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Discussion Starter #1
You may or may not know that I race a 1994 Vx hatch swapped to Si specs in the NASA SE Honda Challenge Series. I am currently pulling my engine for my rebuild and am looking for a few of the pros on here to chime in with any suggestions/tips that might be helpful in either the power of longevity departments.

Currently I have a stock D16Z6 that I need to get on its way to the machine shop for a good inspection before the block and head get decked...what amount can I take off of each that would give me the most benefit and result in the least amount of timing correction as I have to retain the stock cam gear.

On the way is a SUPER-KIT minus pistons from FJT :TU: and ARP head studs and 8mm rod bolts from TUNER TOYS

Joey Songer of Joeys Motorsports (the local Honda guru) will be handling the assembly as well as shimming the oil pump for better pressure and a possible port match on the intake/exhaust (depenging on my funds).

This is really just a stock freshen-up with a few tricks thrown in for longevity so I dont expect 150whp when I get it on the dyno!

I will get some pics of the car up this weekend if anyone is interested!

Thanks D-Series.org
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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well when i took my block to the machine shop. i asked him the same question about the decking. he stated a square deck is you best bet. you really don't shave off almost anything off, but square decking it helps out alot. then again he does build oval track cars for a living.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update: Mfactory oil cooler kit on the way...been wanting one of these for awhile and once I saw they were a sponsor I jumped on it!
 

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In H4 every little bit helps. HC allows for balancing and blueprinting so id suggest you go that route. They allow you a .5 bump in compression but doing so also alters your cam timing,and h4 does not allow for a cam gear. I would suggest you have your head and deck just checked for straightness and nothing else. Really theres not many engine tricks that can be done for an h4 competitor, just make sure its built right. Id suggest that you focus on your bolt ons and tuning to extract your advantages. A good header like an smsp, a proper length intake tube with a vstack, good exhaust, and definitely find someone around you with good efi tuning experience. They can definitely help you find some power out of the ecu while keeping it safe. And i noticed you said you are getting different rod bolts, i would check the rulebooks for that......i dont know how strict they are when they mean that all bottom end components MUST be oem. Aftermarket rod bolts might break that rule.

For suspension, give the guys at picperformance a call, its definitely the best stuff i have driven on by far. They had the H1 and H2 championships a few years back, and just recently i noticed a large part of the field running their suspension at nationals. After talking to some of the drivers i was definitely convinced it was the way to go. After getting out on the track, i was very happy with the way they performed.
 

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^says your allowed to change compression by .5, well if at all possible you could swap to a different set of pistons (OEM's of course) and have the head decked a lil. Since you are stuck running the stock cam gear you could get the head decked however big 1 tooth off on the timing belt is, you will also have to allow for the bump in compression. As for the port matching, this you can really do yourself if you have a rotary tool and the time. The main part of doing it yourself is taking your time. Also since you are going to get the oil pump shimmed you might want to go ahead and get it ported a little, oil flow is not as much a problem with z6 oil pump as it is with the y's but a lil extra flow shouldn't hurt.

If you post up a link to the rules for your class, i will read over them and see what else you could do to gain that lil bit of extra power out of the car.
 

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Let's Go Oakland!
99 EX - 13 EX
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Just google honda challenge and ull get the website. The updated rules are posted there in a pdf file. Or u can get them from nasaforums

Goodluck with the build dragn, deff keep us posted, I plan to get into :9 as soon as - am no longer in school.
 

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^says your allowed to change compression by .5, well if at all possible you could swap to a different set of pistons (OEM's of course) and have the head decked a lil.
Pistons have the be of the same kind that came in the block. There is no mixing and matching of cylinder heads. You are allowed oversized oem pistons of the same kind. A light decking and a light resurface will do a light raise in compression, and i believe a thinner headgasket is allowed as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Roemer and Psyco...thanks... I do have the rule book but was kind of asking for any "special" tricks anyone knew and then I would check them for legality against the rules to see if I could use them.

Thanks for all the interest in helping!
 

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ok after reading over the rules a few times i think i got a few ideas for ya.

For the motor i would overbore it the max allowed (.040) to give the engine a little bit more displacement. Just doing that brings the displacement up to 1633. Next I would get the head port matched per the rules along with the intake manifold. The rules say you can raise the compression 1/2 point so also have the head decked about 20 tho and that should give you a CR of about 9.7:1. Since you are unrestricted on flywheels I would get the stock one lightened up a little bit, between 12-15lbs.

If you realyl want to work the car over you can do some transmission work, but this isn't the place for trans stuff.
 

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It's probably against the rules. But since a you advance 1 degree for every .012 milled then you could mill .055, and run a y7/y8 cam gear, which is a half of a tooth off, which is close to 4.5 degrees.
 

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Let's Go Oakland!
99 EX - 13 EX
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This has nothing to do with the motor Dragn, but I have watched a few videos of the west coast HC and they trade paint quite a bit, and im sure its the same over on your side. My buddy who has run spec miata for years used to have this trick of welding small steel strips inside the fenders like around the arch.. supposable it helped "bump" the other car off instead of him.

I also learned from hanging around the spec miata guys.. that anythign that is NOT checked in spec, you can pretty much guarantee its going to be messed with.. so every single small detail will help.

Sorry I cant be more help. Good Luck, cant wait to see the build and results
 

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Well?
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thats a pretty sweet idea there psycho
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Great tip Psycho! Bumpers lol

I got some pics up now in the Showcase forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Laguna...damn I am jelous...one day I hope to drive that track.

Kinda hoping for a trip to the Bonneville Salt Flats to run @ speed week then on the Laguna for a track day...it is only like 5000 miles round trip @ 14 mpg with Diesel @ $3.50...so roughly $1,350.00 just in fuel. Donations?
 
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