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Discussion Starter #1
So I've had this D16Y7 motor for like 3 years now and I got it from a bone stock 4-door civic lx that was in my local junkyard. It drives fine and never gives me problems but I pulled the motor recently and decided to service the water pump & timing belt while it was out.

So I'm used to B-series but I assumed the process is generally the same with D-series just one less cam lol













 

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And? I dont see what the issue is. Its called jumping time, and its why Honda has replacement intervals. However, thats a bit far for it to not have smashed all the valves.

Anywho... -> some has been in there before you. How do I know, you ask?? The t-belt is backwards from factory build spec. From the front of the engine, you should be able to read "Honda" and its part numbers. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Jesus Christ I've been running this motor for so long like this... even boosted it in 2012.. I even traveled to NYC with it and overheated it on the FDR in a traffic jam. It doesn't even smoke or anything.. Honda motors are strange they can run on even the worse conditions


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Discussion Starter #9
Hummm......

Also your missing the crank sensor unless you unbolted it.

But that is very weird for it to run being off like that.

Yeah, I removed it. Wasn't needed in my 94 integra.

I was just reading threads where people jumped timing and the motor never contacted anything. They also didn't notice and kept running their motors for years...


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Yeah, I removed it. Wasn't needed in my 94 integra.

I was just reading threads where people jumped timing and the motor never contacted anything. They also didn't notice and kept running their motors for years...


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I had a del sol with a d15b7 motor.
The cam gear tooth broke on my way home. I was on the side of the road cranking it a few times.
Got it tow to the house and took the cam off. Fix it and redid the timing and it all started right up and ran fine.

So yea some times they dont touch. most piston have the valve relief anyways.

And id time it and then do a leak down. If you hear it coming out the exhaust or intake then you know you need a rebuild.
 

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Jumped a tooth, will still run but not that great compared to being on time.
Looks like more then 1 tooth to me. More like 2 or 3.

I was just reading threads where people jumped timing and the motor never contacted anything. They also didn't notice and kept running their motors for years...
Though its an interference engine, the moment of interference is deceiving. Usually one tooth, adv or ret, will result in only slight changes most wouldnt notice.

If the car over heated, I am willing to bet the head lifted. Could explain some of the mechanical timing issue. A lifted head could result in a tooth off, if the belt is very old and stretched. I have seen this only ONCE before, 10 year old belt and a popped HG, but it was only one tooth off (at the cam gear v crank cog tdc).

d16s are timed with the lower arrow, not the two lines parallel to the head.
You sure about that?

Edit: attachments straight from the honda tech repair website

Edit 2: I realize its for a 01 (d17), but its the same for the d16. Just easier for the snip tool to show with the later version since Honda actually had digital versions by that time. Not scanned old manuals like for the d16. Trust its the same timing marks.



 

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Discussion Starter #14
hmm... kinda makes me think now about the whole head lift thing...

I boosted my car after the NYC overheating and I always noticed my coolant would always act like it had air in the system. I'd always get stupid amounts of bubbly water dumping into the overflow.

the cap would always have crazy amounts of pressure also... so I took the turbo off and just thought my motor needed a new water pump.


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Head lifted.

Edit: Since its a MLS HG design, the head can lift and still have ok seal under normal use. If you beat on it, it "might" get a bit of coolant burn off (white smoke). But from what I have learned, a slight head lift will not give you heavy white smoke. Say if it lifted in a sub-section between cylinders (say 2 and 3 or 2 and 1). But the resulting weak area will still give you the signs of a blow HG. Bubbles in the coolant, yet coolant doesnt go down. Or erratic temp gauge actions during heavy load/stop & go. Or maybe even a mis-fire code.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I discovered some new information...

So the distributor that I ran on this motor was from a D16Z6 VTEC TD-42U

I ran it with vice grips holding it on for a little while and then I used the OBD2 D16Y7 non-VTEC Distributor housing and install all the guts from the D16Z6.

After I read this thread I think I may have been running the distributor 180° out...

http://www.d-series.org/forums/general-tech/70869-dizzy-distributor-td41u-vs-td42u-non-vtec-vs-vtec-myth-busted.html





because I installed that z6/y7 hybrid distributor on a replacement D16Y7 engine that has a new pump/belt and is correctly timed mechanically..

now I keep burning through ignitors...

 

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I was that far off when I did not take the slack off the belt correctly when I did my timing after I had it off.

I set my upper marks first, then ran the belt around the lower harmonic pulley.

Let the tensioner down with the bolt a little loose.

Tightened the belt with out putting pressure on the belt except the pulley it self.

Then I hand turn the motor 6-9 full cycles and let the tensioner out and back in to remove any left over slack.

Until I did those steps correctly I was off the same amount as you, in the same fashion. If this isn't it, then you have an incorrect part somewhere, since it ran fine before I suggest finding tdc and resetting your mechanical timing using the above steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the thing is I never touched the timing at all so I think running my distributor off 180 degrees for 2 years on a daily basis might have contributed to it jumping timing....

vtec and non-vtec dizzy are apparently setup differently...


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I worked on a 94 Accord a few years ago, C/S had auto transmission replaced along with the distributor. After getting it back from the shop the D4 light was on while in any gear and acceleration was very poor.

I didn't ask too many questions on why the perverse shop didn't find and fix the problem. I knew right away the D4 light was simply a auto trans MIL light so I double checked the harness plugs on the trans, found them all to be slightly unplugged. Clicked them in and the D4 light went away but still had poor acceleration. While test driving it I noticed the exhaust tunnel was very hot. Pulled over and looked under the car, the cat was RED hot. Took it back to the shop and started to do a vacuum test. While hooking up the gauge I noticed the spark plugs wires didn't seem to neat.

When the shop half assed the repair they installed the wires 180* off, and the car started and drove! Just real shitty lol.

The cat needed replaced but everything else was good




This started and ran, a very short distance but it ran lol
 

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Dang, D16's are the ak47's of engines if left stock and maintained.
 
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