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EF
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Discussion Starter #1
Looking into building a fully built n/a d16a6, would like to be around 11.5-1 C/R or higher, it is a track only car, running 104 octane. The head has already been ported, and will have a fully built valvetrain, which are the best options for forged pistons and rods, cam springs ect, ? Need to make power between 4250-8000rpm. My goal is to be around 120-125 whp or more. Also does any body know of someone that can dyno tune a obd0 car in ontario.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What do you think that i could reasonably achieve, i have to use a stock intake for the class that im in
 

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Where do you race? ill tell you what you need to do to get 113WHP out of a relatively stock A6 and I know how to get more too:). Shoot me a PM and we can chat.

If you race on asphalt maybe we've raced against each other before:bigok:
 

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Are you allowed to run an aftermarket cam? How about intake systems and headers? With all the head work you have claimed and with a CAI and decent exhaust and a good cam, 135 to 140 should be easily attainable.
 

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Yes i can run a aftermarket cam, and headers have to run stock air box,
Call WebCams and have them set you up with a cam that fits your needs. If you want to spend the cash, give a call to HyTech and have them design a header for you, run a 2.25" or 2.5" exhaust system, (mandrel bent) by VRS and drop in a K&N air filter. These mods along with tuning will make you smile from ear to ear the first day you take your ride to the track!!!!

BTW....who did the port work?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will post pic's as soon as i can, He didnt do alot of port work, just cleaned them up a bit.
 

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I will post pic's as soon as i can, He didnt do alot of port work, just cleaned them up a bit.
Good, because a lot of so-called porters like to just hog out the ports. This will actually ruin the powerband making the engine run almost like a toggle switch with absolutely no torque at all below 6K rpm.

If you do go with aftermarket valves, look into the supertech back cut valves, they will help some with better flow into the combustion chamber. Springs will be mandatory but don't waste your money on titanium retainers. OEM will be fine.
 

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What do you recomend for a C/R
.040" milled off the head wil net you 10.5 to 1. I would not go beyond 11.1 to 1 and most definitely clay your motor first, your cam may not allow the valves to clear your pistons at the higher compression ratio. IMO the cam and the lift of the valves will be more important to the performance of the engine than the extra 1/2 point of compression.
 

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What if i went with CP forged piston 11.0 C/R, stock rods with ARP rod studs?
No real need to unless your motor is a high mileage motor and is in need of a rebuild. Stock pistons and rods will take one hell of a beating all day long at
8K rpm's. But remember!......clay, clay and then re-clay your motor if you go with a high lift cam and 11 to 1 compression!!!
 
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