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Discussion Starter #1
ok so for building a d16z6 block for power and reliability i would like to know 2 seperate things as i learn on building my block. i am already boosted now but am going to build my block so i can make more power. i am wondering what the pros and cons are with going with 75mm pistons or 75.5mm pistons.

also whether to go with h beam rods or i beam rods.

my essential goal is to build to be good for 400 hp but with all the reliability i can get. I know said and done i am not going to have a 400 whp car because i plan on dd this car after but i want to have my internals as strong as possible for a decent price. i am willing to save up and spend a good amount of money because i want to build my motor right the first time. thanks for the help.

just to throw it out there i want to be able to have a very nice low compression to handle the boost and am also going to be asking about head gasket size and all later in this thread after i figure out what compression i am going to have with the bottom end i am building and the z6 head i have with skunk 2 titanium valve train and cam ported and polished. thanks
 

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sprinkle fingers
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well pros of 75.5mm you can achieve the piston to wall clearance you choose to run with your set up. however, 75mm you might run a looser than desired piston to wall clearance you might want to run. But plus side to 75 mm is you have more sleeve wall left which thearetically can hold more power, but 75.5 mm have proven to hold 400 whp pretty easy just don't want to really go over the 500 whp mark things start to get sketchy then.

since money doesn't seem to be a big factor to you just go with some eagle h beam rods and cp pistons. that will be plenty for your goal and be beefy enough for you!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
or were you trying to say the 75mm pistons will hold more power but not give me the desired piston to wall clearence? if so what can be a factor in not having a desired piston to wall clearence?
 

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sprinkle fingers
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well it just all depends on how many miles are on the motor. With are 1.6 sohc motors the rod ratio is so i high that are sleeves tend to ware in a egg shape manner. For me i elected to go with eagle rods and cp pistons that was 75.5mm with a .oo4 piston to wall clearance for anywhere between 400 and 480 whp goal. I would highly recommend just going ahead and boring it 20 over which is 75.5mm pistons.
 

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Going .5 over is a good idea no matter when your doing a high hp build or just rebuilding your grandmas geo metro. The straighter the cylinder wall the better ring seal you will get wich equals more power and less blow by.

Excessive P2W clearance can lead to piston slap and eventually breaking piston skirts along with your car sounding like a diesel truck at idle.

I would definitly suggest atleast going .5 over with anything your about to do and then plan off of that. After going through so much money to get a build right, minds well make sure the bores are straight right?

For the h-beam vs i-beam. I-beams are strong and you dont have to notch the block out, however they are a little heavier than the h-beams due to the design (unless you get the crower,probe or scat rods that have the insides milled out) and cost a little bit more than h-beams. H-beams are strong as hell but require a good chunk of the cylinder wall to be removed and are hefty themselves. Im actually using i-beams at the moment from FJT.

For pistons if your on a small budget or just want to save some money, go with YCP vitaras they are awesome pistons for the money. If you have a little cash laying around go with forged arias or SRP pistons (endyne also makes great pistons). Make sure with forged pistons you get the P2W clearances correct they require a few more thou clearance vs cast pistons so make sure you buy your pistons and hand your block and pistons over to your machinist before you bore it.
 

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FJ's bottom end rebuild kits are pretty affordable, even for my broke ass.


FJ Distributors
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks guys for the help understand a lot more. anouther question though. the head i will be using for this build is a d16z6 head but what would be the best block to use that with. in my car now is the jdm d15b so i could use that block or buy a z6 block for cheap and use that. which block would be the best choice?
 

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jdm d15b so i could use that block or buy a z6 block for cheap and use that. which block would be the best choice?
IMO i say go with the full z6. and you already have the pnp head and the works so that's a real good start. i say go 75.5.

GET A GOOD TUNE!!

that's like the #1 thing to stress about if you want your setup (no matter wich block you use) to last even remotely long or run right.

best of luck to you my friend!

-chris
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks man good tune is no doubt probably going s100 p28 at my local tuner near me at r/t tuning. vince the guy there is pretty good. still trying to see what the advantages are for the d16z6 over d15b or vise versa.
 

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tuning is the key to this success.if your looking for good horsepower and a reliable dd. fj distributor has a really good set that has been proven with some amazing horsepower. just the basic custom i beam rods and vitara pistons. theres really no need to go forged but it is okay to get it if you have and are willing to spend the extra money. but the forged are just stronger to withhold detnation. this is the reason why a good tuner well be needed.
 

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d15b better r/s ratio. fjt is the only one who makes rods for them (last i checked).
d16z6 rods are abundant. little more power out of the hole.

s100? thought that was dead. maybe s300, neptune, ectune. don't know if hondata has ti yet but you can serial stream from a innovative wideband on the other 2
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok thanks guys. now i am defiantly going with fj distributors bottom end kit for the z6. my question now is i see they also offer a 76mm piston set. what would be best the 75.5mm or 76mm? also hondata got rid of the s200 they still have the s100 and s300.
 

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I'd go 75.5mm. If you go 76mm you kinda limit yourself to power. The cylinder walls will be in the back of your mind the whole time lol.

I have the s300 and I love it. Very user friendly.
 

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I wouldn't go any larger than 75.5mm for the first rebuild of the block. That way if you have a problem down the road, there is room to bore over another .020" if needed.

On a side note - 75.5mm is the service limit on these engines. but 76mm hs been proven safe for under 300hp. At leas that is what FJ told me.
 

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75.5 for boost, 76 for NA. or at least that is the way i see it.
not saying you couldn't do 76 and boost, just makes no sense if the block will go to 75.5 and be fine
 
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