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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1.Start with the door panel of the door, remove all screws that keep the interior panel tacked to the door.

2.Start by taking out the one screw that holds the power windows button plastic peice and the one screw that holds the interior door handle. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry the window button plastic piece free.



3.Unplug the wire harnesses that are connected to the handle and the power window buttons.


 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
5.Now pull off the bottom right part of the interior panel(if drivers side, otherwise left bottom) and carefully tug it away from the door. This should pop out, carefully go around the bottom of the door and pop out the other retainers up around the right of the door. Leave the top of the door alone until you are sure that you have popped all the retainers around the sides and bottom of the door.
6.Slide the panel diagonally left/up and it should come free.

7.Panel should now have everything removed.

8.Plug the power window buttons back in. You'll need to move the window up or down to get it back on track.

9.Next, loosen the brass bolt near the bottom right side of the door. Should be right next to the speaker hole.

Use your handy dandy rachet with the correct size (I used 13/32 but I didn't have anything smaller). This bolt connects the bottom half of the front (close to the front of the car) track.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
10.Lower your window all the way down, make sure that the window isn't really out of place when it goes down, you may have to help it along by applying pressure so the window slides back into the left track (away from the car) while going down.
11.With the front track loose and the window down, you can now move the bottom of the window back in track by fitting it into the rubber seal in the metal track.


12.Spray the track with the silcon lube at the top and bottom on both sides of the window.

13.Now try to use the power windows buttons to move the window up and down to make sure it is in. You'll know it's not if it gets about a 3rd of the way up and you hear the motor really complaining.
14.If your sure the window is in, do a couple of trys going up and down with the window and re-spraying the track each time to make sure it is really lubricated.
15.Tighten the brass screw at the front and your done!
16.Take off the power window buttons, so you can now reassemble the door, in the reverse order you took it apart.
17.Slide the panel in diagonally toward the car, making sure that the top of the panel goes a little inside the top of the window opening, it should hang if you do it right.
18.Push the retainers back in the holes it lines up with in the door. If the retainer came loose when you took the door apart, just slide it back into "C" clip built into the panel.

19.Plug the lock and power window buttons back in.
20.Put the screws back and put back your speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
1.Remove the plastic weather stripping from the bottom very carefully (if you want to reuse it). There will be some chalk like stuff that is very sticky which you can re-stick the plastic when your through.

2.Using your fingers, put some grease along the track, I'm using WD-40 in the pic but should of used the grease for it to last longer.

3.Push the plastic into the chalky stuff to reseal.

1.If the window seems to pop out even after you lubed it, you may have to do what I did. I found out that the window seemed to want to snug near the outside of the door when it went down, thus popping out of track.

2.Completely unscrew the brass bolt in the front.

3.Take the track off the bolt
4.Put 2 washers on the bolt
5.Put the track back on the bolt from the inside of the door.
6.Screw the nut back on the end of the bolt

This should push the track out to the wall of the door enough so the window will be happy and with regular lubrication from time to time should work.
 

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1988 CRX
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Nice writeup. I'm quite content with my CRX's non-power windows because of the lack of complexity.:)
 

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It looks like you used WD40 not silicone spray thats the only issue I can see. WD40 will get gummy and end up doing more harm than good use only silicone spray.
 

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I no longer haz teh pink eye! Iz got STINK EYE
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till the regulator gets old and its almost impossible to roll em up! lol had to replace both regulators on my crx too!

But good write up man!
same here. my driver side reg went out yesterday lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It looks like you used WD40 not silicone spray thats the only issue I can see. WD40 will get gummy and end up doing more harm than good use only silicone spray.
yup,couple days later the seal got fucked. best to use napa silicone spray. but is all good because i bought a used seal for 10 at the junk yard.
Honestly, I think this is one of the best write-up's I've seen in a LONG time. Nice work man.
nahhhhhh,the best one is my other diy.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/135215-diy-replace-front-hub-bearings.html
 

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Nice write-up. My driver's side window seems to come out about once or twice a year. Next time it does I'll have to try the washer trick, hopefully that fixes it for good.
 

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Window popped out again. Seems to happen when it's cold (and the rubber is stiffer). Put it back together using the washers. Hopefully this will fix it for sure its about to start snowing here!
 

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my driver side window has been messed up for years! i mean i havnt rolled down that window in about 2 years now lol and now my passanger window is out of its track ; (

i realllllllllllllly hope this works ! and yes it does fall off more in the winter then the summer time
 

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Perfect, I'm going to do a customers tonight and mine as well next week, both my pass and drivers have been jammed up for 2 years
 
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