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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, Long and short of it:

I have a milled D16Y8 head, on a D15B8 Block, I purchased an adj. Cam gear for the Y8 head so I could adjust it back (Advanced) the 4.75* to compensate for the difference in the D16Y8 and D15B8 Deck-heights. With the cam gear set to that the car will barely idle, backfire, no power. By accident I origionally had the gear set to 5* Retarded, Car ran/idled fine, but was CRAZY loud, and didn't have much power.

I know for every .012 milled I have to retard my timing 1 Degree

here's my problem:

I don't recall how much the head was milled, *I made the mistake of just asking them to basically re-surface it and do the valves etc, and only said not to mill more than .03 off*

Is there any way to be 100% sure where my cam's TDC is in these circumstances?

Its currently set at 2.5 Degrees advanced and still isn't running 100%, Originally I moved it to 4*, was a bit better, then to 2.5* and it felt better, but I know being off by just .5 could have pretty noticeable effects.
 

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I don't recall how much the head was milled, *I made the mistake of just asking them to basically re-surface it and do the valves etc, and only said not to mill more than .03 off*
:slap:

sorry, nothing positive to say other then next time do it right. although i guess you could take it apart and measure it. do you access to a stock head to compare measurements? hopefully someone will jump in here with some demensions for you to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
:slap:

sorry, nothing positive to say other then next time do it right. although i guess you could take it apart and measure it. do you access to a stock head to compare measurements? hopefully someone will jump in here with some demensions for you to use.
I know I made the mistake of not getting those specs from the engine builder :(, I was still learning, and got ahead of myself.

and next time I plan on Dumping a stock B18B1 into this car and calling it a day, I've learned alot from all this, and have enjoyed it.

Just hoping there is a way to not have to peel the head off this thing, next time I peel this motor apart I'm selling the head.

I can't blame you for having nothing positive to say honestly.

I'm thinking when I pull my D, I will put the stock 8 valve head back on it to keep as a spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Then I said the retard incorrectly for the diffrent deck heights

I know it needs to be between 4.75 ADVANCED and 0, I just don't know where.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Discussion Starter #12
u can work it out anyway. u know how much is milled and u can work out how much it is of the circumferance of the cam gear and then how man deg it will be

simple pic
I'm aware of the pic, but if you read my post, I stated that I am un-aware of how much of my head was milled, and Bone stated that the previous information was incorrect anyways.
 

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Does it pull from 2000-->5000rpm and runs out of breathe early?
Does it feel boggy/soft <3000rpm and pulls strong >4000rpm?

Adjust the cam -1 degrees and drive around noting the the feel.
Worse?...then do the other way round this time +2 degrees so you are advancing 1 degree..better still? Go 1 degree further advanced.. etc..

You can use this tune if you ain;t got a dyno, took me a few hours. Simple tools in your car you can adjust it quite quickly. A dyno session should sort out the fine tuning.

Oh don;t forget the ignition timing needs to be adjusted.
If you advanced the cam--> you need to retard the ignition a little
If you retard the cam--> you need to advance the ignition a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Does it pull from 2000-->5000rpm and runs out of breathe early?
Does it feel boggy/soft <3000rpm and pulls strong >4000rpm?

Adjust the cam -1 degrees and drive around noting the the feel.
Worse?...then do the other way round this time +2 degrees so you are advancing 1 degree..better still? Go 1 degree further advanced.. etc..

You can use this tune if you ain;t got a dyno, took me a few hours. Simple tools in your car you can adjust it quite quickly. A dyno session should sort out the fine tuning.

Oh don;t forget the ignition timing needs to be adjusted.
If you advanced the cam--> you need to retard the ignition a little
If you retard the cam--> you need to advance the ignition a little.
right now it feels fairly boggy all around, if I set the cam to 5* RETARDED it has nearly NO power uptop but seems ok downlow, while if I go anything past 5* advanced it has issues idling, bogging down low, but pulls like a raped ape uptop.

I almost suspect I'm still off a cam-tooth? or I need it to be at 5* advanced where it pulls strong uptop but it has issues idling/downlow and adjust my timing?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
damn it dasfinc!

set the cam gear to zero mark on the cam! time the cam as if it was a z6 cam. at that point, the cam will be set at 4.75* advance already!

your y8 cam will make it so you can advance the camshaft 14.75* advance and 5.25* retard.

advance too far, and your valves will tap the pistons. and then you have a paper weight.
I REALLY apologize about all this!

I know if I advance too far I'll roast my head/block, I always give it a full spin before I fire the motor when I'm adjusting the cam gear, but to my understanding I have a full 30* of play (3 teeth) either way before I hit a piston.

If i set the D16Y8 camgear to 0, I'd be at 4.7* advanced already like you had said, but I assume the car would run just fine at 0* unless I'm mistaken, or are you suggesting that I should run my cam timing at 4.75* Advanced? The car would bog downlow, and move good uptop back when I had the stock D16Y8 gear on it.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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You do understand that the timing index is different between the 96-00 and 88-95 cam gears. Matter of fact, like I've posted before, you use the Y7/Y8 cam gear when running a 1.6L cam om a 1.5L block, the 4.75 degress difference corrects the 5mm lower deck height.

So, 1/2 tooth cam error - 1/2 tooth error = ZERO.

For the third AND Final time, set your cam gear at ZERO.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You do understand that the timing index is different between the 96-00 and 88-95 cam gears
.

Yes, its off by the 4.75, so for the D16Y8 cam to be at TDC in relation to the D15B8 block while using an adjustable D16Y8 Cam gear I need to advance it 4.75 so the keyway is aiming to 0* as a D16Z6 cam gear WOULD be, but I am not using a D16Z6 cam gear.

Matter of fact, like I've posted before, you use the Y7/Y8 cam gear when running a 1.6L cam om a 1.5L block, the 4.75 degress difference corrects the 5mm lower deck height.
I understand to use a Y8 cam gear on a A6 cam in a D15 head and D15 block, my setup was origionally a D15B7 head with a D16A6 cam, and Y7 gear on my D15B8 block


So, 1/2 tooth cam error - 1/2 tooth error = ZERO.

For the third AND Final time, set your cam gear at ZERO.
So you are saying because I'm using a 96-00 HEAD,

WITH a 1.6 liter CAM inside of it, it cancels itself out?

When I had the original D16Y8 camgear on the D16y8 head on my block the car was back-firing, stuttering, and had very little power down low under ANY kind of load, but would idle fine and moved out quite well in Vtec above 5000RPM, thats why I am a bit puzzled as to why I should be putting it back to 0* when it wasn't running correctly then.

Again I apologize if I'm being a pain in the ass, but I GREATLY appreciate the help everyone as given me and will be working on it today with all the input.

Honda-tech is utterly worthless and the D-series community in general is fairly small, I hope to have the car running correctly today so I may correct my D16Y8 MiniMe write-up.
 
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