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Discussion Starter #1
I have been readjusting my spark plugs this year already few times at around every 1000km. Actually never heard of anyone doing so often. Is that something common they tend to reach back original gap after this amount of km?

I am running boosted z6 with bkr7e gapped at .025
E85 and Crane Hi6 ignition
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am at ~350hp with low cam lobes right now. So tight because I had problems blowing off spark before.

FarmerD, that's what came into my mind too. Regarding trying different plug, I could give a try next season. These CD ignition boxes can be pain in the @ss with small amount of info available about specific differences they have.
 

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The last thing you want to do it put iridium plugs in there. A quick Google search will tell you why. A good silver plug or copper is the way to go. This hatch I'm tuning right now I'm guessing is close to 300 and I'm at .030 on the gap and it seems to be fine. There was issue at .036 so I tighten it up
 

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Last time I regapped my spark plugs (Iridiums) was because I had a lot of misfires on boost, then I realized my ICM was dying.

Regapping spark plugs will reduce misfires, but that is not a real 100% solution, at least IMO. I'm using 0.036-0.040 gap on turbo engines (D and B series, some Suzuki G13 engines too).
 

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Are you saying the gap's opening out? It shouldn't do, not in 1000km.

A long shot I know, but is there any sign of electrode burning?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, the gap's opening out! That's why I posted, because it didn't seem to me right. No signs of electrode burning, it's just opening out.

I sent e-mail regarding this to Crane Cams to see what they have to say about this.
 

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Classic Man
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The last thing you want to do it put iridium plugs in there. A quick Google search will tell you why.
Care to elaborate?

I would also suggest a copper plug (silver? You run Bosch plugs? yikes :p ) but with his ignition box there is a good chance enhanced electrical erosion is occurring from the spark jumping the air gap. The hardened tip of the Iridium plug will resist that erosion better.


How is running the same plug going to help him not have to adjust his gap every 1000km?
 

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92 cx
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A company named Brisk makes silver plugs, they tend to make more power because silver is the best electrical and thermal conductor of all metals. Copper is mainly used since it's much cheaper about $2.50lb vs $256lb for "paper" silver (which is cheap for silver since there's a shortage in 1-10oz retail products currently). Brisk has claimed their silver plugs made 18whp gains in V8's over copper plugs...me I'll stick with copper since it's cheap and has worked well for decades.
I would only use iridium plugs in a car if i don't feel like changing them ever again since they last longer. Plus iridium is a terrible conductor of electricity.
 

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^^^ this. Iridium also holds heat in longer and is prone to detonation. Sliver and copper dissipate the heat the fastest, so with a boosted motor they are the least likely to be a source of detonation. There are a few companies who make silver plugs but they are pricey.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Crane tech support still haven't responded to my e-mail. Still waiting...
"Funny" thing is there are no signs of ignition systems left on their website. No products, no tech data, nothing whatsoever.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Back to report! Crane customer service didn't sound very helpful to me.

They said I might be running lean, which I am not unless my AFR gauge lies.
They suggested to retune after ignition install, because that would be my problem. But it doesn't make sense, because my AFR is in the same range as with stock ignition.
They suggested to check distributor rotor phasing. Right now I can not check it because I have taken my engine apart. Worth to check ofcourse, but why in the world it would be different than stock.

Unless I haven't checked phasing I can not comment on this much, but they didn't want to respond why Crane ignition units are discontiniued :)
 
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