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08 H-D Ultra Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
So a couple of months back I traded my 98 GMC Jimmy with 220K on the clock. For a 93 Ford F150 with 120K on the clock standard cab 4.9 inline 6 (300) with auto trans backing it. Truck needed a few part replaced when I got it.
So far I have replaced
All front wheel bearings
Both Front rotor
Front pads
New brake lines from frame to caliper.
New radius arm bushings
Just bought a new coolant temp sensor still need to install it
Odds and ends on the interior

Plans for the truck is to use it as a back up daily for when the Honda is down. To haul winter wood to heat the house. Haul car parts and just to have a truck.

Future work I plan to do
3/4 Suspension drop
Remove whats left of the clear most has flaked off already.
Clean up a few surface rust spots
Repaint the rust spots
Repaint the spots where paint has came loose
Lay some flat clear over the truck.
Then just tidy up the interior.
Leave the drivetrain stock as possible

I just want a decent truck that I can daily when needed like I currently have been doing getting 16/17 MPG out of the ol' girl so not bad.

Would like to hear some input from you guys on her.
 

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08 H-D Ultra Classic
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985 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
How she looked when I bought her. I have since cleaned her up just haven't got any pictures yet. Also ordered an old school saddle blanket material seat cover should have it this week.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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4,008 Posts
we had an 89 f150. grew up in that truck. finally got rid of it when the oil pump gave up. miss that thing. had my butt indentation in the passenger seat. 16yrs it ran and never gave us any grief
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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not sure about the auto trans, but our 5 speed was the bees knees
 

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DIY Guru
96 Ranger-stock
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637 Posts
Should have the same trans that is found behind the 302/5.0 The AOD maybe a C6 if it is a 3 speed non overdrive.

If you blow up a 300/4.9l you have done something.

Big thing is not letting it over heat, the EFI 300 heads are horrid about cracking. the head will crack before the HG lets go, that is more common than not.

make sure you install the brass body ECT sensor, the plastic body one are junk out the box.
When the ECT fails in a ford EEC-IV the ECU thinks its -40* and drops mass fuel
 

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08 H-D Ultra Classic
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Put a Turbo on that thing.
I wish I had the time and money it would be a torque monster from hell! :devil:

Should have the same trans that is found behind the 302/5.0 The AOD maybe a C6 if it is a 3 speed non overdrive.

If you blow up a 300/4.9l you have done something.

Big thing is not letting it over heat, the EFI 300 heads are horrid about cracking. the head will crack before the HG lets go, that is more common than not.

make sure you install the brass body ECT sensor, the plastic body one are junk out the box.
When the ECT fails in a ford EEC-IV the ECU thinks its -40* and drops mass fuel
The previous owner had just replace the thermostat and housing with a water pump replacement and did new hoses the only old parts on the cooling system were the sensor and the radiator. The sensor is currently reading under temp. The new one is brass with plastic connector on the end. Honestly haven't checked to see which trans it has but it does shift hard at times but its seldom. I was contemplating doing a new filter and fluid change on it but not sure if it would help or hurt I have heard many conflicting debates

not sure about the auto trans, but our 5 speed was the bees knees
Honestly haven't checked to see which trans it has but it does shift hard at times but its seldom. I was contemplating doing a new filter and fluid change on it but not sure if it would help or hurt I have heard many conflicting debates

That I6 is a good motor. I suspect it will do you well over the years.
Yeah I have heard they can be one of the best motor around when well maintained so that's what I'm shooting for!
 

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Honestly haven't checked to see which trans it has but it does shift hard at times but its seldom. I was contemplating doing a new filter and fluid change on it but not sure if it would help or hurt I have heard many conflicting debates
Auto trans are finicky to put it lightly. The fluid change could help a ton or it could end up worse than before. I was in the same spot on a car about 2 years ago. I decided against it. The car has the same hard shift occasionally, but no new issues. I'm not advocating not doing maintenance, but I read the same conflicting stories.
 

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Love the Civic
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Nice, I like the body style of those years. Not sure if those are a two part frame rail or not, that one looks straight though. Always wanted one of the older ones with frames rails that ran from the front to the back of the whole vehicle.

In to see some more.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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apparently if you do a flush and fill on a transmission itll "shock" the system and itll eat itself in the next few weeks



according to a few mechanics my wife talked to about hers. Ive never heard such bullshit.


also, the last garage she took the car to for throwing a misfire code, told her that the valve covers on the 05 Nissan altimas crack with old age and had to pay 300$ for a new valve cover. that was 2 weeks ago, this week, it still leaks, and there is no oil in the engine.

/thread jack
 

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DIY Guru
96 Ranger-stock
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637 Posts
Bet the hard shifts are when its cold.

Fords are like that.....

What color is the fluid? Red to pink? or is it brownish?

I bet it is the servo piston seal a bit hard and untill the fluid warms and the seal softens a tad bit.

But I am not much on transmissions, Transzex I bet would have better insite on it.
 

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08 H-D Ultra Classic
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985 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Bet the hard shifts are when its cold.

Fords are like that.....

