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it might be ecu but i dont want to keep wasting money on it. car was running before i swap injectors.. called a mechanic and he said the ecu was fried since the injector was getting power but not pulsing. he said the new injectors caused my ecu to fry... lmk what pic should i post to help with whats going on. thanks for everyone who is helping. ecu is p75
So what made you avoid putting the other fuel injectors back in? If it ran before.....



And another post saying the mechanic stated your new injectors hurt the ecu. Dont take your car back to him. OR, get a better explanation. Like asking about impediance checks. Wiring checks.


Any mechanic worth his salt would put a noide light on the injector plug and test for signal, rather than say, putting an extension to it and listening for a click.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
p75 was what the car came with. i cant find a p06 or p28 to save my life. im going to try the stock dizzi see if that works.
 

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trying random parts isnt going to fix it.

have you checked the basics, like fuses and if things are actually plugged in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
trying random parts isnt going to fix it.

have you checked the basics, like fuses and if things are actually plugged in?
yes. the car was running before and its not now. and im not trying different parts....

injectors not pulsing.
 

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"not trying different parts" yet you say you swapped the fuel injectors.

Which is it?

What exactly have you tried? Please make a list.


There must be something overlooked. These are very simply cars, and sometimes we forget to check the basics
 

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'93 / '95 Del Sol Si - '95 DX Coupe - '00 Accord EX F23 Manual
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Wait..If it was running on 3 cylinders but isn't sounding right, yet getting spark in cylinder 4 (which I assume was the one totally jacked up), you could have a massive leak in the intake manifold gasket that is sucking in coolant and air and not allowing the cylinder to properly fire. OR the rings are gone. Both easy fixes.

I just had this problem on a car I bought recently and it was the intake manifold gasket. After I put in new plugs, I ran it for a bit and checked cylinder 4. It looked like it had been steam cleaned. The rest looked normal.

On to the No-Start...

Also, if it really ran and you ONLY swapped the injectors, then I would assume that this is something easy that got F'd-in-the-A (on Saturday) (Randy Marsh). Check your fuses...just for the hell of it. Check your battery connections, unplug and reset the ECU (again, just for the hell of it).

I bought a CRX recently..and I got the B2 in it running before I pulled ANYTHING out of the car. The only purpose was verifying that everything besides the engine itself ran and/or functioned properly before I pull the motor. So if there is a no-start situation, I know what it 99% most likely is and what it isn't. That is essentially what you did as well. You witnessed the car run. So something easy is related to you pulling and swapping injectors. 99%.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
he came and couldnt figure it out. im just going to rebuilt the whole thing from scratch starting with a new harness and ecu. thanks to who ever tried helping.
 

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"he came and could not figure it out"

Was this an actual mechanic or someone trying to make a quick buck?


Either way you have failed to prove very basic things.

--what ecu and if the inside looks stock
--what injectors you have and whether they actually look okay (are the ends covered in shit?) This means you need an injector O-ring kit of course.
--still have not provided any actual supporting information via an image. Such as timing marks at TDC, whether or not valve lash is good, and even a basic distributor cap


So instead of WASTING YOUR GODDAMN MONEY rebuilding and buying a bunch of new parts, diagnose the motherfucker.


goddamn. There is a fine line between trying with real effort, and throwing a few words into a post to LOOK like you tried.

Go to your local parts store, and buy a Chiltons or Haynes manual for 10-20 bucks. If that is not your next purchase related to your car, scrap the fucker and buy one that works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
"he came and could not figure it out"

Was this an actual mechanic or someone trying to make a quick buck?


Either way you have failed to prove very basic things.

--what ecu and if the inside looks stock
--what injectors you have and whether they actually look okay (are the ends covered in shit?) This means you need an injector O-ring kit of course.
--still have not provided any actual supporting information via an image. Such as timing marks at TDC, whether or not valve lash is good, and even a basic distributor cap


So instead of WASTING YOUR GODDAMN MONEY rebuilding and buying a bunch of new parts, diagnose the motherfucker.


goddamn. There is a fine line between trying with real effort, and throwing a few words into a post to LOOK like you tried.

