[tbrazzy-s3]

First post.. And it's a dooooozey.

Hi guys, I'm in the research stage of my turbo build and I've yet to decide what my true goals are for the build. I know that I want to build a d-series turbo for sentimental value and the lack of money I would have to spend on the base engine itself (yes I know that turbo builds are expensive, so why would I spend 2k on a b-series swap that I'll just be gutting anyways..) This is where you come in. This thread is for guys who have been through a d-series turbo build (or more than one). I'd like to know what setup was the most enjoyable, what you were running as far as turbo, pounds of boost, what your final HP and torque numbers were, and even the chassis you chose for your build.

At the moment, I know that I would like anywhere from 250 hp and up. My reason for this being. I have a 1994 GSR and I'd like my d-series turbo to have at least 50 more horsepower than a mild N/A build. I would really like to FEEL a large difference in the two vehicles.

The car will be a street and highway vehicle more than a track-whore so ridiculous clutches and cams are out of the question. A/C and power amenities are negotiable.

I know this is long, but thanks for reading! I'm very interested in hearing what everyone experienced out of their build and from their I can narrow down my own goals and really map out the build.

 

[dj211855]

O Boy! I hate to be the first one to post and I'm really an ass dealing with this type of question/s.

-250whp and up, You got to build the block to be able to handle that much power, the stock head is fine.

As far as my previous setup,

DOHC ZC turbocharge it was really fun on my crx, street tune so no actual numbers.
High comp LS-vtec-
Current-B20vtec

If you ask me, I really like my B20vtec. If I ever boost again I will keep it track.

And when it comes to numbers there are alot of variables to achieve certain goals. And, one would be MONEY.

 

[tbrazzy-s3]

O Boy! I hate to be the first one to post and I'm really an ass dealing with this type of question/s.

-250whp and up, You got to build the block to be able to handle that much power, the stock head is fine.

As far as my previous setup,

DOHC ZC turbocharge it was really fun on my crx, street tune so no actual numbers.
High comp LS-vtec-
Current-B20vtec

If you ask me, I really like my B20vtec. If I ever boost again I will keep it track.

And when it comes to numbers there are alot of variables to achieve certain goals. And, one would be MONEY.

I know it won't be cheap. I'm not saying I'm loaded, but I'm also prepared to put some time, effort, and cash into the build. Mainly I'm just wanting to know what numbers gave people the most satisfaction, what numbers and setups went to hell in a hand basket etc.

Was 250hp "enough" for most street/highway builds or did it leave a little lacking. Was 330hp too much for the car and you spend every weekend rebuilding axles and praying your clutch didn't give out every time you shifted.

Thanks for the advice about 250+ I would definitely rework the internals (sleeve, pistons, rods, etc) even though I'm not planning on a 350hp+ build. I just want to do it right, gain a nice bit of production and keep the car from going BOOM within 5 minutes of me turning the key for the first time.

 

[TheToaster]

So you have no idea what you want..
And no idea how to do anything or how it works...

Learn how to do something

Then decide what you want.

You don't have someone else picking your girls for you do you?



Start Reading. Car Engine Basics Repair Maintenance Tuning Help Articles

 

[patprimmer]

Suggestions if you want good answers:-

1) Use a proper heading like advice on value for money street turbo.
2) Do some homework first like reading some FAQs and stickies and some build threads that HAVE HEADINGS that indicate they might be of use to you.
3) Drop the English class essay style prose and make fact focus posts that are easy to read quickly. Frankly I gave up halfway through.
4) No one can predict what satisfys you. Only you can decide that.
5) Dynos vary. Car weights vary. Measured hp numbers as such are more about bragging rights.
6) An important hp point or benchmark is where the changeover to a built bottom end with aftermarket rods is required.

 

[tbrazzy-s3]

Alright, next time I'll go with something more along the lines of.

"yea guys, I want to turbo my car, I'm shooting for 500hp, but I only have 500 dollars to spend and I don't want to mess with the pistons, rods, etc. Tell me what to do"

I'm not asking for that shit. I just wanted to know how everyone enjoyed their particular build, and what problems they ran into at what times. I didn't ask you to explain to me why I'd need a flex pipe and what turbo size I should run. yadayada This was supposed to be a conversation piece. Not a tech piece. I'm doing the tech homework on my own.

