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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
So because its been hot this week, I decided to burn a little midnight oil and go ahead and swap on the suspension parts and front brakes. So it got the BFO coil overs, Truhart front lowers (rear lowers were already on it), new lower ball joints, different spindles (that are now matching lol), Raybestos brake rotors, and Hawk HPS brake pads. So once the brakes are bled again, it actually should stop pretty dang well for an Hf car. Wagon loves those pads, so I'm hoping this goes well.

So here we go, out with the old and in with the new:

Cylinder Gas Font Nickel Automotive lighting


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Don't look bad in car.

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They call it the Carolina Sqwuaaaaaaahhhtttt...........

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Wow! What a freakin difference. Sheesh. It's like a mullet or something. I can't look away..........ahhhh!!!!!!!


A little loctite to keep the shock and top hat happy. Then I set the preload at 1/4". They specify 7mm-10mm. They were a tight 10mm when I backed off, so I set to 1/4" like I normally do.

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I think that's the same one. Maybe a different one, or I was a sixteenth off. Either way. On to installing them and then the rotors and brakes. New Axles went in today too.

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Just fell in half when I pulled it out. Actually came out in 2 pieces.

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I found all the cotter pins. There weren't any because the A holes literally just jammed a socket on and hit it with an impact. Every single one of them was this way. I had to get a punch and tap them out. Every where that should have a cotter pin, looked like this after I removed the nut. Well, all except this one. Drivers ball joint:

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
And how about this Si pad on an Si caliper trying to stop on an HF rotor. How many miles did it go to look like this?!??!?!?!

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She's a beaut Clark.............wow. just wow.


Then on to the final product up front:

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I was stoked. Even the little brake line bracket holder thingy mabob actually worked as well. I was pleasantly surprised. Lots of change and new/different parts went on tonight.

Hopefully more coming tomorrow.


Oh yeah, forgot the after shot. Through a level on the top of the car and on the rocker panel as well as the bumpers. She's level. About 1.5" gap in back, and 2" gap in the front. We shall see how it settles.

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Taking a break now because it's so warm out. Pulled the tank down to start in on the fuel pump.......

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And what did I find in the tank..........

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A newer fuel pump............. So I thought to myself, either this is a crap Airtex pump (which it is) or there might be other issues. There were.....

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The ground wire on this pump was just twisted together and had some ratty looking electric tape on it. But that wasn't all I found. What would jack up fuel pressure??

How about a crimped return line on the sender.....

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Got it all back together and put back up in the car. Cut off the crimp, used some 5/16" Gates fuel line to fix it.

Also, the plug was leaking a bit, so while I had the tank down I pulled the plug and replaced the washer.

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Next, once it cools off this afternoon just a bit, I'll install the new dedicated relay for the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
So once the fuel pump was installed in the tank, and it all buttoned back up, I took a break because it was so stinking hot out. Once I cooled off a bit, watched A Fistful of Dollars on TV, and a few minutes of For a Few Dollars More, I headed back to install the Relay. I ran my power wire directly to the battery with its own 30 amp inline fuse. I also ran the ground for the relay directly to battery ground instead of to the body. Here's the diagram I use to do these relays.
Font Parallel Schematic Technology Engineering


You're probably thinking, why in the heck would you run a separate relay for the fuel pump. Well, most older Honda's suffer from break downs in the wiring, in grounding, etc, and you don't get 12vdc/battery voltage at the pump as it was designed to. By running a dedicated relay I can be sure that the "Walbro" 255lph fuel pump is getting a full 12vdc. I say "Walbro", cause I think I got a knock off. Anyhow, I ran a wire to the pump, and one to the old fuel pump wire to use it as the trigger wire (which does not require 12vdc). I put the relay just under the dash on the passenger side, right beside the barometric pressure sensor, so it would be out of the way.

Used a harnessed sourced at Oreilly's and a relay from NAPA. Ended up using butt connectors, and then hit them with some heat shrink. I tried soldering them to start and it was so stinking hot I gave up on that fairly quickly lol.

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Used the ends in the box (the plastic is heat shrink) for the connections at the battery.

And to finish up the day, I changed out the speedo cluster so I can have a tach now, which also amazingly had 108k on it lol.

And then I put in the new to me tail lights that also came in today.

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It's starting to come together.
 

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93 4d lx, z6,ported, port matched, compression bumped, balanced, manual swap
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You have your work cut out for you good sir, but the pay off at the end will be well worth it. I forsee another few rounds of fixing shody shyt in your future, glad it found someone willing to fix it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
You have your work cut out for you good sir, but the pay off at the end will be well worth it. I forsee another few rounds of fixing shody shyt in your future, glad it found someone willing to fix it right.
Oh I found more when I was under the dash putting the relay in its spot. The temp control gave up the ghost. So instead of pulling the cables, these assholes just cut them. I'm looking under the dash at two cut cables that lead off into oblivion. One is for the heater valve, and the other is for the defrost/dash door. Thinking this year, I might have to go vice grip heater control x2. One for the heater valve and one for the blend door. I'll be the actuator lol. Then I just have to hot rod up a switch for the fan. Or acquire a temp control that actually has all of the cables. Sheesh!

