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Discussion Starter #1
Well time for a new build. Some of you already know the game plan but for those that dont it will be dirty dirty cheap!

The motor is a f23, k20a2 rods and pistons, block has been shaved .020 to bring the pistons up to deck. Comp should be around 10:5 or 11 when done. The head is a stock f22a1 non vtec head.

Enough talk onto the pic's!

Best way to start a new build with lots of box's full of goodies.




Big thanks to Hiprofile for coming through on these brackets for the home made F2B!






All new gaskets, bearings, timeing belt, oil sandwich and turbo manifold.




 

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94 Integra
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1,226 Posts
The F/H trans moves the motor forward a good 2-3" vs F2B, which points the axles at a 30* angle backwards. The only 2 chassis parts that need moving is the fuel filter (obstructs intake tube elbow) and the brake prop valve for dual-runner manifolds.

If I did the calc correctly, this will be about 10.2:1CR. It should support a lot of power for OEM components...
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts
Very nice stuff! You going to use the K series rods?

What chassis is it going in? sweet!
 

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1990 civic 4 door LX
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i am confused. thought compression was closer to 11.5:1 with the pistons and deck height. goodluck man looks fun! guess i need to do some math
 

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5,819 Posts
subscribed, im eager to see how this little beast does.
X2. When you say dirty dirty cheap,around how much is dirty dirty cheap?
 

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2,992 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ill be keeping an eye on this. It's pretty much exactly one of the engines I've been thinking about putting together.
You might also get a chance to ride in it or drive it:TU:

Russ I still havent had a chance to try out those programs I texted you about fml.

And I thank you for making my day THAT much better.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Damn that made my day:TU:

Very cool setup.
Does F2B make everything fit better than using an F/H trans?
The F/H trans moves the motor forward a good 2-3" vs F2B, which points the axles at a 30* angle backwards. The only 2 chassis parts that need moving is the fuel filter (obstructs intake tube elbow) and the brake prop valve for dual-runner manifolds.

If I did the calc correctly, this will be about 10.2:1CR. It should support a lot of power for OEM components...
Thanks again for all the help! I think I might not even need to move around anything if my idea works. Ill keep you posted for sure.

Very nice stuff! You going to use the K series rods?

What chassis is it going in? sweet!
Im using k20a2 rods and pistons, seen the stock k20a2 block record and I think im good to go. Also eye balling it the sleeves on the f23 might be thicker then a f22.

This is interesting. I will be watching.
Keep checking in, motor is still apart and needs to be together racing come the 10-11th!

So much to do sooooo little time......

i am confused. thought compression was closer to 11.5:1 with the pistons and deck height. goodluck man looks fun! guess i need to do some math
According to zeal its 10.67:1 or 10.92:1 depending on how much the machine shop took off the head and block.

k20a2 have a 4.25 dome cc, 30.00 comp hight (mm) and a 139mm rod length.

subscribed, im eager to see how this little beast does.
You and me both!

X2. When you say dirty dirty cheap,around how much is dirty dirty cheap?
I would say a lot cheaper then my vitara.

So far the break down is.

$100 for the block
$50 for the piston and rods with a free set of rings.
$100 for arp head studs
$100 aem cam gear
$150 for bearings and gaskets
$50 for timing belt
$200 for evo 8 turbo
$70 for new evo 8 turbo manifold
$150 for b16 trans
$350 for clutch and flywheel
$10 for home made balance shaft eliminator
$300 for machine shop, hot tank head, block, hone, shave block .020, head was deck and looks shaved, flip piston on rods to correct wrist pin location.

Hiprofile F2B brackets, injector, and 4bar(not giving out the price unless he wants to)
Free head
Free shift linkage
Free oem mounts im going to fill
Free back bracket
Free intake manifold

Im sure theres some small amount for lil things that im not recalling right now. But for the most part super cheap. Fyi for anyone reading, im sure for the power I want a stock block could have done it, but im looking for higher compression and almost instant power; other wise a stock block would have been perfect saving me a huge chunk of $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks like it will be super fun!

You did more than just than just the pil pumpfor the balance shaft delete right?
I followed this writeup;
$20 H/F Balance shaft removal. - Honda-Tech

Time for another update.

So the night started with some beer and a f22a1 head with untold miles. Game plan was to tear it down, lap the valves, new valve seals and put it back together. After 2 hours she was all done.








Lapping valves the easy way, vac tube and a drill






 

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Discussion Starter #18




Test fitting the manifold, sooo close just a little re-drilling and should be good to go!


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New rod bearing should be in tonight. Finishing the motor tomorrow morning and hoplefully swapping it in this weekend if all goes well. Wish me luck!
 
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