started back probing and found that I had continuity to ground on several of my power feed wires. So I pull all the rear plastics and start pulling loom off of wire. Trace from tail lights all the way to fuse box. Nothing skinned, crimped, smashed, or otherwise looking janky. Scratch head. Put a 20 amp circuit breaker in the fuse box. Turn lights on, and dash starts smoking, a lot! Turn off lights, yank fuse, disconnect battery tear into dash. The instrument cluster, and rear running lights are on the same circuit. Smoke came from temp control area. I pull the center dash and find that some jack ass had left the dimmer wire for the radio just sitting there all willy nilly style and it was grounding on the radio cage. So literally that wire only gets voltage when you turn on the headlights and the light comes on for the instrument cluster. I snip it, tape it, move on. Fuse now works, I have working tail lights. Had to reloom everything and the put interior back in. I was so deep at this point I decided to check something else.

Fuel gauge was a solid inop the entire time I've had the car. Since I had rear interior out I pulled up the sending unit to test to see if I could make the gauge work. Had this happen on a wagon I bought one time. Guy thought he blew the engine. Gauge said it had a 1/4 tank of fuel, but the sender was stuck. It was out of gas. I bought it cheap, after diagnosing it, poured in some fuel, had it running great in no time. ANYWAY, so I pull up the sender, move the arm, nothing. Pull out the multimeter again and check for voltage at the sender. Nothing. Backprobe the next connector and I have voltage. Trace the foot or so of wire between the two, pull loom, and guess what I find? Another lump of electrical tape, and wires that had been twisted together and taped. Pulled them apart, no connection on positive side whatsoever, strip them, butt connect because I was tired and the soldering iron would've pissed me off in the car, taped up my butt connector to seal out moisture, hook it up, and Yay! Fuel gauge works.

So I took it on its maiden voyage this morning in stages. First stage was to the gas station. Gave it some love with 93 non ethanol fuel, then drove to grab some breakfast, then decided to drive it out to my parents farm, all in all about 40 miles of driving. Temp gauge moved a few times, not ever passed a half, but it did move. Specifically when I was cruising at 55 in 5th gear at 1800 rpms. I know, Hf trans weirdness. Temp gauge would move a bit, and then if I'd down shift, it would be fine. So weird, but I think it was air bubbles because the more I drove it, the better it got. Checked coolant afterwards and hadn't really taken much. Just a bit from the reservoir.

All that to say this. The average CRX is not worth the $4-5k that they are bringing right now. Too many jackasses have owned them and done janky stuff like has been to this one. Which still doesn't have a name yet. It's getting closer to being name worthy. I'll like it better once I finish out the suspension/steering stuff and then put a ZC down in it so it has some power.

These cars just aren't worth what people are getting for them. If I was paying a shop to fix all of the things that I have fixed on this car, I'd be deep in debt at this point. I've heard of several stories of people buying CRX's lately, trying to drive them home and blowing them up on the way because the car was an absolute turd and they got caught like a deer in the bright lights of "its so pretty" and "I've always wanted one, take my money". All well and good, but you just don't know what you're getting into until you do.
 
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