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If it was BARELY touching, I would probably say yes.

But because it looks like the flange isn't quite bolted down all the way, meaning when tightening more it wants to push the flexpipe into the sump even further, and it seems like there are clearance issues between the flat area and the flexpipe still. That will be a lot of banging to get shaped the way you need.

Any way you hit it, it will most likely just nudge something else out of alignment somewhere else.

With that much deformation of the stamped steel, you risk cracking it as that steel isn't very thick and is already set in its ways due to the stamping process, especially near corners.

It looks like the DP could have done with one more pie cut where it curves off the flange and it would have been perfect. Would those guys who welded your drain fittings to your pans help you out? It's literally one cut of stainless (2 1/2"?) at a 9 degree angle from centerline, then a single bandsaw cut between the 2nd pie cut and the rest of the downpipe, then weld in the new slice and voila you have clearance. It would take a fabricator an hour to do that, I know it would probably be like 50-70 an hour plus the material, so probably less than $100 to properly mod the downpipe?

If you lived closer I would have helped you out for free, but NC to NY is a drive.
 

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sorry buddy no banging the oil pan..

maybe a pie cut cheater bend > on entry to the 90elbow before the flex to move it "down"and over away from the pan..,

better yet cut the flex pipe off run open dp and give us some panty rippers.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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cut the straight piece, weld in a filler to clear.
 

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The elbow coming off the turbo looks wrong to me. A smoother U would lead the pipe downwards before turning across the engine after a short straight section. You'd be clear of the oil pan then.
 
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