Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alrite everyone, i live in england and drive a 2002 Civic EP1 (D14Z6); i know that engine code alone will probably get me a lot of 'don't bother answers' and the rest of it, but i'm hoping someone can help me with my problem anyway!

Right, so basically, my engine is a 1.4 sohc non-vtec, it is, in essance the same engine as the D16V1 from the EP2 (sport) civic, apart from a bigger bore and obviously a 'eco-vtec' head; which is basically the same as the D17A2 from the EM2 (coupe), main difference being that the D17 has a slightly longer throw of the crank than the D16!

Now bearing that in mind, most parts for the D16/7 can be used on my car in one way or another.

With my build i am aiming to hit maybe 140-50bhp, with my lump being 90 standard (sorry about the english slang!).

I am going to run a fully reconditioned Garret T2, and depending on some opinions from here and other places, i want to run K20 injectors, or H22 injectors.

Now down to my question (Clippet from a post i made on another civic forum, but it seems that an answer cannot be got apart from when you ask "y0 manz how much HP if i strap a T6 blower on my B18 y000!!!!"):

***Just thought i'd post a piccy up of my HKS Turbo manifold i ordered from america, it's quite hard to find bits like this that aren't ebay shite for the newer D-series engine (Ep1,2). I paid £120 delivered from the states which i don't think was too bad, no import charges either, build quality looks good; nice and simple just how i like. (Sorry for the shitty phone pics)







The only trouble im facing is that the flange is point outwards towards the bumper instead of down towards the floor. Now what i was thinking was if possible maybe i could turn the compressor and exhaust housing round so that the oil feed and exit are in the correct place, as i have had an adapter from my T2 to the T25 on the manifold ready to be welded up but don't really want it to be a 90 degree adapter. Is it possible to turn the bearing housing to maintain oil feed positions so that the turbo can be mounted like this:



The circled pipe is the oil feed, so that would need to be turned to face up right, i'm not too clued up on stripping one of these down yet some i'm unsure of whether or not i can re-arrange to how i would like it. Any help from some seasened vet's would be much appreciated!***

^^ As i said in that post i'm not too clued up on turbo assembly so need some advice as to whether the bearing housing can be 'turned' to re-position oil in/out's whilst keeping the same exhaust and compressor housing positions??

And lastly just a couple of pics of my EP1:

- 16" Oz alloys.
- Lowered ~55mm on budget coilovers (temporary).
- Full 2 1/2" unrestricted system from 'header' to 'silencer' < :)
- PLX Wideband 02 Sensor and A/F R Gauge (ready for some boost).
- Greddy eManage, not yet fitted.








Now i know it's only a 1.4 but this is more of a learning experience for me than anything, and i'm to prove to my mates that D series Honda engines are the fucking ones!

Any help with my problems or just general opinion's and or advice is appreciated! :)
 

·
Registered
Honda Civic
Joined
·
213 Posts
You need to "clock" your turbo. Loosen the bolts on the compressor side and turbine side and rotate the sides accordingly so everything will mate up properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mate, i did figure this out after a couple of minutes of fiddling about! Took me longer to write that post lol.

Your car looks good running some nice power.
 

·
Registered
92 Civic Hatch
Joined
·
1,757 Posts
Thanks mate, i did figure this out after a couple of minutes of fiddling about! Took me longer to write that post lol.

Your car looks good running some nice power.
Welcome man!

clocking the turbo is pretty common, had to do it on all my turbo builds Ive done.

Just make sure it spins freely once you re-tighten the bolts (obviously) and your set!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for the late reply, i didn't think anyone was really interested so i hvan't checked in a while! I got the Mani off ebay, build quality seems good and for the price i paid delivered from your side of the pond was a bargain! Here is a link:

HKS Cast Iron Turbo Exhaust Manifold 01-03 Civic D17 | eBay

He doesn't seem to have any left though.... Might be worth emailing him if you really want one!

I will get a build up soon, just had my laser cut flanges back from down the road, it took 2 months so i got them free too! But no i have them back i can sort the adaptor out for the turbo to mani.

Does anyone know what ECU's can be run on this ECU in the EP/EM2, as far as i know from researching about it, i would need a Type R (EP3) ECU first, then have KPRO or K100 fitted to that; all of that plus a decent tune will cost me in excess of £1000 :\

Also what size injectors should i be looking at if im shooting for 140-50~ BHP?
 

·
Registered
1966 Volvo
Joined
·
3,608 Posts
RSX-S injectors will fit your build and work just fine for your power goals. They are good to about 180whp on that platform. The drop right in, clips are identical and you just need longer studs (or bolts) for the fuel rail.

In regards to engine management.....I would think kpro would work on that platform, but can't guarantee because I haven't seen an ECU pinout for your motor. You'd have to get one and then compare the two to see what would have to be moved to get it to run right.

Other than kpro you would have to run a piggyback EMS like the AEM FIC, PCS-XFC, or e-Manage. FWIW, Hondata will not give you any customer support on kpro since its not designed for your application.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
What flow rate are those injectors?? I have eManage with the injector and ignition harness, but don't want to be fighting the ECU adjustements with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ah perfect size then! Currently going for these:

honda civic type r k20 fuel injector's | eBay

Same injector though aren't they?

