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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I'm asking for help. Surprise surprise. This is on my 95 2dr. The drivers side window won't roll down.


-the passenger side window rolls down but only with the passenger side window switch.
-tested both fuse locations on the main relay for continuity. Both have continuity.
-I tested the passenger side switch connector for continuity. It has it.
-tested the drivers side switch connector for continuity. It DOES NOT have it.

There's probably something I'm forgetting to check. I only attempt to fix this every 3 months or so. I forget what I've done. I can't find my helms manual and can't seem to find a diagram that I can understand. Any help would be cool.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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checked both fuses? check the wiring in the door jamb? take door panel off and check to see if its plugged in?
 

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It could be a bad switch or it could be a broken wire inberween the door and chassis. The motor could all so be bad. You can test it by unplugging the motor plug and taking two pieces of wire one ground and one 12 VoLTS and touch to the terminals in the motor plug. It doesn't matter which is which. If nothing happens switch the wires. After switching the wires and nothing happens motor is bad.

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Motor is brand new, one tested switches from other cars with working windows just to make sure. Sorry, I forgot to mention those.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is l plugged in but it is filled with that grease.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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I think its either a fuse, bad wire in the door jamb, or the thing isn't plugged in lol.

test to see if youre getting power at the motor, at the plug into the switch, and then at the door itself
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think its either a fuse, bad wire in the door jamb, or the thing isn't plugged in lol.

test to see if youre getting power at the motor, at the plug into the switch, and then at the door itself
I got no power at motor. I couldn't get the test light probe into the connectors at the door. I'll try to figure that one out.

2jzdreamin, I'm broke and only have 2ft of wire. I'll have to wait until next week but then I'll try wiring it straight to the battery.
 

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Any wire will work and you only need enough to go from the under dash fuse box to the motor plug and a piece to ground.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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you said your driver side switch wont roll the passenger side down? if you passenger has power, that means the ground is good, and its plugged into the driver side plug that also plugs into the fuse box, so that leaves the door jamb plug or the door wiring


I may have another door wire harness laying around that has the power mirrors cut off. if you figure out that's the issue, its yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any wire will work and you only need enough to go from the under dash fuse box to the motor plug and a piece to ground.
Gotcha. I think i have enough to get that done.





you said your driver side switch wont roll the passenger side down? if you passenger has power, that means the ground is good, and its plugged into the driver side plug that also plugs into the fuse box, so that leaves the door jamb plug or the door wiring


I may have another door wire harness laying around that has the power mirrors cut off. if you figure out that's the issue, its yours.
Correct, the drivers side switch will not roll the passenger side down. I think you may be right about the door wiring. I'm not sure if it's that junction or not. I'm gonna try to take the door off of the hinges tomorrow morning to make it easier. I can't test that wiring junction.
 

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Yea it's most likely a broken wire or two in the door plug between the door and body. It's a pain to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yea it's most likely a broken wire or two in the door plug between the door and body. It's a pain to find.
I'll pull the car into the garage as soon as I'm done at my daughter's house. I couldn't really see how to separate the connectors at the junction.
 

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I'll pull the car into the garage as soon as I'm done at my daughter's house. I couldn't really see how to separate the connectors at the junction.
It's a pain in the ass. There a release tab you push down but can't remember if the whole plug has to come out of the door first or not. Taking the fender should make it easier to see and get to it.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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youre going to hate this, but I had to reach into the door itself and finagle them apart from the inside.
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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It's a pain in the ass. There a release tab you push down but can't remember if the whole plug has to come out of the door first or not. Taking the fender should make it easier to see and get to it.
On 96-00 the tab is on the top in the middle but without pulling the boot back I find it damn near impossible to press the little tab. Just grab the rubber boot and lift up to get it off the little nipples and do the same on the bottom then pull the rubber back.

There is a video on YouTube on how to repin these connectors, I think if you search c556 or c557 connector you will find it, these are the 96-00 specific (not sure if 92-95 used the same plug but it should be a similar procedure.

My advice, go to the junkyard and steal like 5 of these door plugs with at least six inches of wire. A lot of times they break right at the crimp so the only way to fix it is pulling the pin and get another from another connector with some wire attached then soldering together and heat shrink.

PS I'm glad to see my photo help g so many people out on the internet :TU:
 

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Classic Man
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First check all ALL fuses.


I would try to power the motor manually with jumper wires, with the connector disconnected.

If the window regulator motor works I would try to bypass the switch and jump the wires to see if I can get the motor to work with the control circuit. If it works the switch is bad. If the master switch is bad the window usually wont work.

If the control circuit wiring wont allow you to control the motor operation, I would inspect the wiring for integrity. Usually it fails in the door jamb or from a bad mechanic not routing the wires correctly and them getting pulled on by the window going down.
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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Chris, you can fix the CRV after this is you want too, DS window motor likely burned out....
new motor/reg assembly from rockauto for like $37.xx

just did the GF's CRV DS window today, the gearbox had so much backlash from wear you can hear the teeth slamming when you change directions with the assembly outside the door
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think you guys are right. I'm gonna have to take the fender off to test the one side of that junction. I've tried all weekend and this week to unplug that fucker. No luck yet.

I could pull the boot back pretty far but couldn't see all of the wires to see if any were disconnected. I'll pick up some wire on Friday so I can test the window motor too. I would be pissed if it was faulty from the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I decided to jump back into this after the weather got nicer.

What I have discovered so far.

-Window motor is bad. I jumped it and couldn't get it to go up or down.

-tested both sides at the fuse box for voltage. No voltage on either side.

-tested both sides at the fuse box for continuity. Both had continuity.

-tested all the connections in the driver door just in case. Nothing has voltage or continuity except the speaker and tweeter.
 
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