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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, my wifes 12 Odyssey has been throwing a couple codes.

We were getting along ok but recently it had been throwing a code and then going into limp mode. Would only rev to 3000-3500 and then bounce.

P0113 - Sensor high voltage IAT
Could be open short wires, and bad IAT

P0172 - Fuel system too rich bank 1
Could be MAF, ignition and or fuel system

P0301 - Cyl 1 misfire
Ignition system fault, MAF bad

P0102 - Faulty MAF low voltage reading
Bad electrics, faulty MAF.

Replaced the cylinder 1 coil with OEM part. Seems to have cleared up that fault.

Continued testing led me to clean the MAF and change the air filter. Still tripping MAF codes. Tested the leads and found the pic below. I just need some one to verify the wires for me. I know the IAT and MAF are one unit so two wires run signal for IAT to ECU, two for the MAF and the power and ground.

Pretty sure I need the MAF, but I am testing my trouble shooting skills here so gimme a hand if you know the yellow and brown connections specifically, those are the ones I think I need.

Thanks for reading this diatribe.

 

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Man there's no info on the wiring or at least I can't find it. But from what I was able to gather is there's 3 wires for the maf and two for the iat. There should be 5v and ground from Ecu for the iat. Then I think there's 12v,5v and ground from Ecu for the maf part. I'm not 100% on this and is what I got from a quick google search so I could be wrong.

What are the exact colors of the wires on your sensor? Hoping Honda kept some of them the same colors as older models.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@ Shoebox - not sure this is covered, Honda have been dicks to us about everything so far, gunna call them. They want $1400 for an axel boot, and two filters to be replaced. I might have voided the warranty by buying the air filter my self at $20.

We bought the extra tires for life package, they gave us our second set after not rotating properly. Then the set they gave us were like two steps down from the OEM tires, they said they can since the others weren't in stock......right.

Just trying to figure this out with out those fuck bags, since I know more then most of their techs(my local dealer not Honda techs in general), I just dont have a computer to plug in and tell me what to fix like them.

@ 2jz - Wire color follows above picture. From what I have seen my IAT might be the cause not my MAF, just so happens they occupy the same housing. Thanks for the hand.
 

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B-series Destroyer
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Flow charts tell me Maf issue or wiring issue or PCM.

Any chance you replaced the timing belt recently?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rico - I think the IAT is hard to test, the MAF seems to be changing as it is supposed too. The IAT signal doesn't change but I am not standing there as it warms up. Side thought, it(cell/flashing engine) comes on after the engine is warmed up, never as it warms.

As far as changing parts, nope, never touched the engine, it was/still under warranty.

Only things done by Honda are oil/fluid changes, filter changes, and coil for cylinder 1.

This issue started last winter. Thought it cleared up and it came on strong recently, the last couple weeks. Changed the air filter and still cant keep codes from popping up.

Next time the code trips I will check at Autozone or closest place to see what code trips now. I will attempt to test if check engine light flashes again.
 

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Spark plug for #1 cylinder replaced with coil? There is a bulletin for misfires caused by piston rings lining up and fouling plugs. Might want to pull #1 and check for yourself.


DTC P0113:
IAT Sensor Circuit High Voltage


NOTE: Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot, and review the general troubleshooting information.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

Check the IAT SENSOR in the DATA LIST with the HDS.

Is about -40 °F (-40 °C) or less, or 4.92 V or more indicated?

YES —
Go to step 3.

NO —
Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the MAF sensor/IAT sensor and the PCM.■


Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

Disconnect the MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector.

Connect MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector terminals No. 4 and No. 5 with a jumper wire.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

Check the IAT SENSOR in the DATA LIST with the HDS.

Is about -40 °F (-40 °C) or less, or 4.92 V or more indicated?

YES —
Go to step 8.

NO —
Go to step 20.


Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

Remove the jumper wire from the MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

Measure the voltage between MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector terminal No. 4 and body ground.

Is there about 5 V?

YES —
Go to step 12.

NO —
Go to step 16.


Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

Jump the SCS line with the HDS.

Disconnect PCM connector A (49P).

Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A37 and MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector terminal No. 5.

Is there continuity?

YES —
Go to step 27.

