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Discussion Starter #1
Looking into getting a d16z6 block sleeved for boost, How much is it genarally to get it done. And any place you guys no of that do this and do it for a good price and a good job, bye the way JG is out anyone else
 
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RS Machines if you want to save some money, Benson if you want to spend. Those are the only two I would suggest. Benson is just slightly more, can't go wrong with either one in my opnion. I'm going with RS Machines, awesome customer service and always willing to help. Hope this helps,
Matt
 
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we do sleeving all the time for many D-series enthusiasts. they are $880 for the bore, hone, sleeving, hot tank and deck the block.
 
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unless you plan on making 350-400whp, sleeving is pretty pointless. Stock sleeves are pretty strong, just run high octane gas when you want to turn up the boost. With good pistons and rods you should be able to boost 15-17psi on 93 octane with moderately conservative tuning. Any more you will probably need to remove more timing and ask the turbo to do more of the work. There is nothing wrong with that, but thats what you'll need to do.
 
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I perfer the Golden Eagel sleeves over any others.
Now one thing you havr to realize everyone is this.

Sleeving a block is NOT the only thing required. you must also have the crank journels "line bored" and the block proeprly decked. Then you have to have the Sleeves bored and hones to the correct piston specs. Each cyclinder needs to be mateched to each pinston that is going to go into that cylinder. So even if sleeving costs like $850 including, the rest of the work is about $700-$750 more on top of that.
 
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I had my machien work done, it was $10 per cylinder to bore/hone ($40), $40 for decking, $40 for polished crank and $200 for assembly. $700 is a bit much of an estimate just for machining.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i found one on eaby but it has been sleeved by JG, dont know about that but i bid on it and im winning so far, it has a little bit of rust in the cyclinder walla but the guy re a sured me it whould be taken care of when i get it honed
 
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jake2001z001 said:
i found one on eaby but it has been sleeved by JG, dont know about that but i bid on it and im winning so far, it has a little bit of rust in the cyclinder walla but the guy re a sured me it whould be taken care of when i get it honed
Dude, you are a moron. First of all why would you ever buy a block w/ rust in the cylinder walls? are you fucking retarded? Thats like begging to be scammed. Second of all, you are trying to make 300whp in a fucking Z6. Thats not so damn hard with just some pistons and rods. Get some eagle rods and some CP, Endyn, Arias, JE(not SRP!!!!) or some other brand of pistons at about a 9.0 c/r and fucking tune the damn car. There, done, end of discussion. to sleeve a 300whp car is not only stupid but a waste of money. and what more is a waste of money is trusting some guy that spent money on a block to get it sleeved and it rusted and now is dumping it on a poor sap like you. I know i go out and spend $1000 and then i take such shitty care of it that it becomes ruined.

You seriously have no idea what you are doing with this "big" D series build. I suggest you sit down and figure out if you really are knowledgeable to do this, because from the sound of it, you are lost.

-sincerely an asshole
 
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Bigwig NJ said:
jake2001z001 said:
i found one on eaby but it has been sleeved by JG, dont know about that but i bid on it and im winning so far, it has a little bit of rust in the cyclinder walla but the guy re a sured me it whould be taken care of when i get it honed
Dude, you are a moron. First of all why would you ever buy a block w/ rust in the cylinder walls? are you fucking retarded? Thats like begging to be scammed. Second of all, you are trying to make 300whp in a fucking Z6. Thats not so damn hard with just some pistons and rods. Get some eagle rods and some CP, Endyn, Arias, JE(not SRP!!!!) or some other brand of pistons at about a 9.0 c/r and fucking tune the damn car. There, done, end of discussion. to sleeve a 300whp car is not only stupid but a waste of money. and what more is a waste of money is trusting some guy that spent money on a block to get it sleeved and it rusted and now is dumping it on a poor sap like you. I know i go out and spend $1000 and then i take such shitty care of it that it becomes ruined.

You seriously have no idea what you are doing with this "big" D series build. I suggest you sit down and figure out if you really are knowledgeable to do this, because from the sound of it, you are lost.

-sincerely an asshole
If it's surface rust, it's ok. what you haev to be carefull of is deep rust. Any block can have a slight rust discloring on the cylinders if they haev not been properly oiled. So stop colling people a moron Especially when you make yourself look like a BIG one with your statement.

I would not trust ANYTHING JG. They totally suck in quality and parts.