Go to your local parts store, and buy a Chiltons or Haynes manual for 10-20 bucks. If that is not your next purchase related to your car, scrap the fucker and buy one that works.
if you look ive provided all this info that youre asking for.. stock p75...
new injectors off amazon..
brand new distributor and distributor cap....
new o rings...
any more suggestion?

you want pictures of under my hood so you can tell me exactly what it is...? lol lmk.

when i say the mechanic couldn't figure it out he was here for 5 plus hrs... if you guys know better then him lmk.
 

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Did he run any tests? Such as compression, mechanical timing, resistance checks on wiring? Did he pop the distributor cap to be sure the shaft is spinning? Pull the cover off the ecu to check for fried injector drivers? Any of that? Did he share ANY findings with you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Did he run any tests? Such as compression, mechanical timing, resistance checks on wiring? Did he pop the distributor cap to be sure the shaft is spinning? Pull the cover off the ecu to check for fried injector drivers? Any of that? Did he share ANY findings with you?
i was with him most of the time. he did swap distributors/ and caps he made sure it was getting electricity.. he made me open the ecu so im sure he tested that. he tested the main relay. and gifted me an extra one he had. compression i tested before buying and driving the car back home. and yes he did share everything with me.

he says he finds it rare for a ecu to go bad out of no where and also said if he had to take a wild guess it has to do with the harness/wiring.
 

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Pictures of your current ecu, as in the sticker identifying it, and the guts inside, as it might be a case swap.

There are components that can be seen on the circuit board to indicate if it is manual or automatic, vtec or nonvtec, or if it has butterfly control or not.


And if a mechanic was there for 5 hours, he would at least have given you the basics. Is there crank pulse? is there signal from the "cam sensor" during engine cranking? Was there power to the ignition coil? Was there a tach output signal from the ignition control module? are the temperature sensors putting out any information? is the cooling system sealed up and not pushing coolant into the cylinders? Is gas making its way to the injectors at nominal pressure? Are the injectors firing? Are the harness grounds properly grounded? Is the engine in good proper mechanical timing?

Is the starter spinning the engine over fast enough? Is the battery healthy?

Or even the very basic of basics, is the car getting true 12volt during the cranking process so that the ignition coils and injectors even fire at all?




TONS of small stuff to check on a car. If he didnt mention ANYTHING in my list, he was worthless. ALL cars need these basics.
 

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Did anyone ever check the main 12v bridge plug? driver side near the strut tower or under the intake manifold depending purely on the engine and chassis harness year
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Did anyone ever check the main 12v bridge plug? driver side near the strut tower or under the intake manifold depending purely on the engine and chassis harness year
thanks for your help i would be posting up pictures of everything you just asked for, really appreciate your time and patience!
 

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The 12v bridge plug looks like a fat blank plug, can be red, gray, blue, or green depending on the year, trim, and chassis version of the harness.

Here is an example


look at the first picture. Center mass, slight left, where the TPS and MAP sensor plugs look like a sideways capital "Y"


There are those 2 fat plugs there, gray cover, blue body, and the one below, gray cover, gray body.


Find those plugs on your own harness, and CAREFULLY remove the cover. it is definitely going to have a big chance of being stuck. Just work on it slowly, spray some wd-40 on it, and work it carefully back and forth, amking space.


What you want to check for is corrosion inside. You also want to make sure there is no signs of water damage, like pitting, discoloration, etc...
 
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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
I figured it out. so like i said i was going to start from the ground up. so what i did was came up on a virging p06 (50$) at a junk yard and some injectors (20$ each) noticed while i was taking off the ecu in my car that there was some rigged wires and notice the prior owner had done some b/s trying to find ground (since the motor wasn't grounded properly) then i fixed it back to normal. put in the new/used ecu and injectors and boom. thanks for everyone who helped.

(ps) the injectors i got online never worked. had to get oem)

this also helped with wiring. .:FFS TechNet : OBD1 ECU Pin out Schematics :.
 

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Good deal. Self diagnosing is what imprints the knowledge and experience. No one is a pure expert, and no one is 100% accurate all the time.

I hate wiring. If I ever run into harness issues, I grab a 12 pack and come back ot it the next day lol
 
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