Thanks for the time guys, you've been real great.

 

[tbrazzy-s3]

So you have no idea what you want..
And no idea how to do anything or how it works...

Learn how to do something

Then decide what you want.

You don't have someone else picking your girls for you do you?



Start Reading. Car Engine Basics Repair Maintenance Tuning Help Articles

I can't build 10 different engines, running 10 different turbos, on 10 separate engine combos. Sorry bub, it's just not possible. What I CAN do is ask for 10 people who ran 10 different setups to chime in on what exactly they liked and disliked about theirs. Then I can make a more educated decision on where exactly I want to head before I go throwing 5-6k down the drain.

 

[Full_Tilt]

You took the time to make a decent intro post, so Im willing to give you advice other than telling you to search. Im going to assume you dont know anything, so dont be offended.

You are going to need a chipped ECU, injectors, a map sensor, possibly a fuel pump, colder spark plugs, and for your engine to be fully caught up on maintenance (fuel filter, spark plug wires, oil changed, etc.)
You are also going to want to be filled up with 93 octance gas, make sure all the low octane stuff is burned through.

THEN, its turbo time.
If youre inexperienced, a full go-autoworks turbo kit will make the install process very painless. If youre a little more savy, maybe have some fabrication skills, you can save some money by setting up your own charge pipes and intercooler with ebay parts. Id still suggest getting your manifold and downpipe from go-autoworks, especially if you want to keep AC.

With good tuning you can very reliably make 200 hp.
If you want to make 250, Id suggest building your bottom end with Viatars and custom length I-beams. This will give you a decent CR and allow you to make over 300hp reliably.

Keep searching. Look through build threads. Youll learn a lot. Once youve taken it all to heart, you may still ahve some specific questions which you can then make a thread about.

 

[tbrazzy-s3]

You took the time to make a decent intro post, so Im willing to give you advice other than telling you to search. Im going to assume you dont know anything, so dont be offended.


Keep searching. Look through build threads. Youll learn a lot. Once youve taken it all to heart, you may still ahve some specific questions which you can then make a thread about.

Hey man, Thanks for the thought out reply. I wasn't trying to step on all the OG, cold-blooded, bone-thug, d-series members' toes by posting. But everybody loves to flame an intro post, I get that.

I'll keep the thread posts to a minimum and do more homework.

 

[TheSteelBreeze]

I was originally looking to make 250-300whp.. for the amount of money.. to me it didn't seem too much more to skip to the big boy stuff and shoot for 400+.. 400 on the street isn't too big of a deal if you're a good AND sane driver but and it's as much fun as you can handle.. If you're a good driver and INsane.. then.. you're gonna want to look into danz's and flyinryan's build.. among a few others around here but good luck on the daily driving part.

My sister drove a 383whp boosted b18a1 in an eg hatch for about a year until it was stolen and she had cut rate insurance that didn't save her from mayhem..
she drove it every day, smooth as silk. it was ready for 500+ with another tune and some more boost as it was making those numbers on *just* 14psi.

for 250ish whp you'll have to build the bottom end-
if you build the bottom end it can handle 600
youll need injectors- they arent much more to go from 550's to 1000's
youll need a fuel pump- itll take you to 400+
youll need a turbo- shop around you can get a turbo for any hp range for about the same $$
youll need a bunch of similar parts so you may as well go the next step up from the pay to play line..

with my sisters hatch.. 383 was a BLAST and intimidating and scary AS FUCK when I first started driving it.. after a month.. I wouldn't want any less, personally..

I've driven a couple of v8 cars that had low to mid 200's, but they were heavier.. they were boring as hell.. my step dad has a ram with a hemi.. it is fun to drive.. when you floor it and get 6mpg.. after my sisters car it all feels like one of those electric scooters fat people use in the grocery store.

I just finished my build.. have yet to dyno tune it.. still breaking in the motor.. im shooting for 400+..

pardon the tone of my writing..

 

[patprimmer]

I was not trying to flame. I like to help, but when I help you for nothing, I expect you to make it as easy for me as you can.