I'm also half way through modifying a D16Z6 Inlet manifold to fit my engine as the one i have is the crappy plastic one with the upward facing Throttle body.

In terms of running an oil feed to the turbo, do i need to run a restrictor? It's an OEM Audi item, and the inlet and outlet fittings are from the OEM set up still, but they do not appear to have a restrictor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
No oil only, i'll go have a stop by the scrappy tomorrow and see if theres any in there.

Cheers for answering my questions mate, people rarely take an interest!
 

·
Registered
1966 Volvo
Joined
·
3,608 Posts
If its oil only, don't run a restrictor as it will need all the oil it can get since it performs the double duty of both lubrication and cooling.

I know what you're going through having built a turbo D17 while stationed in the UK. If its not a K20, Cosworth or a Mini, when you ask someone if they can do something with an odd car, their eyes roll and you get a "Can't do that mate." Frustrating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
764 Posts
If it were me I would drop the T2 and atleast spring for a T25. The spool up is not going to be that much different but the potential will be far greater. I know you are only looking for 140ish but the T25 will get you the same 140ish and it will do so a great deal more effeciently which means the IC'r will not have to work nearly as hard. The T25's are dirt cheap anyway. I would sell the T2 to someone with Mini or someone wanting to swap a turbo on a 4 wheeler or motorcycle.

Do you have a compressor map for that turbo? All the T2 stuff I have seen is really being pushed at 150hp. Pretty much all D series motors can safely handle 200hp on stock internals and I would venture to say so will the D14. What scares me though is the 10.4:1 CR. That is a taste high mate. I would see what could be done about getting that in check. Atleast around 9.5:1.
 

·
Registered
1966 Volvo
Joined
·
3,608 Posts
As long as his tune is solid, it should be pretty fun with low boost on that compression. I think the problem he will find is sourcing a tuner who's eyes aren't going to glaze over and show him to the door when he explains what he wants tuned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
If it were me I would drop the T2 and atleast spring for a T25. The spool up is not going to be that much different but the potential will be far greater. I know you are only looking for 140ish but the T25 will get you the same 140ish and it will do so a great deal more effeciently which means the IC'r will not have to work nearly as hard. The T25's are dirt cheap anyway. I would sell the T2 to someone with Mini or someone wanting to swap a turbo on a 4 wheeler or motorcycle.

Do you have a compressor map for that turbo? All the T2 stuff I have seen is really being pushed at 150hp. Pretty much all D series motors can safely handle 200hp on stock internals and I would venture to say so will the D14. What scares me though is the 10.4:1 CR. That is a taste high mate. I would see what could be done about getting that in check. Atleast around 9.5:1.
Well i think for the time being i will try the T2, as i already have it, and have had all the flanges laser cut etc. It will be fairly easy to upgrade to a T25 in the future wouldn't it?

See this is where i lack experience and knowledge, i have researched compression ratios and the like but have never fully understood it, what dangers are there to the build if i don't sort the ratio? How would i go about it? There is a company on the internet that can make you custom thicker steel head gaskets, is this the sort of thing i need to be looking into?

I have searched for a compression map, but don't really know where to look, I have all of the serial numbers off the turbo, and used that to search but it only came back with information on the sizes and dimensions!

As long as his tune is solid, it should be pretty fun with low boost on that compression. I think the problem he will find is sourcing a tuner who's eyes aren't going to glaze over and show him to the door when he explains what he wants tuned.
I'm worried about that too! A lot of people don't want to know as soon as you mention eManage; let alone what i'm trying to use it for! I thought that i could at least get it to ruin safely, even if it's not making maximum power, until i find someone who i trust!

Has anyone ever used these Durafix Easy Weld rods, i was going to use them to fix a throttle body adaptor to my D16Z6 Inlet Manifold, it seems to be quite strong in the videos, i thought i could fix the adaptor with this, then drill and tap into the adaptor?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250842054582&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
 

·
Registered
1966 Volvo
Joined
·
3,608 Posts
Those 'welding rods' suck. I believed the hype and couldn't do shit with them. Don't waste your money, find someone who can tig weld aluminum. I was lucky enough to find a guy near Peterborough when I needed some stuff done.

In regards to your compression ratio, it can lead to some serious problems if the car is not tuned correctly. Most folks like to start a turbo build on a motor that is running anywhere between 8.5-9:1 static compression. As you start pressurizing your intake manifold with a turbo, you've got a safe margin to run some decent boost and more headway because your dynamic compression won't get nearly as high as a motor starting with 10.4:1, as is your case. The key is the tune. You need to make sure that's solid so that you don't detonate your combustion charge, or run into pre-ignition both of which can be disastrous - from toasted bearings to bent and broken conrods and melted pistons. Find a tuner first and run some colder spark plugs (two steps colder than OEM is my recommendation). Premium fuel is a necessity and helps prevent detonation.

An engine's compression ratio is different than a compressor map.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Fuck haha ^^ Guess i threw some money away, i'll wait till they arrive and see. Is the only way to lower the engine compression with aftermarket pistons then? As i have read about thicker headgaskets etc, but that seems to be a bit of a bodge? I know a compressor map is different from the engines compression ratio, but i just don't know where i can find one for my turbo!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Ha right, so now i just need to figure out what my C/R will be if i stack 2 OEM gaskets; i also wondered if D17 Cometic gasket would fit.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top