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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 94 hatch, and I would like to a little more clarity and loudness in my sound system.

The previous owner installed two 5.25 alpine type s front speakers and a kenwood deck. It sounds pretty decent, but it distorts at high volumes.

I want a little more "umph" in terms of bass and clarity and loudness and I was wondering if I would be able to get that from hooking up like a 2 channel amp to the speakers?
If so, what range of amps in terms of RMS would power the aplines the best? I believe the type s's are 80w rms?

I was quoted at a car audio shop about 250 for a small Jensen amp, install and wired, but that seems a bit pricey?
 

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You could probably save yourself $100+/- by doing it yourself and buying your parts from Amazon or Best Buy. I wouldn't expect too much out of those speakers though, they just don't have the size to produce good powerful bass. Why not put a powered sub in the back? Best bang for your buck right there...


Just saying
 

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What distorts the whole thing or just the fronts, or do you only have fronts?
 

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He has the same car as me so I presumed he only had fronts....although he may have added rears or have a factory option for rears, didn't even think about that
 

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2005 Legacy GT
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I did it myself, with a little help from a friend with some more experience. It's pretty straight forward. I did a four channel and hooked up the front and rear speakers.

Pretty simple. Run signal from head unit to amp, run signal out to speakers. Figuring out where to tuck the wires is the part that's the real pain.

With a little help from google you should have a good enough idea to get at it.
 

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Theres gotta be wiring for rear speakers already there.. I would check and see, then get rear speakers, a 4 ch amp Or 5 channel and run a small sub.

I have 1 10" and use my speakers off the head unit for mids and highs and its plenty loud w/o distortion.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My hatch has only the 2 front speakers. I have heard that rears will only add some "fill" and that it's better to focus on the two fronts. So would it be best to get a 4 channel amp and power two channels for the fronts and 2 channels for 1 10"? I would like to fit it under my seat so I can keep my room in my hatch.
 

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I started a post on a facebook page and numerous people had told me that the the reason you get distortion is 1 because kenwood decks suck and 2 because speakers with tweaters built in suck at higher volumes. They all told me to get component speakers and get a better stereo. i started my post on fb because i wanted to do away with my amp and sub in the trunk and get clarity and bass out of the stock mounting location speakers.
 

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It distorts due to over powering the little tiny speakers in the door. Also, were you not looking for more fill and less distortion? I put 6x9's in the back of my wife's 98 hatch and a 125w amp from kicker I think. It sounded awesome for what it was and the space we had.

You can pull some tricks with your door if you dont mind a little cut, mine fits a 6.5 up front, with extra size weights. I have a 1/4in spacer to get them far enough out to clear the window, and the cover fits still.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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30-50 wRMS for the front's, deck power to the rears for fill.

Alpine 3522S will fit under the passenger seat, rated 30x2 but runs at 50-55x2 with 14.4 VDC supply, use the built in high pass.

A second 3522S or larger bridged will pump out 175 wRMS into 4 ohm mono, plenty for a 10" sub.

Coaxials can only handle so much, esp. in an unbaffled enclosure. The distrotion you might be hearing could just be the mounting/door panel/window mech just buzzing.

Stock door plate will handle a 6" speaker (based on 5.25" frame) if you cut the basket back out. a TRUE 6.5" will need a 3/4" MDF plate made, yet still fit under the stock door panel and cover.
 

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Is it that big of a spacer? I used the rim of a speaker cover, cut the middle out and seated the speaker inside it, can get pics if needed.
 

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I was mounting a TRUE 6.5" midbass, not some puny 6.5 with a fat magnet. I had 4" and mids in the USD Audio pods....the MDF also help dampen the thin metal resonance.
 

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My hatch has only the 2 front speakers. I have heard that rears will only add some "fill" and that it's better to focus on the two fronts. So would it be best to get a 4 channel amp and power two channels for the fronts and 2 channels for 1 10"? I would like to fit it under my seat so I can keep my room in my hatch.
Don't buy a 4ch hook a sub up to it. Technically yes it will work but you won't be happy with the results.

When you say more "umph", if you mean bass then forget getting that from door speakers. The reason you get that "distorted" sound from your speakers is because you are cranking the volume up, and have the bass setting on your radio somewhere on the (+) side of the 0 setting, am I right? :) Speakers are designed to put out mids and highs, and not the low notes that subs do. People see "BASS" in a radio setting equate that to "SUBWOOFER TYPE BASS" and expect that sound output out of the door speakers. Not even $500 Hertz speakers will do that well simpley because that's not what interior speakers are designed to do. For most people, the power output from a stock deck is more than enough for stock and your average aftermarket speaker but it alllllll comes down to your radio settings.

What I recomend customers with trucks or convertibles where space is a premium is the Alpine KTP-445U. Great small power pack that fits behind the dash, and gives an additional 45 watts. More than enough power for the average user. You can find them pretty cheap used and you can find them from $130-$150 new. Then I would grab a small 2channel or mono amp and run an 8" subwoofer. SonicElectronics seems to have the best selection online, and most of the woofers that are 500watts or less require an enclosure that is barely the size of a shoebox. If you want to get crazy, go for a Sundown X-8, it's a BEAST

:3dtard:
 

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I was mounting a TRUE 6.5" midbass, not some puny 6.5 with a fat magnet. I had 4" and mids in the USD Audio pods....the MDF also help dampen the thin metal resonance.
lol, werd, my doors are pussy, but the PG 6x9s in the rear dash work out pretty well, need to upgrade the doors now that I think of it. MB quarts are from the 90s I swear, here they are now.



Magnet is 1/3 bigger then normal speakers but they are small, but its not the size that counts....oh wait.
 

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I have hearing issues with high freq, esp. above 5-6 kHz in left ear and MBQ's still sound too damn bright!

JBL Neo. Tweets were my preference. Also the JBL co-axials I had in the Civic after I removed the 6/4/1 component setup, they were good enough + extra tweets to garner a near perfect IASCA SQ score in 1997 (?) Finals.

"Bob Johann a/k/a SoundQZ34"
 

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watch out for the KTP-455Us on amazon, I got one for my bday a few days ago and the serial number was ripped off. had to return it
 

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I reccomend doing some 1/2-3/4 spacers in the front with a simple sheet of phatmat or comperable sound deadner. This will clean up a lot of your distortion but if your cranking it on a regular basis then get an amp. The speakers need more power to drive at higher dB's than the deck can provide, thus distortion. A 8 in the trunk area and good power to your speakers will give a richer sound and fill in where you need your bass. I've got 2 cheap lanzar 8's in a custom box and they sound like a 12 when I crank it. Otherwise they just fill in the low end when just cruising. They only come alive when the sound is turned up(which is what I want).
 

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In my old lx I had a 4 channel amp hooked up to the front and rear speakers. You can either keep the amp in the trunk and run the wires to the harness or the front speaker, or keep the amp up front somewhere and run the wires
 

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Man Im really happy w/ my down grade to a alpine 10" sub directly below my drivers seat. (A lot better than my 120lbs 12" sub I had for years) I have a HB too and was trying to cut back on weight, came in at 25lbs in cutom fiberglass box. ( though If I had stock seats it wouldn't have fit)

Pushing 600rms watts outta the sucker atm.

Alpine SWR-T10 10" Single 4 ohm Shallow Type-R Subwoofer
 
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