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nonvtak ftw
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5,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am plauged with this god damn CEL. Drove around for 3 days with this one and today on my way home from the wash it popped back on to say hello.
bank 1 sensor 1 slow reading 02???????????????

Im on my 2nd ecu and my 3rd brand new 02... WHAT THE FUCK IS GOING ON!?!?

here is the 02 that i just installed that i thought wouldve fixed the problem. Evidently The problem is somehow not with the o2's yet still giving them the problem??





i dont care what i have to do i just want this light to go away so i can pass inspection already...

For those of you who dont know
98 civic dx
B18B obd1 swap with CKF bypass to run obd2.
( i never get this fucking light running an obd1 ecu )
 

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2,743 Posts
try a defouler in the secondary o2 at the cat

had this problem with my TL, it doesnt necessarily mean that bank one is the problem, bank 2 to could be reading to fast and it will cause bank 1 to not keep up.
 

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nonvtak ftw
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5,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
try a defouler in the secondary o2 at the cat

had this problem with my TL, it doesnt necessarily mean that bank one is the problem, bank 2 to could be reading to fast and it will cause bank 1 to not keep up.
Im glad i left this on in a box then. Had it made a few years ago.
Makes sense. I had a high flow cat installed when i got my swap done.
When i had the y7 i didnt even have a cat. Just an 02 plumbed into a pipe with the non fouler and had no problem.
 

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yeah man, i bought one and drilled it out.. screwed that bad boy in and havent had a light back on in over 3k miles.
 

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nonvtak ftw
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5,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
yeah man, i bought one and drilled it out.. screwed that bad boy in and havent had a light back on in over 3k miles.
alright, well i just put mine in and drove it around at 3k couldnt get it to come back on. ill drive it around for the rest of the week and see what happens.
 

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97 4door EK-T
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475 Posts
Sorry, Just a little thread hacking, Hope ur not mad. I have a CEL 41, I had no continuity in my heater wire. I fixed that but now my CEL came back on for 41 again. Is there any way around that? Am I gonna consume more fuel???
I have a turboed y8 converted to obd1

Sorry again for the thread hacking its just that you're already talking about O2.
 

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nonvtak ftw
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5,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
ok well the non fouler on the secondary didnt fix it:frown:
every time that light comes on i want to take the car and drive it into a ditch.
can my engine not have enough ground. i dont understand even how to trouble shoot this utter pain in my ass.
 

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nonvtak ftw
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5,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
how to fix a slow reading o2????? give it a gift card to hooked on phonics
ahhh funny guy, thought for a moment i was gonna come in here to an answer.


(why do i only get this problem while running obd2)

this problem is honestly almost enough for me to rip out my swap and sell it, start over...
 

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nonvtak ftw
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5,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
this will be my last obd2 honda. if i lived in a state where we had no emissions i wouldnt care but this shit is getting old.

obd1 FTW, everything about obd2 can suck it. ive been trying to fix this problem for a year now. ive had the shits of it really.
 

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nonvtak ftw
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5,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
im really starting to think my problem is from shitty grounds.
my battery is in the trunk and grounded to a bolt next to my right rear shock mount.

my engine only has one cable grounding it and i drive around getting road noise through the radio. im gonna dig into it tomorrow.

anyone else have any ideas?
 

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98 civic ex coupe
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938 Posts
On your B1S1 plug your going to have 4 wires. I usually just use a test light, Make sure you have a good ground so connect the test light to the negative terminal or a good ground and check for power at the battery, then you know you have a good connection, then check the plug with the test light to confirm you have power and ground. The light will come on when you make contact with one of the wires in the plug that is for power, then check for a good ground.

Not always but most of the time when its a bad sensor you will get a PO135 heater circuit failure the slow response makes me think you have other issues make sure you have good power and ground first step
 

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nonvtak ftw
Joined
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5,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
On your B1S1 plug your going to have 4 wires. I usually just use a test light, Make sure you have a good ground so connect the test light to the negative terminal or a good ground and check for power at the battery, then you know you have a good connection, then check the plug with the test light to confirm you have power and ground. The light will come on when you make contact with one of the wires in the plug that is for power, then check for a good ground.

Not always but most of the time when its a bad sensor you will get a PO135 heater circuit failure the slow response makes me think you have other issues make sure you have good power and ground first step
yea, im leaning towards me having ground issues. i know for a fact this sensor is good. its only been in my car for a few days. brand new.

also while the cel was on today on my way home my car did this thing were i was giving it gas but the car was acting like it was shutting off, or not getting gas at all. then jump back to driving normal making it buck because im at half throttle.
 
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