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DIY Guru
96 Ranger-stock
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How to plug the crank oil galleys

http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/259201-pull-your-balls-properly-clean-your-crank.html

I have spoken out about removing the oil galleys balls in the crank.


So once the balls are out


So all the crud can be removed.


After you have gotten most of the crud out, spray with brake cleaner.

Then use a small brush to scrub the galley.
Then spray some more brake cleaner, and blow out with compressed air.


Next have a new tap, and some sleeve retaining loc-tite

6 bolt cranks use a 5/16 x 18 tap and set screw (3/8 long)
7bolt cranks use a ¼ x 20 tap and set screw (1/2 long)
 

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DIY Guru
96 Ranger-stock
Joined
·
637 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Caution must be used when tapping the crank so you do not snap the tap off in the crank.


Again spray with brake clean and blow out with compressed air.
Apply the green sleeve retaining loc-tite and screw in the set screw.

After tighten the set screws, take a blunted center punch and peen a few spots around the set screw.


This will deform the threads in both the crank and set screw so it cannot vibrate out.
Now you have a crank that you do not have to worry about the crud becoming loose and being carried into the bearings.
 

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DIY Guru
96 Ranger-stock
Joined
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637 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Just curious, but are you planning to rebalance the crank after the cleaning?
Some do and others are not.

Since the set screw is close in weight to the ball it is not mandatory that it is.

I will do this before I do have a rotating assembly balanced tho.
 
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