Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok so here is my situation... bought this car for dirt recently and now i am starting to wish i hadnt. at first i though it had a mini-me in it because i wiped off enough grime to see D16A on the block (assumed a1) and the head and manifold looked almost exactly like a z6 head and mani i have had sitting around for a while. well come to find out that its actually just a D16A and that that motor came with a P08-5 head (which is what is on it) and is a vtec motor. ok i can live with this. the factory ecu is supposed to be a p91 and this has a p28 in it (not to sure if this is the problem or not).

my issue is that this god damned thing wont freakin idle!!! at first it was a high idle with occasional lope which i attributed to that fact that whoever initially owned this had the fan hardwired to the accessory power to run all the time. so i replaced the relay and fuse and hooked it up to work the way it was designed and as soon as it seems like it goes into closed loop it starts detonating and running like crap. when it idles it lopes really bad and i have already cleaned the IAC and replaced the FITV and still the same thing. like i said at first i figured it was an issue of the whole "mini-me" thing but now knowing that this is just one motor i am freakin loosing my mind over this. anything that anyone might suggest is worth a try. thank you in advance.

oh yeah and of course... no check engine light
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,676 Posts
Did you wash the throttle body and get some water into the throttle position sensor. Water in there or in the plug causes fast eratic idle and stalling when coming to a stop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
i did not reset the ecu... im guessing thats the one where you disconnect the battery and put the two terminals together for like 5 minutes or something like that... one of the master techs at my work said something about that. i didnt wash the throttle body. i just pulled it of and cleaned it with TB cleaner then put it back on using a new gasket (initially there was a vacuum leak at the TB)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
891 Posts
clean iacv

reset ECU by just disconnecting the negative

then when it's warm bleed the coolant system. this is with the fitting at the right side of the head where the coolant line is.

Your P28 is probably fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
Have you checked for the health of the engine? IE compression/leakdown test. I know either of these wouldn't solve the issue but it could point to a few spots to check. Also, like everyone else said bleed the coolant system because air in the coolant lines could cause an erratic idle. I've always just parked on a hill with the nose of the car up and pulled the rad cap started the car with the heat on to get the air out of the system. Reason for the heat is so you get the air out of the heater core as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
There is also a Coolant Bleeder screw on the left side of the head, that connects to the radiator hose. It's a 12mm bolt. Start the car and loosen till coolant comes out in a constant stream.

Most people say that a steep hill with the heat cranked is better than the bleeder. Good luck with your idle!
 

·
ministry of mayhem!
Joined
·
5,673 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
Uphill or downhill. Need more specifics on this. This is probably how they bleed the system from the factory. Mad JDM engine maintenance.
My first post says uphill... put the nose of your car uphill and pop the rad cap off then start the car with the heater on. This makes the rad cap the highest point in the coolant system which is where the bubbles will eventually make their way to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,676 Posts
I just jack the car up at the front, more on the right hand side.

I still think it is TPS fault or just possibly the throttle dash pot/damper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
is there a test procedure for the tps? i looked on all data at work and couldnt find anything strangely enough. i wish we had mitchell cause its way better for electrical problems. i did however seek the wisdom of one of the master techs i work with and he said to check the t-stat... so i bought a new one and pulled the housing off... it wasnt there. so at this point whoever owned this thing before me is an asshole. the fan was hardwired to acc power, the fan fuses and relay were pulled, and the t-stat was removed. argh... and now the fan wont click on... if you owned this car you better hope i dont f*$%&n find you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
801 Posts
is there a test procedure for the tps? i looked on all data at work and couldnt find anything strangely enough. i wish we had mitchell cause its way better for electrical problems. i did however seek the wisdom of one of the master techs i work with and he said to check the t-stat... so i bought a new one and pulled the housing off... it wasnt there. so at this point whoever owned this thing before me is an asshole. the fan was hardwired to acc power, the fan fuses and relay were pulled, and the t-stat was removed. argh... and now the fan wont click on... if you owned this car you better hope i dont f*$%&n find you.
welcome to the world of second hand civic shopping dude. you would be surprised at the shit people try to pass off.

I would go over that engine from top to bottom so that you can catch anything else that you run into. Also, if its really not looking to good perhaps swapping may be in your future. plenty of cheap sohc engines to be had.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
yeah that thought has crossed my mind... already talking to a buddy of mine who is an importer about gettin a SIR front clip. we'll see what he comes back with. if not then you are right there are plenty of SOHC motors running around
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top