What color is the fluid? Red to pink? or is it brownish?

I bet it is the servo piston seal a bit hard and untill the fluid warms and the seal softens a tad bit.

But I am not much on transmissions, Transzex I bet would have better insite on it.
The fluid is a light red or pinkish color. The hard shifts are actually more when it's hot or has been sitting a few days short trips daily it normally will on do it a hand full of times say a 80mile day it might hard shift 3 times that's mostly highway with about 10 miles in town. It seems to do it more going from 2 to 3 more than any other gear change
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got the new seat cover on half assed it need to pull the seat out and finish it oh well looks decent I think
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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Plans for the truck is to use it as a back up daily for when the Honda is down. To haul winter wood to heat the house. Haul car parts and just to have a truck
Hopefully it can keep up with even that duty, my 90 f250 with 189xxx sure couldnt

That I6 is a good motor. I suspect it will do you well over the years.
I heard this same thing about the 90's 7.3 but sure didn't have any luck with mine
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did an oil change a few weeks back looks like someone fucked up the drain plug sometime in its life took me almost an hour to stop the leak next oil change I'm going to have to figure something else out I believe it's just missing the crush washer but the bolt was also a different size from what it should have been so who knows what's been done to the poor thing in its life
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Forgot to post this when it happened
 

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Congrats, ford i6s are fucking dogs. The 79 200 i6 in my first car had a torque peak below where it idled and the torque curve after that was like the glide slope of a set of car keys. On the upside you seriously cant kill thise things unless you run them without oil. The 300 actually has a removable intake unlike the 200 though, so they may have increased the airflow above what a mcdonalds straw could flow by 93.

Should have the same trans that is found behind the 302/5.0 The AOD maybe a C6 if it is a 3 speed non overdrive.

If you blow up a 300/4.9l you have done something.

Big thing is not letting it over heat, the EFI 300 heads are horrid about cracking. the head will crack before the HG lets go, that is more common than not.

make sure you install the brass body ECT sensor, the plastic body one are junk out the box.
When the ECT fails in a ford EEC-IV the ECU thinks its -40* and drops mass fuel
In a 93 its VERY likely to be a 4 speed auto unless someone put in a c6 aftermarket.

I am kinda amazed the 300s crack heads, I have burned the living shit out of a ford 200 i6 and a 250 i6, both around late 70s models. The 200 I drove without a radiator, just looped hooses and heater core going full blast for a couple weeks, everytime I stopped I could hear the oil furiously popping and boiling in the crankcase. After 2 weeks I bought a radiator and put it in and did an oil change, the car ran perfectly fine.

The 250 i6 came out of a late 70s granada, and was in my 67 mustang. I was driving to a date and the car started overheating badly, but I already had a 351 sitting in my garage waiting to go in so I just said fuck it and kept driving. It got to the point it was running but wouldnt produce ANY power, I think the fuel was vaporizing before it made it through the carb. I had one of those cheap mechanical gauge sets that says 32f at about 10 oclock and 280f at about 2oclock, mine was pointed straight down at 6 oclock.

I ended up pushing the (furiously smoking) car through a few blocks of downtown tacoma in washington state while dressed up for a fancy date and had 3 people try to sell me crack, I guess I looked like I needed an energy boost... I finally pushed it into a gas station parking lot and asked the clerk if they had a pay phone around (this was back when those existed) he said they used to but that they got rid of it because the drug dealers were constantly using it, I was annoyed but really couldnt really argue with his logic.

About this point the car was smoking badly enough it was attracting a fair amount of attention, and I was worried it might catch fire so I pushed it over to the air/water station and started dumping water on the engine, which I figured would crack the crap out of the block, but maybe keep it from catching fire. After creating a cloud of steam large enough to obscure the entire block, leaping out of the way of a couple 30 foot boiling geysers when I put water in the radiator, and being offered crack by two more individuals, I eventually got it cooled down to safe levels.

Figuring the engine was 100% gone I figured what the hell, and tried to start it. It took off first try but sounded like a sparkplug was missing, I filled it with water and drove it to my date anyway. For about the next 6 months I mostly carpooled so only drove the car a couple times a week but it was a totally reliable 5 cylinder that I called it the helicopter. One weekened I was bored and bought a $10 headgasket and swapped it out, the old one had blown out a chunk the size of a quarter out of the rearmost cylinder. With a new headgasket it drove 100% fine until I sold it around a year later.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have owned this truck now 3 years +
The truck still runs and drives fine. 148k on the clock.
Drove it into work this morning and stopped at a gas station damn thing wouldn't start back up.
So we jumped it got it to work decided to call NAPA a sister company to the company I work for.
They delivered me a group 65 battery for $95 list price is $150 on it.
When I pulled the battery that was in it I noticed it was a NAPA battery from Jan 2011 that thing more than paid for itself closing in on 8 years in service.
By the way the damn thing started right up once I made it to work and tried it again. Likely a loose cable but not chancing it with a battery that old and a truck that sits as much has this one does.
I have averaged 10k a year on it since I first got it.
 
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