If you want a shop that only charged $40 to bore/home yor cylinders working on your car, go ahead. I've learned you get exactly what you pa for. I am willing to bet I can take the block they bored/hones and show you it has perfectly straight walls. I would imagine the cylinders are spaced larger in the middle and they are out of round as well. I've yet to see a "budget" shop even with the right tools (the peopel they have workign for then don't know how to run the machines proeprly due to no factory training only in shop on the jopb training) properly bore and hone a block. Those palces re usually mroe accustomed to the older american stuff where the engines were sloppy and had very loose tollerances to begain with.

Again, don't use anything JG unles you like cheap stuff being on your car.
 

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The Master Fabricator
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oscarmayer said:
I perfer the Golden Eagel sleeves over any others.
Now one thing you havr to realize everyone is this.

Sleeving a block is NOT the only thing required. you must also have the crank journels "line bored" and the block proeprly decked. Then you have to have the Sleeves bored and hones to the correct piston specs. Each cyclinder needs to be mateched to each pinston that is going to go into that cylinder. So even if sleeving costs like $850 including, the rest of the work is about $700-$750 more on top of that.
I have an exospeed/rs sleeved 77mm block. the cost on the receipt was $880. The this includes all honing and decking and matching each pistons to a cylinder (pistons were numbered.
As for line boring, it isn't always necessary. I believe that all reputable sleevers check the journals after being finished. Only blocks that need it should be rehoned, as it is a pain to get larger bearings and isn't as good for heat dissipation.

My block turned out perfect!

PS, as far as sleeve quality is concerned, I have both an RS and a GE block in my garge, and they are both very nice designs. GE hase the Brace, and RS has much thicker sleeves...
 
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if they line bore it right, they take some slight off the caps first then line bore it to the stock specs, so you don't end up with larger bore and running oversized bearings.
 

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The Master Fabricator
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oscarmayer said:
if they line bore it right, they take some slight off the caps first then line bore it to the stock specs, so you don't end up with larger bore and running oversized bearings.
If it doesn't NEED to be done, don't do it.

If they take material out (boring), the space needs to be filled by something... You will need larger bearings, or you wont get the right tolerances (remember, we're talking 0.02mm is the service limit).
If you are lucky, you will be able to work with the honda color codes, If not, you will need to go undersized.
This is the same principal as boring cylinders, and when you do this to eliminate ovalization, you always need to oversize the pistons.

Finally, I checked your website. It doesn't show anywhere that you have a sleeved block. What setup are you running and what are your qualifications?
 

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Bigwig NJ said:
jake2001z001 said:
i found one on eaby but it has been sleeved by JG, dont know about that but i bid on it and im winning so far, it has a little bit of rust in the cyclinder walla but the guy re a sured me it whould be taken care of when i get it honed
Dude, you are a moron. First of all why would you ever buy a block w/ rust in the cylinder walls? are you fucking retarded? Thats like begging to be scammed. Second of all, you are trying to make 300whp in a fucking Z6. Thats not so damn hard with just some pistons and rods. Get some eagle rods and some CP, Endyn, Arias, JE(not SRP!!!!) or some other brand of pistons at about a 9.0 c/r and fucking tune the damn car. There, done, end of discussion. to sleeve a 300whp car is not only stupid but a waste of money. and what more is a waste of money is trusting some guy that spent money on a block to get it sleeved and it rusted and now is dumping it on a poor sap like you. I know i go out and spend $1000 and then i take such shitty care of it that it becomes ruined.

You seriously have no idea what you are doing with this "big" D series build. I suggest you sit down and figure out if you really are knowledgeable to do this, because from the sound of it, you are lost.

-sincerely an asshole
looks like we got another asshole here :roll: another good reason to sleeve is if your gonna go 1.7........also Javier Guitierez is cool with me, and Oscarmeyer can fuck off.........i have been getting my machine work done at JG for years now. i personally vouche for them. I dont know if its cuzz i can drive there and deal with javier personally, but they have been nothing but professional. so in closing
oscar meyer is again talking about shit he knows nothing about personally.........
 

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pelsise said:
oscarmayer said:
if they line bore it right, they take some slight off the caps first then line bore it to the stock specs, so you don't end up with larger bore and running oversized bearings.
If it doesn't NEED to be done, don't do it.

If they take material out (boring), the space needs to be filled by something... You will need larger bearings, or you wont get the right tolerances (remember, we're talking 0.02mm is the service limit).
If you are lucky, you will be able to work with the honda color codes, If not, you will need to go undersized.
This is the same principal as boring cylinders, and when you do this to eliminate ovalization, you always need to oversize the pistons.

Finally, I checked your website. It doesn't show anywhere that you have a sleeved block. What setup are you running and what are your qualifications?
he apparently has 17 years in the game :roll: he likes to talk about stuff he reads in some magazine.......jump on the anti JG bandwagon.........looser :roll:
 
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