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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, just got my T25 through the post, it is off a twin turbo skyline, i need to clock the turbo round to get the oil feed and drains in the right place. I have loosend both the compressor and exhaust housing bolts, but the bearing housing will not budge, there is a small grub screw next to the Garrett stamp, do i need to loosen this? I'm worried it will round off, if anyone has any suggestions please let me know!! :)


Thanks
 

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Once you loosen the bolts you need to give it a whack with a dead blow hammer to dislodge the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the compressor housing off, but not the part attached with the 'C Clip'. Do i need to take this off too?? Do you mean i need to hit the exhaust housing??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have that off already, now the compressor wheel is just left on the plate with the C Clip, The exhaust housing is loosend off as much as the bolts will allow because they foul on the oil/water inlets. I think it's the exhaust side that is holding it there unless i need to either undo this grub screw or the C Clip.

On my other turbo i simply loosed either side and it spun free as a whistle??

Thanks for the help by the way boys!
 

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Yes, give the exhaust side a whack.
 

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Put the compressor back on, tight. Then loosen the turbine side and use the compressor housing to clock it like I said before.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok well ive coated everything in penatrate so will leave it to soak over night and see if i can get it to shift!

Thanks again for the help so far.

EDIT: I only need to clock the center housing, the turbine and compressor housing are in a nice position,
 

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some housings have a pin in them to stop the housings from rotating.

take the housings off and remove the CHRA, then look for pins, etc, remove if u find, assembly in the correct orientation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok i will have a look cheers!

Also, what is the easiest way to convert to external wastegate? Can i simply weld the flapper shut? Or is that not a good idea for the temperatures that it will see?

I've seen another method of using a blocking downpipe flange, but i dont really want to spend out on one if i can help it.

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just in case i wanted to sell my turbo in the future i bolted mine down....

take out the little c-clip(dont loose this!) that holds the wg arm on, lossen the two bolts that hold the wastgate on the bracket....you should be able to remove the wasgate completly.....the arm usually has adjusting threads in the center of the arm, loosen and separate the two. bring it to the hardware store and find a long bolt that screws in easily. clock your turbo, bolt in the wastegate bracket in line w/ the flapper nub that the c-clip goes on. c-clip on the half of the actustor arm, put a washer on the bolt you bought and slide it threw one of the holes for the wastegate actuator bracket....tighten till the flapper wont move!!
 

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some housings have a pin in them to stop the housings from rotating.

take the housings off and remove the CHRA, then look for pins, etc, remove if u find, assembly in the correct orientation.
Yep. Grind that stupid pin off. I had a t25 and a td04 with the pin in it. The t25 had a pin on the compressor side and the td04 had one on the exhaust side.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
just in case i wanted to sell my turbo in the future i bolted mine down....

take out the little c-clip(dont loose this!) that holds the wg arm on, lossen the two bolts that hold the wastgate on the bracket....you should be able to remove the wasgate completly.....the arm usually has adjusting threads in the center of the arm, loosen and separate the two. bring it to the hardware store and find a long bolt that screws in easily. clock your turbo, bolt in the wastegate bracket in line w/ the flapper nub that the c-clip goes on. c-clip on the half of the actustor arm, put a washer on the bolt you bought and slide it threw one of the holes for the wastegate actuator....tighten till the flapper wont move!!
I will have a look into this too! Chances are i will just weld it if i am honest, i want it to be as secure as possible! Also it is that actuator bracket that is fouling because of the way the compressor housing tapers out towards the outlet, i need to get rid of the bracket and actuator assembly and arm all together if i am going to have the feed in the right place. That is a really good tip though i will definatley remember it!

Great info here!
As always, this forum is always so friendly and helpful, a lot of other foums i use would simply ignore a noob post like this ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Yep. Grind that stupid pin off. I had a t25 and a td04 with the pin in it. The t25 had a pin on the compressor side and the td04 had one on the exhaust side.
This will be the side i try first then! Do i need to remove the C Clip to get at the pin? I'm sorry for all these stupid questions.. I have searched for hours but never found solid answers!

Also, i'm still learning so don't just want to start ripping everything apart not knowing what the consequences are, whether i need to have it rebalanced after all of this etc?
 

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Yes take the C clip out. As long as you do not disassemble the center section you do not need to rebalance. The exhaust and compressor housings can be taken off no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Right well good news, i got the turbo clocked, i just left it all to soak in some oil & penetrate for a couple of days, the exhaust housing was just a bit siezed! It's all as i want it now.

I have also welded the wastegate flap shut, but we put a spot on the arm mechanism, as we didn't want to risk welding so clos to the turbine blades. It seems fairly solid but do you think it will hold under the temps it will see?

Also think i over-tightened and spun one of the bolts in the compressor housing <- TWAT :uh::bash:
 
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