You now say you searched, but your OP never indicated that so you can't blame people for presuming you didn't.

When I saw the please help... type heading I almost skipped it. I mostly do but I had some time to waste this morning so I clicked. Many others who might have helped will just skip by so I feel I gave you good advice in that regard.

OK some answers to what I am still kinda guessing you want to know.

About 200 to 250hp (depending on dyno tune etc) is a critical point. Below that you can expect good engine life with stock internals. That can still be fun in a light car, depending on your definition of fun

Is fun wildly smoking tyres through 3 gears but breaking axles clutches etc regularly.

Is fun having to be a bit careful in low gear, but being able to relatively quietly disappear into the distance leaving much fancier cars in your dust with a shocked look on the drivers face.

Is fun having a quickish durable economical daily driver that gets 30mpg and needs no more maintenance than regular oil changes.

No matter what you need a tunable ECu, a high output fuel pump or more, bigger injectors and a tuner or tuning paraphernalia, turbo, manifold, inter cooler, charge pipes, exhaust system, oil to turbo plumbing, waste gate if not built into turbo, blow off valve.

My advice would be a 200hp kit from Go Autoworks or RC Autoworks with a cast iron manifold that keeps your A/C and P/S.

Tune it for about 180 to 190whp.

You might want a short ratios transmission and an M factory LSD depending on if you want to be quick or just spectacular, noisy and smokey and how long you want your differential gears to last.

You might also want a reasonably upgraded organic clutch.

You might also want harder engine/tranny mounts or silocone rubber filled mounts.

You might also want traction bars.

You will need decent wheels and tyres and brakes.

You might also need good shocks, once again depending on your definition of fun.

Remember the bigger the turbo, the more the power, but also the more the lag and everyday driving issues and clutch, engine mounts etc etc required.

Next step up is Vitara pistons and aftermarket rods.

Next step again is a cam and valve train, ported head and tubular exhaust manifold probably eliminating the A/C and P/S.

Next step again is forged pistons and after market intake manifold.
OK

I am now out of time.

 

[TheAssassin]

My 211whp build was quick. My 278whp build is fast lol. I used a T3 60 trim so I have great low end response. The top end is strong enough to pull away from much more powerful cars.

Check out my build thread for the many details!

 

[NOSAJ]

I have 285HP w/ a vitara build and Edelbrock kit. It's fun on the track and street. Faster than most cars on the street
BUT
IT'S STILL NOT FAST ENOUGH!

so
settle in
and
get to readin' DSO and savin' $

(it's taken me 13yrs and $10K+ over the years to get this far and something is ALWAYS breakin')

best of luck

 

[dj211855]

So you get what I mean on my first post. Expect to get flame but don't get offended, next time ask a "smarter question".

Anyhow-

Daily driven car can vary, I live in california, the life of traffic "to work and from work" is hideous<spell check>

If I live in an open highway state where traffic is not a big deal, I would drive a 300whp boosted car.

Reliable- you have to built it to be reliable

As far as my daily now, It's a B20vtec 203hp and it's more than enought.

 

[xile6]

Ill put it like this.
Ive own a d15b7 bolts-on, y7/z6 bolt-on, ls, gsr and currnet y8 boosted.
The boosted y8 imo is the best out of all of them.
30mpg, the dark side lol, and the.sound of the turbo spooling and bov going off.

So id say a small turbo On a d pushing 200-250 is way better then a gsr pushing 180-190
Plus ost of the the d turbo is cheaper then a b swap

 

[tbrazzy-s3]

The past 4-5 answers were exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the in-depth answers. I'm not trying to waste anybody's time. It's just nice to hear what people liked and disliked from their builds.





dj211855: So you get what I mean on my first post. Expect to get flame but don't get offended, next time ask a "smarter question".

--No worries man, I've got thick skin. Thanks for the heads up

So id say a small turbo On a d pushing 200-250 is way better then a gsr pushing 180-190
Plus ost of the the d turbo is cheaper then a b swap

--My thoughts exactly. The GSR is going to be my daily. The d-series will be my project.



NOSAJit's taken me 13yrs and $10K+ over the years to get this far and something is ALWAYS breakin')

--That's a long time and a lot of money. Hopefully it's been worth it.