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So I got my 99 ek coupe with hr front sportline springs installed but the rears were not due to snapped bolts so i guess he decided to leave the stock springs in smh.. Anyway i put them in about 3 days ago with all bolts fixes and what not. Now the rear sits way lower than the front! Its like an inch difference.. (Shocks are all good) anyone else have this problem??
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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you sure theyre the right springs front and back? sure they haven't settled yet.
 

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Yeah they are def right and fronts have been on for months .. I even pulled them off to make sure front were good .. Dont know why the rears right away sat so low
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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have you done any reading on them at all? I see that it is a common issue. others say to let it settle. some say its an optical illusion and if you measure fenders they should all be the same. also how did you determine which were fronts and which were rears?
 

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springs are swapped. Chance they are fake HR springs and the markings are flipped around front and back.

true HR have a slight rake, front lower than rear.

Also possible springs were cut, or simply not even HR springs, but jsut painted letters
 

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they might be legit H&R Sport springs, but for a different car. What are the part numbers painted on them?
 

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SCCA F Prod CRX Si
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they could just look like they are lower due to the front wheel wells being larger than the rears for turning clearance.
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
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Eibach = Sportline, no idea what you have.
I was thinking the same thing. And my sportlines lowered the rear more than the front. Red springs with Eibach on the spring.
 

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94 Integra
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Some MFG's use a different spring rate & length for EK/EG/DC. Eibach for instance uses 310/275 for Civic's and 325/241 for Integras. I have Civic-spec on both my Civic & Integra, and the Integra front sits much lower using Civic-spec springs. You may have an Integra-spec spring kit. H&R Sport kits are offered for both Civic & Integra and have different spring rates & heights from each other.

Another possibility is they didn't tighten the front bolts at the proper right height. If they tighten the suspension bolts while the suspension is at full extension (car in the air), the rubber bushings will pre-load the suspension & jack it up a bit.

Another thing that can add ~1/2" up front is by not lining the front shocks up to the forks properly. There are points in the shocks that fit into the slot in the fork. For my Integra I purposely mis-aligned this to increase height & travel in the front.
 

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For what it is worth, if you jack the vehicle all the way up, crank the bolts/nuts loose and retighten, the first time it goes for a drive it sits where it needs too.

the bushings will NOT suspend it. It will a little bit until the car goes through a decent bump or acceleration or braking force.
 

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SCCA F Prod CRX Si
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For what it is worth, if you jack the vehicle all the way up, crank the bolts/nuts loose and retighten, the first time it goes for a drive it sits where it needs too.

the bushings will NOT suspend it. It will a little bit until the car goes through a decent bump or acceleration or braking force.
Sorry but no. If it did the bushings would have to slip metal to metal which would mean it was loose.

The proper way to do what I think you meant is to loosen all the bushing bolts, drive/roll slowly to settle suspension then tighten under weight of vehicle. This usually requires a four post lift like an alignment rack.

You can also do this but loosening the bolts and placing a jack under the suspension, lifting to ride height and tightening in place. This is 95% of what I described above.
 

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Sorry but no. If it did the bushings would have to slip metal to metal which would mean it was loose.

The proper way to do what I think you meant is to loosen all the bushing bolts, drive/roll slowly to settle suspension then tighten under weight of vehicle. This usually requires a four post lift like an alignment rack.

You can also do this but loosening the bolts and placing a jack under the suspension, lifting to ride height and tightening in place. This is 95% of what I described above.
so the hundreds of control arms, trailing arms, shocks, struts, etc.. I have TORQUED with a torque wrench were all magical?

My boss even called me out on the question and asked me to recheck torque on a few because I too once thought ride height was necessary for final torque.

torque was always the same. its a false theory. Dealerships dont even have this step in the books.
 

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SCCA F Prod CRX Si
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I'm not sure what your talking about but yes, you didn't do it the best you could have. You can simply measure the same car with each process to see the difference in ride height. I'd recommend a new car so the bushings aren't worn out.
 

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SCCA F Prod CRX Si
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For what it is worth, if you jack the vehicle all the way up, crank the bolts/nuts loose and retighten.
If you meant jack the suspension all the way up that is basically the same as what I said above. The car will lift weight off the jack stand/lift for that corner when it reaches ride height (1g).
 

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My current boss is one of those "prove me wrong" types.

When I started there, one of teh first things he had me do is suspension, and he saw me one day with car on ground, me squeezing under to do a final torque on bolts.

That was the day we did a measuring tape test, torqued in air versus torqued on ground.

After 5-10 miles of driving over normal roads, both measurements were within 1/16 inch of each other. a margin of error by most standards.


The final thought I have on this is, it speeds up customer car services. because I dont have to squeeze under the car to do final torques on suspension bits, I can usually get one or two extra cars done per day.



On a personal note, I never have done torque on teh ground on my personal vehicles. I always previously did it solely on other peoples cars, for the sake of potential issues.


Im not an expert. Im also not here to say your experiences were right or wrong.
 
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