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I just put a Z6 head on my 90 Si Hatch, It started up and idles fine but won't rev past 4k where its starts missing and sounds exactly like the rev limiter.. Cam timing and ignition timing are right on.. Thanks for any help...

 

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The ECU is stock, whatever came stock in a 90 Si Hatch with a D16A6.. I'm new to this but was pretty sure the stock ecu would work being that I am using the a6 intake and dizzy still... Nothing else has been changed from stock. D16Z6 head, timing belt, and head gasket. Thats it.. Thanks for the help.

 

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I let the car idle for 30 minutes today, It wouldn't even get hot enough for the thermostat to open for some reason. It idles great and revs fine up to 3K where it starts to go rev rev rev rev .... like I'm tapping on the gas pedal. I did a compresion test and while it was not great, all were 120psi or more.
My friend was telling me that his Intega did that to him once and it was the igniter. But the only reason I don't think it is the igniter is because the car was running just fine before I swapped the heads... ????????

 

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Could it have anything to do with the fact that I have not hooked up the VTEC solenoid. ? But even it I did hook it up to a rpm activated switch wouldn't it still have to rev past 3K before it activates anyway???

 

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So should I start advancing or retarding the cam timing ?

 

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Well I played with the cam timing, I tried it retarded and advanced and nothing changed. I left the intake in the car when I did the head swap and didn't disconnect any sensors so I know the TPS and MAP aren't switched. I'm using the same dizzy as before also but maybe I should try another one. Why is the CEL on while it is running but it not on if you just turn the ignition on without starting it ?? Thanks alot for all the help and ideas..

 

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I am using the a6 dizzy in the Z6 head. You have to grind out the mounting holes to get it to bolt up and get the timing set right. Even then you only get to use 2 of the 3 bolts to hold it down.. Kinda ghetto but it works.. And gues what, I finally was able to pull the code from my ecu and its code 4. Crank angle sensor.. So it looks like I get to replace my dizzy anyways... I wish you could help me to, this thing is driving me crazy lol.... Oh and yes I am using a z6 belt..

 

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:cussing: Ok so I put in a new distributor, fire her up and what do ya know? I still have the same problem... Rev limiter set at 3K and ecu is saying code 4, Crank angle Sensor... So now what? Get a different ECU ? I'm about to try putting a stock A6 head back on, even though I can't see why the head has anything to do with it.. I'm lost... Anyone in WA wanna buy a car ? lol

 

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I really believe that the timing is dead on. I tied moving the cam one tooth advanced and one tooth retarted and it was the same, I put the distributor in with out bolts and moved it all over the place to see if it made a difference... Still nothing. I am putting the groove on the crank pully (the one to the right of the red one a inch or so) right on the pointer, and the cam is lining up right with the pointer on the plastic cover behind the cam sprocket, while the other 2 lines are parallel with the valve cover mounting surface and the top of the cam gear says "up". Am I doing somthing wrong ?
-Thanks...

 

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ya, I got the timing correct.... God I hate this car... Anybody know where I can get some dynamite ??

 

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Well thanks for the help. I'm wondering if I got a faulty distributor? It is a remanufactured one. And I'm noticing with this one that the tach needle jumps around all crazy even at idle..

 

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Hmmm.. So how much wiring do I have ahead of me if I opt to convert to OBD1 ? and thanks for the help...

 

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Ok I went through and tested the crank angle sensor as per the Helms manual, I don't have a PGM-FI test harness so I cant really test the ohms at the ecu. The angle sensor tests good at the dizzy. So I guess I should find another known good ecu and see what happens ?