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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In the process of notching the crank girdle to clear the rod bolts on my eagle H beam rods, I cut too deep and created a 1/4" hole in the webbing between the #3 and #4 crank caps. Will this hole cause any problems? There's still plenty of meat on the girdle and I'll only be pushing 200-300hp so I'm not worried about the girdle cracking but I am worried it might cause oil flow issues. I have a ported and shimmed oil pump but I know that the y series engine have a habit of spinning bearings so I just want to be 100% sure.
 

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Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI hb/ 01 GSR
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Post a pic. Its probably fine as long as it doesnt go into an oil galley

Edit but after rereading your post. It may be into an oil passage. If thats the case you may want to get it welded up then not go so deep.

The girdle should be bolded up tight to the block before welding. Or submerge 80% of it in water leaving only the part being welded above as to not warp it very much.

Personally id want it bolted to the block before welding
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Post a pic. Its probably fine as long as it doesnt go into an oil galley

Edit but after rereading your post. It may be into an oil passage. If thats the case you may want to get it welded up then not go so deep.

The girdle should be bolded up tight to the block before welding. Or submerge 80% of it in water leaving only the part being welded above as to not warp it very much.

Personally id want it bolted to the block before welding
I tried to round it out as much as possible to keep it from cracking but made the hole larger instead 🙂🔫
Unfortunately I do not own a TIG welder so I can't weld it even if I wanted to, but it's not anywhere near the main oil galley that runs parallel to the crank so I think I'm good.
136570
 

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Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI hb/ 01 GSR
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Oh yeah, looking at the pic you may be fine. Id blow some air into it and see if it goes anywhere though
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh yeah, looking at the pic you may be fine. Id blow some air into it and see if it goes anywhere though
Looks like it’s just solid metal around the inside of the hole. A full girdle with a hole in it is still stronger than 5 individual crank caps I guess lol
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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If it's not into the oil galley, I'd still seal it up. The Y5 I helped build, we didn't have that issue.

Do read the ARP rod bolt info before TQ the rod bolts. What we were supplied was 50-75, So I three stepped it 50-65-75. At 65, bolts were stretching, I could FEEL it.

The necked down bolts only get 48 for final TQ...oops. At least I felt it before motor was finished. A trans. customer of mine, not so lucky. 2.5 runs into an event and the block had a window, oil on the turbo blanket, small fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If it's not into the oil galley, I'd still seal it up. The Y5 I helped build, we didn't have that issue.

Do read the ARP rod bolt info before TQ the rod bolts. What we were supplied was 50-75, So I three stepped it 50-65-75. At 65, bolts were stretching, I could FEEL it.

The necked down bolts only get 48 for final TQ...oops. At least I felt it before motor was finished. A trans. customer of mine, not so lucky. 2.5 runs into an event and the block had a window, oil on the turbo blanket, small fire.
So I would just google the number on the rod bolts or the rods to find the torque specs?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Call Eagle. ARP will not sell you the rods bolts for Eagle rods....
 
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