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Discussion Starter #1
Hi. I'm new here. I have a 2000 civic ex 5 speed d16y8 (130,500 miles) that i bought last summer. recently the car started misfiring badly and then would only start and die. I replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the fuel rail/injectors. the injector screens were completely clogged up.

after i fixed that the car started right up and i have been driving it since.
The car runs fine, but it hesitates above 3-4k rpms until vtec kicks in. (it did hesitate during vtec once, felt like a fuel cut).

how bad does my fuel tank look? i'm going to most likely drain it tomorrow. and i will possibly be picking up a fuel pump from the junk yard or just buy one online. I am also looking on ebay at some gas tanks for ~$120.

Should i stop driving the car? Is it more likely that the pump is failing or is the tank really that bad? i'm picking up a spare d16y8 tomorrow that i will be swapping in, and rebuilding my current engine. in the picture the gas is a lot dirtier where the fuel pump strainer sits. is there a reason for that?

also. car has new wires, plugs, dizzy looked new and clean on the inside. car starts right up with few cranks. it does burn oil pretty bad. it idles fine but smokes in high rpm sometimes. i replaced the cat with a straight pipe, (cat was most likely clogged from burning oil and running rich) and since then you can see it smoking pretty bad during idle. Thanks in advance.
 

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92dx-turbo 92cx-pimp
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holy balls man thats bad lol. try RockAuto for a gastank if your not getting one directly from a local dealer, or junkyard that magically might have one not destroyed.
that looks like corrosion from the fill area or somewhere along the lines of bad old gas mixed with water, your fuel pump should look almost somewhat new and you should not have any corrosion inside there, my guess could be a hole somewhere in the tank. once you drop that gastank im sure you will find the culprit. someone could have f-ed with the car at somepoint also. but yeah man i suggest all new filters fuel pump and gastank thats bad. maybe seafoam the engine down too who knows how bad it is as well. blow out your fuel lines too what you can do is after you drop the tank get some cheap gas and a 5 gallon bucket and wrap the existing fuel unit in a bag and pull the intank filter off and run that bucket of gas through it to the filter in the bay disconnected to pour out into another bucket. the injectors could have issues too i suggest replacing them with a set from a junkyard set as well im sure the duty-cycles are bad.

best of luck to the fix
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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Definitely agree. New tank, filters, pump.
Also, if it's smoking bad, burning oil could be part of your hesitation too. Look at the plugs, do a compression test to get somewhat of an idea if rings could be bad. Either rings or calculator seals.
yeah, they can be a total bitch seal up. texas instruments should have them for ya
 

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Yes. I would replace it all. Very easy to do and not very expensive. Could upgrade the pump now if you plan on making more power later.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies. Lol calculator seals, wtf I'm confused.

I ordered a new fuel pump/hanger and a gas tank. I probably need to order a new filler neck, as mine is missing the little valve. That could be part of the problem. The car did sit for a period of time in the past as well.

I have the spare engine now, and I'm thinking i'll just fix the fuel system and run the current engine for awhile. It will be easier to rebuild the engine that is already out anyways.

I let the car sit for a few days then drove it to work today. I have been babying the engine, but it seems to slowly be running smoother. There is Seafoam working its way through the tank atm too. I will definitely replace the fuel filter again after changing the tank. I'm going to put the injectors and FPR from the other engine in my car too.

It didnt seem to smoke much today. Mostly when i first took off driving it smoked a bit until it warmed up. Not so much at start up but it could still be valve seals.

The picture of the spark plug is the #2 plug that is usually covered in oil. I just changed the plugs like 50-75 miles before when i was diagnosing the problem.

How does that engine look for 150k? Is that a normal amount of build up on the pistons and head? I saw it running the day before they pulled it out. Thanks again to everyone.
 

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damn that tank is a hot mess, i would get a new tank and blow the lines out real good.

motor looks to be in good shape, the pistons arent even that carboned up. you can see the quench pads on the pistons/head doing there jobs.

calculator seals lol.
 

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Definitely agree. New tank, filters, pump.
Also, if it's smoking bad, burning oil could be part of your hesitation too. Look at the plugs, do a compression test to get somewhat of an idea if rings could be bad. Either rings or calculator seals.
yeah, they can be a total bitch seal up. texas instruments should have them for ya
*valve
Fixed
 

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Discussion Starter #11
back at it

Sorry for not posting. I was really sick for about a week. I finally was able to work on my car the last few days.

I managed to change the gas tank, fuel pump with assembly, and fuel filter (again). The gas tank wasn't really that hard to take out/put in. I've learned to take my time and be patient. I also swapped the fuel injectors off the other engine, the screens on them were clean. I was going to change the FPR, but the other one didn't fit (just need to get a longer return hose) but I did switch the rubber o-ring.

The fuel filter I took out was dirty from the short time it was in. I blew the fuel lines out - picture below. When I changed the injectors, the rail and everything looked clean still. I didn't blow out the evap line since I was unable to remove the line at the tank end. Should I have done that?

I got everything put back together and put some gas in the tank. Primed the fuel pump a few times and it started.

It still smokes, mostly in v-tec, though I did a few pulls later and it didn't smoke.

did a comp test:
C1 - 155
C2 - 185
C3 - 200
C4 - 195

Is that a big enough of a difference to warrant problems? C1 is 30 below the next lowest cylinder. The car still is sputtering around 3-5k RPMs. It feels like partial throttle makes the hesitation worse.

