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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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Brokedick Millionaire
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I use a dial caliper..........

to properly measure a crank and BEARING ID, you need about $250 (that IS the cheap ones!) in gauges.........

Plasticgage is ALOT cheaper.
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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Hmmm, everything I've read say's to use a micrometer. what dial caliper do you rec. ? I'm confussed now?? bearing id? you can just plasti gauge a crank and rods to see if the cranks good?
 

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The Master Fabricator
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I used plastigauge and a Mitutoyo Absolute digimatic caliper. It is accurate to 0.0005 which is good enough for me... If you do use a dial caliper, make sure it's a good one. I cheap one is often accurate to 0.0015 which isn't nearly as good...
Mid range micrometers are accurate to 0.0001-0.0002, but you'd need a few of them (0-1") to measure bearing thickness, 1-2" (or 2-3" I don't remember which one) to measure journal width, and a bore micrometer.

I think the most important precision tools needed to build an engine are a good torque wrench, and a bolt stretch gauge for the rod bolts (if you go aftermarket)
The sleeved should ideally be honed to fit the pistons at a machine shop with a good honing machine such as the sunnen so you make sure you have proper clearances.
 

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my name says Guest, but Im really a MEMBER
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Discussion Starter #5
Bearing thickness? If I use a crank that doesn't need to be turned, don't I just use the stock bearings according to the block and crank/rods. They should be within spec. on the plastigauge, right? Also, bore mic. ? What about a dial bore gauge?
 
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