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Discussion Starter #1
parts needed
-d16 block, I used a y8 because it was free and still 75mm
-d17 crank,rods, pistons the dx/lx pistons give a taaaaad more CR :)
-Rings for a d17 I went NPR
-D16 main bearings I reused the d17 rod bearings

deck the block .030 you can go more but I have pics of what .030 looks like


keep your shit organised shop towel and marker do wonders


gap your rings accordingly If you are staying NA go with stock specs per helms manual, since mine will be boosted eventually I went a little loose at .014 top and .016 bottom

clock the rings accordingly (use endyne ring clocking pic) and throw those bastards in


since I reused everything I kept it organised and cleaned it with carb cleaner


put the bearings in with lube on bottom and on top


crank goes it fallowed by plastigauge then the main gurdle. Oil up the bolts tq all of them to 18ftlbs then to 38ftlbs (I hope the sequence is obvious work from middle outward) remove it and check clearances.

I lucked out and with std bearings (king) they all landed at .0015 :D but anything below .002 is OK if you are touchy about your clearances go with honda OEM bearings all STD, measure with plastigauge, then using the different color bearings dial in the clearance you want
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hope you notched that gurdle! its TIGHT not sure if its needed on all blocks I also always clean up any casting flash to help the oil return to the pan


all done :)



for life

Ill post up the oil pump, rear seal, and crank pulley setup in a bit!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
nice nice.

figure out how much more we can mill off! so i dont have to. :p
ill grab a straight edge and the feelers and see how much room is left below the deck right on the outer edge of the pistons be back in 2 min with the info

I could fit .012 feeler under the edge of the pistons

so .040 is what would be needed to have it flush but since i already have .040 off the head and .030 off the block thats a lot of milling haha
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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very nice im impressed at the detailed write up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks man!

the d17 rear main seal appears to match the d16y8 block perfectly all 4 bolts went in and the dowel pins all lined up how they should


d17 oil pump is the same


when I dropped the block off at the shop like most y8 blocks it came with a free spun bearing mod! so I gave him the y8 crank to use as a template

timing belt gear fits like a glove


crank pulley as well


no i wont be using the light pulley already killed a motor due to using one so a stock a6 is going on or ill have a y8 shaved down....dont know yet what do you guys think?
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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4,639 Posts
shave down ps/ac on the y8 pulley since it has the rubber unlike the a6
 

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How much did the shop charge you to mill down the crank snout?


I'm stacking parts now for a Stroker D17 build.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How much did the shop charge you to mill down the crank snout?


I'm stacking parts now for a Stroker D17 build.
this is what I had done for 140

-the snout resized and yes the TDC marker on the oil pump is still dead on!
-block decked
-crank polished he even knew to spin it coutercloswise :yes:
-another block measured
-another crank polished

so dont really know how much he charged me for each service its L&R machine in clairmont NH Ill post his card and price list in the morning but he is just a one man show and does nice work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah it really is I think I'll get a few builds together and then just have him do the work in bulk since he is about an hour away almost in Vermont :p

I think I'll keep an eye out for another d17 and see if I can get another built just for fun maybe have him enlarge the crank pulley and remove the crank sensor thingies from the d17 timing belt pulley instead of working the crank just to see what works well and is cheapest for other members to do.
 

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I hear the B16 pulley fits the d17 snout and lines up with the d16 alternator, but then you have to use the D17 oil pump(which I also hear is better then the y7/y8 pump but I like the Z6 pump better)
 

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Did u put lube on the bare block? where the bearings go at thats a no no. Great write up tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I hear the B16 pulley fits the d17 snout and lines up with the d16 alternator, but then you have to use the D17 oil pump(which I also hear is better then the y7/y8 pump but I like the Z6 pump better)
I honestly don't know buy the parts build it and find out.


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Discussion Starter #17
Did u put lube on the bare block? where the bearings go at thats a no no. Great write up tho.
I lube everything! Lol why is that a no no?


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Discussion Starter #20
Increases the chance of spinning a bearing.

The tang and bearing crush does most of the work, but having that dry friction there also helps.
Huh so only lube the gurdle side bearings and the end of the rod caps? I'm not getting what you mean sorry.




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