Seats still have to be figured, but I'm going to try to jump on that tomorrow. Talon hooked me up with some seats to use for now. I found an old set of EK seats that I forgot I was going to use for wagon (from 6-7 years ago), but they looked trashy. Seats he brought me will look minty once I get them down in there.

Almost ready for tags and insurance and some cruising. Every turd on the planet is going to want to race.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
The OEM fuel pump circuit runs the same relay styled circuit. Rockauto sell OEM replacement fuel pump relays if you're having issues with the OEM relay becoming temperamental.

What're you using as a trigger?
I normally use the original fuel pump wire to trigger because it only needs a very minimal amount of voltage to trigger the relay, but the relay sends dedicated battery voltage. Many of our cars in the US have wiring that has degraded over time. So it's not only the main relay that can have issue, its the supply voltage. Especially cars that have either been in a very humid climate or that have had someone work on them that did not know what they were doing and tried to power their stereo or something with the fuel pump wire, etc. Looking for keyed 12vdc. People are stupid.

Anyhow, when you run a bigger pump, they need dedicated voltage that is not going to drop because of everything else going on in the car. i.e. radio, headlights, other electrical accessories. ELD does not effect my fuel pump now because it can't. I'm wired directly to battery with its own dedicated 30 amp fuse.
 
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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
So now on to today's progress.

Talon donated a good pair of EG seats, and so I just had to figure out how to build brackets to adapt them to the mounts in car. Ended up working pretty well. Only had to add one through bolt right by the seat belt on each side. Built flat adapters for the fronts, and used square tube for the rear outer bolts.

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Cleaned up the bolt, and then welded it onto some flat stock, then ground the head down so it would sit flush.

Wood Line Gas Font Engineering


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Wood Line Automotive tire Screw Gas


Boxed these in so they wouldn't think about collapsing one day.

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Drivers front.

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Rear with the block adapter.

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And the through bolt.

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And lastly they don't look too bad in there. Sit a little high, but compared to nothing, they are amazing!

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Proceeded this evening because I wasn't completely worn out from all of the seat fun from earlier today, and all of the fuel pump and suspension/brake work from yesterday and Friday night, I decided to refurbish the shift linkage bushing. I was already at Lowes to get those last Seat bolts and washers, so I bought the bushings, and proceeded to do the Lowes DIY to the CRX.

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No more slop now. It was bad bad too.
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
So, you know how you occasionally have a little grudge against a particular engine and you just don't like them. Not like a Chrysler 2.7 or the Ford 2.9 or GM's Quad 4. I mean like, you like Honda, but not so much a y7, y8, or b7. So that's been me. I wouldn't really want to own one of those engines for a few reasons, and the CRX is proving my dislike.


Drove the car up the street.

First impressions? New suspension is great. Brakes are great. Ride is pretty great. Trans is super wide ratio Hf. Engine.........d15b7........ Won't idle below 2k no matter what I do. When the IACV takes over it just cuts off. So I did a compression test. 190, 165, 75, 125. Add oil to all cylinders. 190 185 45 160. Plug for #3 is black. Adjusted all valves to .007"/.009" Exhaust has a cackle to it, and it smokes when you rev it. Pull spark plug 3 while running, and nothing changes at all. Pull the others and it'll bog. Check for spark with spark tester, she has good spark going to the plug.

If there was no cackle, I'd just say rings plain and simple. The cackle makes me think perhaps a burnt exhaust valve. But here's the quandary. I just bought the car and made several other expenditures of late and I have zero plan to rebuild a d15b7. If I pulled the head and found a burnt exhaust valve, I'd be out buying an exhaust valve and a head gasket and some coolant. However. Even on 3 cylinders it overpowers the "new clutch" that someone put in it which is super annoying. The rode with it adjusted improperly or its installed improperly. Either way, it has multiple issues and I'm sitting at a crossroads because I'd like for it to be running, so I can drive it. I'm about to relegate it to the other side of the shop and focus on the wagon again hahaha.


So thoughts?

Pull down the b7 and possibly fix with an exhaust valve and head gasket?

Say to hell with the b7, start building a DOHC ZC to go in it. Maybe put some H beams in it and some coated skirt cast pistons, and then later put my old gt28rs turbo from the wagon on it (once its rebuilt).


I have to weight out expense and what will not upset the applecart in my household. If it were solely up to me Jeff at CSS would already have a ZC block in hand doing that process to it and boring it 75.5mm, and I'd be prepping a trans to go in it with a locker. But life, but money, etc etc.

?
 

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No d16 bottom ends laying around with decent enough bores to do a quick rering? That little extra torque of the small valve head, b7 intake, and d16 bottom end makes the wider gears of the hf less of a pain to drive. Plus hitting on all 4 cylinders helps too, lol. So long as the guides aren't cooked on #3 you should be good for a while, possibly a long while.
 
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