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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, This is mostly tsaken from my build thread here:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/143174-89s1s-build-thread-300whp-bust.html

The kit all shows up in a nice plastic carry case



Goodies await inside.



Took everything out and made it so i could label each piece for this.



1. Block plate (drilling and tapping fixture)
2: Drill/tap guide
3: Block plate Alignment plug
4. Stepped Drill bit with fixed and removable stop collar.
5. Insert tap
6. Insert driver
7. Inserts
8. Driver oil and loctite for insert installation.

Step 1:
What you want to do first is place the plate (1) on the block with the largest hole over the hole to be repaired and use 2 bolts to fasten it, leave the bolts loose for now.



Step 2:

Use the alignment plug (3) to perfectly align the plate over the hole and tighten the bolts.





Step 3:
Remove the alignment plug and insert the drill/tap guide (2) into the hole in the block plate. Step drill the hole to full depth (until the drill bit stop comes into contact with the drill guide.) You may need to remove the drill bit several times during this operation to clear chips/shavings. (only use the removable stop collar on the one shallow hole in the corner of the block.) Be sure to use some sort of cutting oil when drilling/tapping into the block
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Step 4:

Clean the hole. Use some brake cleaner and compressed air to clear the hole of all shavings. It is absolutely crucial to clear the hole of all shavings as the tap nearly bottoms out in the hole. I used a can of brake cleaner and a long blow tip to achieve satisfactory results.







Step 5:

Tap he hole. Be sure to clean the drill/tap guide of shavings before this step as well. Take the supplied tap and use a tapping handle to spin it down into the block (be sure to use a cutting oil of some kind for this step)



You want to tap the 9 typical holes to full depth which means going past that first line scribed in the tap all the way down to the second line. For the one shallow hole, obviously stop at the shallow marker. Line the scribed mark up with the top of the tap guide in the block plate.



Step 6:

Clean the hole again! be sure the hole in clean and dry for this next step, be sure the cleaner you use leaves behind no oily residue.

Step 7:

(remove the block plate entirely for this step)

Installing the insert is the next (and final) step. Take the insert driver out and oil the threads with the supplied oil. Thread an insert onto the driver as far as you can rather easily. The flared part will be at the top.

Use a bit of the supplied loctite and apply it to the bottom few threads on the outside of the insert.



Thread the insert into the freshly tapped and cleaned hole, it will eventually get snug against the lip and the driver will begin to force its way through the insert, as it does this it forces the outside threads of the insert out into the block. When the driver reaches the bottom few incomplete threads on the insert are cold rolled expanding the insert material out into the block, locking it in place. Like with the tap, you want to drive these in until the appropriate line on the driver lines up with the block deck (remember, the block plate is off for this step)

 

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Great write up, almost had to do this myself, but got a machine shop to do heli-coils instead

rep for u
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Awesome. Hope I never have to use this DIY though.
lol true enough

So I posted a thread about this.. thank you for this DIY. If I muck up, I blame you! Ha.
np, hard to mess up if you read the instructions and follow them.

Great write up, almost had to do this myself, but got a machine shop to do heli-coils instead

rep for u
Thanks man... How are the helicoils holding up? what kind of power are you running?

Now that is sexy, well done.

I wish they made such a thing for my stripped valve cover bolt holes.
Thanks man, and i'm sure they do. they have them in all sorts of sizes.

Wish I had this before I sold my sedan....
yeah thats too bad, it works great.
 
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