Just replaced my exhaust with a full Tsudo cat-back. Looked identical to the other exhaust but mine was no name. So I have another resonator instead of a test pipe. It's a decent amount quieter, I feel like less of an ass hole now. :1eye: The picture of the gas tank is before I changed exhaust's. The hanger to the right of the picture wasn't hung properly, so the exhaust sat low.

I made a video on Youtube to show the sputtering, here's the link.


/watch?v=HtlxTByvlJU

Maybe the hesitation has something to do with Vtec?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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do a leak down to see where the problem is
 

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So I did a leak down test on the first cylinder. There was air escaping from the oil filler cap and the oil dipstick tube.

Is that all rings or could it be valves too since air was coming out the valve cover?

I didn't bother checking the other cylinders since I pretty much knew thats where air would come out. Car had blow by in those two spots. One weird thing is cylinder 2 used to be the lower compressed cylinder, but 1 is lower now. I did run MMO for a bit in the oil and gas.

I bought ARP head studs so I can put the other engine back together. I'm going to buy an engine hoist tomorrow and start ripping the engine out to put in the spare. the current engine is pretty shot. Are Fel-Pro Head gaskets decent? or should i go OEM?

I swapped out the upstream Denso O2 with a newish Bosch I had. The Bosch was previously in the car, but it made my car run like shit for a bit after i first started it. (would bog really bad past 3k rpms) The Bosch still had the same symptoms, so I put the Denso back in. I also put some gasket sealer on my donut gasket since it was leaking a bit.

Wish me luck. I am a beginner at all of this stuff, but I am very interested in mechanical work. I will definitely have a friend or two to help.

Thanks for the replies and info.
 

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The donut gaskets are cheap and easy to replace if yours is leaking. I have used felpro gaskets but much more reliability out of the oem as long as the rest is put together correctly. i may have missed it but what are the plans with the car?

Also have you checked the fuel filter, maybe an issue why its bogging down when it needs more fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just put a decent amount of gasket sealer around the donut gasket, as it wasn't leaking too bad.

The plan for the car right now is just get it running well. I'm most likely just going to switch the motor out with my spare, since it was healthy. my current engine eats oil like no other. Once the other engine is out, i'll think about what kind of rebuild i want to do.

I did just change the fuel filter when i changed the tank so it should be good. I am going to check it after i go through this tank of gas, to see if there is any crap left in the lines.

My friend and I were changing the shocks, everything went well in the front. Both rear strut bolts that connect to the LCA's are fooked. One broke the other stripped, so we are gonna drill them out. Probably gonna order some LCAs off Ebay. Sucks i'm gonna have to wait for bolts to come in the mail. Oh well..
 

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I got a donut gasket from the parts store for like $6 and no leaking issue at all. As far sputtering, what plugs are you running? Only misses above 3k?

I just did rears on my sedan, and had to cut out a couple bolts. I replaced with some ebay control arms as well as new oem hardware. What shocks and springs did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's been a bit and I have some updates. Car sat for awhile while i waited for parts. I ended up getting ebay lca's and the Eibach sport-system package. One rear strut was blown and the others were probably on their way out since the car was on shitty coilover sleeves. The ride is so much better, like night and day difference. I'm pretty satisfied with the ride height as well. also bought some Si style tail lights as the car had some ricey ass lights before.

While it was sitting, I tried soaking the pistons with MMO by pouring it down the spark plug holes. the MMo drained through cylinder 1 and 2 after awhile but 3 and 4 held the fluid for the most part. I poured more in every few days for about a week. Once i had the car back together i abused my starter some to get the MMO out. I kinda made a mess lol. then changed the oil (not the filter since it was just changed). It started a little rough, and proceeded to smoke A LOT.

I then drove it around for about an hour to get the engine hot. It still smokes some during normal accel and then alot when in high rpms. i'll see in the morning how much oil i've lost in 2 days. I also seem to have a leak around the oil pan gasket area. usually wet with oil around there and kinda on the lower timing belt cover. Definitely a minor leak compared to my burning problem.

The sputtering/hesitation is getting worse it seems. It comes on right around 4k still, but i can feel the car losing power throughout the rpms. sometimes its just a small sputter and other times it completely loses power. WOT still seems to make the issue less prominent. I'm not trying to drive the car hard in this condition as well. the hesitation makes vtec kick like a mother fucker tho haha.

my next move is to fix the exhaust. the ebay header downpipe sits too low and is angled lower than the resonator. I will buy a new donut gasket and try to get it fitted right. If that doesn't work I'll just save a bit and buy a name brand header. Any recommendations that wont brake the bank too much? I also want to get a Vibrant muffler and have the local shop weld it on. The apexi replica is nice and deep at lower rpms but the rasp is bad in the highs. (no cat and 2 resonators).

Could an exhaust leak in the header to cat area be causing the hesitation?

I feel like I damaged something as i kept driving the car when it was misfiring from the rusty fuel tank. before those symptoms the car ran fine surprisingly. had to drive to work. short 10 min drive, and i putted it there lol.

What are the mandatory parts i should replace on the spare engine before i swap it in? Timing belt & tensioner, water pump, oil pump, head gasket, studs, maybe oil pan gasket, vc gasket? I would do a complete rebuild and rebuild head and block, but my current engines situation is looking dire. This car is my daily.

NGK plugs btw (not the expensive ones)
Duralast wires - could not having ngk or oem cause problems?
I will replace dizzy or parts of it next i guess. it looked fine besides maybe the rotor being a little worn.

the car starts every time within 1 to 3 cranks.

Sorry for the Essay haha.
 

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