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I was wondering how to go about boring an intake mini, or if it is even possible. I have an extra one so if it takes a long time or if it is risky it wont be too much of a problem since i dont really need it, i just wnated to know some info THANX.
 

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port it, polish it, then have it sand blasted so you get that texture back to it. unless you got some bad ass cuttin bits its better to have polished. all your doin when your polishin is makin everything even an makin it feel good and smooth so you dont have humps your flow is gonna stumble on. i was using bits for cast iron heads on aluminum, you got to polish them then.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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basically you want a rougher surface in the intake ports because it actually causes a lil bit of turbulence to keep the air and fuel mixed.
explain to me WHERE in the intake ports your flowing air AND FUEL?????

This ain't your daddy's 350 Small Block Chebbie.
 

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It's the intake mani

I was wondering how to go about boring an intake mini, or if it is even possible. I have an extra one so if it takes a long time or if it is risky it wont be too much of a problem since i dont really need it, i just wnated to know some info THANX.
Sounds like he's interested in the intake mani runners. I think you'd improve flow by reducing turbulance if you smoothed the intake runners but I wouldn't port them so that they are significantly larger in an N/A application. Polishing will increase velocity while significant porting will slow it. But this statement may not be true if you're using F/I and the intake runners are a known constriction of air flow.

When most people speak of porting IMs usually they are refering to "port matching". This is when you match the size of the openings of the intake runners to the intake ports on the head and also the bore of the TB to the main opening of the IM.
 

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I would just portmatch the IM to the head and call it good if you're already running a nicer IM like a y8 or aftermarket.
 

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I would just portmatch the IM to the head
I wouldn't. You'd remove the anti-reversion step.


OP: Whatever the case, I recommend that you don't touch the intake manifold. Unless you have a specific (and good) reason to port the intake manifold, you'll probably end up screwing it up and losing power.
 

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CR-Vtakin
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I matched mine to my integra ls throttle body using some carbide bits. A friend also dropped a cylinder hone down in his awhile back and that yielded some good results.
 

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I wouldn't. You'd remove the anti-reversion step.


OP: Whatever the case, I recommend that you don't touch the intake manifold. Unless you have a specific (and good) reason to port the intake manifold, you'll probably end up screwing it up and losing power.
I thought that step you're talking about is between the TB and the IM?
 

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I thought that step you're talking about is between the TB and the IM?
There is a step there, but anti-reversion steps can (and should) be placed elsewhere. You can find them between the head and intake runners, head and header primaries, and sometimes even in the valve seat.
 

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either way, you want to sand blast it. you gotta think about what the flows gonna do after movin threw the smooth intake runner, then hittin the rough ports, just my way of doin it. id rather have my air being ready to mix when the fuel does hit in the intake ports. its not just for chevy heads
 
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