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Discussion Starter #1
I am confused. I have read thread after thread of good information, but some contradicts itself. I have a 99 EX Coupe with a D16Y8. I have DC header and an Injen CAI and nology wires. I want to add an AEM fuel rail, walpro fuel pump, Skunk 2 IM and a 68mm throttle body and AEM true power pullys. (I need the AC in florida, plus I am lazy so thats where the ps comes in)

I have read that the OEM shit from honda regarding the fuel rail and IM are good enough and are more or less a waste of money, which is it? A good investment that will give me more power or a wast?

I am not going internal as of now, so no head work or block work. N/A all motor.
 

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sell yoru wires and go back to ngk stockers... the fuel rail and fuel pump are a waste of money unless your boosted with a ton of horsepower, get a blox intake instead of skunk.. basically the same but blox is cheaper, 68mm throttle body wont make any power.. get an oem bseries one.. more than enough for you...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What kind of HP can I expect with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That sucks!!!!!!!!!!! Is there anything else you can recommend? Oh, the cat is gone and I have a magnaflow 2.25"exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I looked there, that is where i gathered all of the contridicting info. For right now can you think of any worth while bolt on things or mods I can do to pep this fucker up a bit. I am going to do the motor up right when the reat of the car is done. It is just slow now.
 

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I'd say a cam/springs/retainer package, a Skunk2/Edelbrock IM and some tuning is probably what you are looking for.
 

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D-Series Post Be-itch... gimme gimme gimme
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It's contradicting because it is all opinion. The only thing to trust is dyno graphs.

I would ditch the fuel rail, wires, under-drive pulleys, fuel pump, intake manifold.

Get an SMS header, Stage 2 crower cam, chip an ECU and tune.

That is about as good as you are going to get with staying NA.

Piece of advice, when possible stay OEM. One of the fastest (maybe even the fastest) d-series motors had a stock dizzy and fuel rail. Honda knows what they are doing. :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Whats up man, glad you joined the conversation. I have read that even the port and polish, three angle valve job and blueprinting the head are pointless cause those japs have thier shit pretty well spot on.

So in short, bolt on=waste of money.

OK, I guess I'm going internal. If I'm not back in five minets, wait five more.
 

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Im Bringing TSEXY Back!
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^^ Guy just listen to everything Jimmyb34 just told you. Bolt on's are not a waste of money! First thing you should do when getting you're ride besides suspension (JMOP) is a good I/H/E combo. Then if you plan on stying NA which you stated you where. Go out and get youre'self a stage 2 camshaft and cam gear etc, etc, now go get a tune with some dyno time. Problem solved. Still want more speed time for a turbo. P:S just throwing in a camshaft and internals is not going to maximize you're engines hp/tq without those waste of time bolt on's.
 

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D-Series Post Be-itch... gimme gimme gimme
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lol... :werd: Don't get me wrong, for race applications, a wildly ported head does wonders. The problem with that is most of us aren't looking for 175 WHP N/A. We are looking for a DD with more oomph.

The swirl effect caused by the design of the intake ports and the CC on a y8 = more midrange. If anything, clean up the ports of any casting flaws and that's it.

The best bang for your buck NA mod is a cam. Good news is that if you don't go stage 3 (which requires high compression), replacing a cam is relatively easy. Practically bolt in.
 

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Im Bringing TSEXY Back!
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It took me and my buddy (who is a meachanic) an hour and a half to throw a camshaft in with a camgear. Both are first time doing it. It was pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys. If I have anymore unintelligent questions I will post them. Just bare with me on this. I have alot of money tied up in my car and still more going in. I guess the reason for my confusion is I am not really sure what AI want to do. I am making this harder than it should be. After all a motor is a motor is a motor, these are just smaller with much tighter tolerances and what not.

I guess I will just look for anoth d series motor and put it on a stand and go from there.
 

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Im Bringing TSEXY Back!
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O'K I'm confused. You just asked how you could make you're engine quicker. You said in you're first thread you all ready have a CAI and a header, Throw some money into a new exhaust and a camshaft and cam gear. With good tuning you could pull anywhere from 130 to 140 whp. That's pretty good in a honda SOHC. If you really want more power you're wasting money pulling you're motor for another SOHC. If that is the case go DOHC or spend money on a turbo and call it a day.
 

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D-Series Post Be-itch... gimme gimme gimme
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Not unintelligent at all. Unintelligent = y0! wat c4m shud i put 1n mi c4r, y0?

Just figure out what you want to do and do it. If you don't like it, sell the parts and do something different. :TU:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I do have the CAI and Exhaust on my car now. I was just thinking about getting another D or (B) series and put it on a stand and build it up right.
The problem is, my car will never see the track. I am toten around about 450 lbs worth of audio stuff. I just want fun to drive and the oooh ahhhh factor when I pop the hood. Nuttin but chrome.

Shit I dont know, I need some copenhagen........I am going to crawl into the fetal position in the corner and suck my thumb for a min. I might even piss my pants.
 

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The Great Weldini
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i would add to what jimmy said. we understand what you want to do. inturn it a very simple way of upgrading, but at time it can fustrating when everyone has different opinions. so i think i should make it in a simple was to understand, not that they didn't explain it.

header (4-2-1 give a but kick in the low and mids, a 4-1 give it in the mids and top)
exaust (2.3"-2.5" great for N/A and 3" turbo application.)
port and polish(a mild pnp you will see some power instant, turbo well it force induce not really needed)
Intake manni*(z6 is perfect for n/a or turbo straight longer runners for flow)
Throttle body(a B-motor 60mm is perfect for the z6 but you must portmatch the im to the tb in order to make great use of it)
cam(a stage 2 is always a great upgrade from stock and there are tons of info on this and other cams)
pistons(bumping the compression works for n/a not for turbo and for running turbo stronger rods and pistons helps)
ECU(tuning, chipping etc will help w/all the small mods you done to run very proper)
fuel rails, fuel pump, injectors, etc(stock are good fo N/A unless your doing turbo then you need to do research)

* on the intake manni when you buy a sk2 im, the postside is 62mm. sk2 don't sell a 62mm tb they only have a 60mm, 65mm and up. only BBK makes a 62mm unless you find a type R throttle body and have fun finding one. many ppl send their tb to maxbore to match to the sk2 im. but why when a 60mm is perfect and you don't get hp you get throttle response. most of all if your going bigger than that you want to make sure you head, cam and all the extra mods can take the extra air cause if not you will make the car run like shit than better.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I will bow down and pay omage. That is a pretty straight foreward write up, and a great place to start.
So not to regergitate what you said but
-Z6 IM as opposed to s skink2 or Blox and B series TB
-Stage 2 cam
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How about the ECM-no chips worth a shit available, right. Can I have it reprogramed at a local shop.
 
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