NO —
Repair an open in the wire between the PCM (A37) and the MAF sensor/IAT sensor, then go to step 22.


Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

Jump the SCS line with the HDS.

Disconnect PCM connector C (49P).

Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C24 and MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector terminal No. 4.

Is there continuity?

YES —
Go to step 27.

NO —
Repair an open in the wire between the PCM (C24) and the MAF sensor/IAT sensor, then go to step 22.


Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

Replace the MAF sensor/IAT sensor.

Reconnect all connectors.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

Reset the PCM with the HDS.

Do the PCM idle learn procedure.

Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS.

Is DTC P0113 indicated?

YES —
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the MAF sensor/IAT sensor and the PCM, then go to step 1.

NO —
Troubleshooting is complete. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.■


Reconnect all connectors.

Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM.

Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS.

Is DTC P0113 indicated?

YES —
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the MAF sensor/IAT sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Had a cylinder one misfire, so I changed the coil and didnt get that code anymore. Could be coincidence. I will check the plug when I get home. Thanks for looking into it.
 

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DTC P0102:
MAF Sensor Circuit Low Voltage


NOTE: Before you troubleshoot, record all freeze data and any on-board snapshot, and review the general troubleshooting information.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait 2 seconds.

Check the MAF SENSOR in the DATA LIST with the HDS.

Is about 0 g/s, or 0.1 V or less indicated?

YES —
Go to step 3.

NO —
Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the MAF sensor/IAT sensor and the PCM.■


Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

Disconnect the MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

Measure the voltage between MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES —
Go to step 7.

NO —
Repair an open in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and the MAF sensor/IAT sensor, then go to step 19.


Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

Measure the resistance between MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground.

Is there 190-210 kΩ?

YES —
Go to step 13.

NO —
Go to step 9.


Jump the SCS line with the HDS.

Disconnect PCM connector A (49P).

Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A20 and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES —
Repair a short in the wire between the PCM (A20) and the MAF sensor/IAT sensor, then go to step 20.

NO —
Go to step 12.


Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A20 and MAF sensor/IAT sensor 5P connector terminal No. 3.

Is there continuity?

YES —
Go to step 25.

NO —
Repair an open in the wire between the PCM (A20) and the MAF sensor/IAT sensor, then go to step 20.


Substitute a known-good MAF sensor/IAT sensor.

Reconnect all connectors.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

Clear the DTC with the HDS.

Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm without load (in P or N).

Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS.

Is DTC P0102 indicated?

YES —
Reinstall the original MAF sensor/IAT sensor, then go to step 26.

NO —
Replace the original MAF sensor/IAT sensor, then go to step 19.


Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).

Reconnect all connectors.

Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

Reset the PCM with the HDS.

Do the PCM idle learn procedure.

Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS.

Is DTC P0102 indicated?

YES —
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the MAF sensor/IAT sensor and the PCM, then go to step 1.

NO —
Troubleshooting is complete. If any other Pending or Confirmed DTCs are indicated, go to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting.■


Reconnect all connectors.

Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM.

Check for Pending or Confirmed DTCs with the HDS.

Is DTC P0102 indicated?

YES —
Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the MAF sensor/IAT sensor and the PCM. If the PCM was updated, substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the PCM was substituted, go to step 1.
 

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Missfire bulletin is 23 pages long. Not copying and pasting it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No please dont.

You are a champ.

Some one else rep this guy for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Me as well. Will have until Friday to trouble shoot and then order what I need.

Thanks Beer.
 

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Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hell's yeah boys, still testing my mule, haven't tripped a code again, yet. Didn't have time last night to get under the hood before it was too late, lots of kid activities at night.

Thanks again too all. Rico, you the man.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
UPDATE

So we had a cylinder one misfire and took it too Honda. All was fine, they said, it was probably a fluke. Then we started getting other codes intermittently and lately it just started flashing check engine light etc.

Took it upon myself to start poking around and found this.



I should have checked this long ago, I thought, trusted, whatever Honda that it was fine as stated.

There could be an issue with the rings as stated above too soon to tell. Went and got a spark plug and no codes, no weird idle, nothing. See what happens after my wife drives it and update as needed.

I'll pull this plug soon and check for fouling.

Thanks Rico and others who contributed to my thoughts process and trouble shooting. Now on to my Civic.
 
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