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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I have a 2002 EM2 D17A1. and have a few questions about forced inductions and goals.
Goals: 250whp

I am currently running a stock D17a1 i will be pulling the engine and replacing all the gaskets in the head and installing
-ARP Rod bolts
-ARP headstuds
-RDX injectors

The rest I plan to leave stock as far as the engine goes.

1. Is 250whp obtainable with the listed mods to the engine with obvious forced induction installed?

2. If so would i be able to achieve it on a .42/.48 turbo or would i need to go with something bigger? like a .50/.63 turbo.

3. Ideally I would like to making that power at somewhere between 10-15 psi.

4. I know everyone says Hondata ftw but i have seen some successful setups with Fi/C. Is 250whp obtainable with FI/C?
 

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ej8
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I dont know the breaking limit of the d17 but i am guessing it is around or better then the d16.
So with that said the breaking part of the rods should be right around 250BHP (if d17 rods are thicker then 300BHP.

The smaller the turbo the faster it will spool. At the same time it will top out early.
So pick the turbo size base on how you will drive the car.
a small t3 42/48 should be able to hit 300hp.

Dont get hung up on psi. Its not a big deal. Its power output that matters.
Only use psi level to pick a map sensor.

Since you plan to run the AEM FIC it should be fine for 20psi (i think the map can read 24psi)
The HP level isnt a limiting factor of the FIC, So yes it can hit that whp no problem.

Things about the fic tho. Is a delay start or extra long cranking times.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The smaller the turbo the faster it will spool. At the same time it will top out early.
So pick the turbo size base on how you will drive the car.
a small t3 42/48 should be able to hit 300hp.

Dont get hung up on psi. Its not a big deal. Its power output that matters.
Only use psi level to pick a map sensor.

Since you plan to run the AEM FIC it should be fine for 20psi (i think the map can read 24psi)
The HP level isnt a limiting factor of the FIC, So yes it can hit that whp no problem.

Things about the fic tho. Is a delay start or extra long cranking times.
I was getting hung up on PSI only because i've read that its the pressure that will blow up the d17's.
As for a turbo i would like something to kinda pack a punch but i don't want it to hit full boost too late in the rpm range.
When do you thing a 42/48 will be in full boost vs a 50/63 (the too turbos i'm debating on)
 

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ej8
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yea who ever said that about psi doesnt know what your talking about.

a k04 turbo (hand size) @ 30psi might be the same CFM as a t3 @ 5psi.

Alot of people talk about psi but its really CFM that is the need to know on turbos.
And its TQ and bad tunes that break motors.

Your have to read a compressor map to see when the turbo will spool with your motor.

AS for the turbo size. It depends on which turbos these are.
I ran the ebay t3 45 trim. Which is probably the 42/48 your talking about.
It spool good on my d16. there some info in my sign.

But the difference in the turbo is probably 500rpms or so.

so the 42 might hit full boost at 3.9k while the 50 would hit the same psi at 4.3k
but it will pack extra hp since its a bigger turbo.

So either turbo will work. and you wont have to redline it to make power.
 

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the d17 rods are thinner than your traditional d16 rod. you should really budget yourself some money towards a total engine refresh with new aftermarket rods and pistons if you intend to go beyond 200whp.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the d17 rods are thinner than your traditional d16 rod. you should really budget yourself some money towards a total engine refresh with new aftermarket rods and pistons if you intend to go beyond 200whp.
Everyone seems to say this but it's very hard to find specs for a side by side comparison
 

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It seems like a small amount of difference OP, but a stronger piston support is not a good trade for teh loss in crank end strength and support when the extra stroke is also adding stress.

This is why many D17 owners usually stuck to around 200whp, maybe 250whp with a really good tune. The d17 tends to make more "safe" horsepower versus teh D16 simply because of the extra stroke. what would make 200whp on the average d16 would make around 215-225whp on the d17 for this reason. but the general rule of thumb of 200whp is still recommended.


As far as Ive ever known (i havent specifically looked it up) crower makes d17 rods, and you can have Arias make a set of pistons for a reasonable price. then you have a solid motor capable of 400whp with reasonable reliability based on the tuner's additude
 

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Hello,
I have a 2002 EM2 D17A1. and have a few questions about forced inductions and goals.
Goals: 250whp

I am currently running a stock D17a1 i will be pulling the engine and replacing all the gaskets in the head and installing
-ARP Rod bolts
-ARP headstuds
-RDX injectors

The rest I plan to leave stock as far as the engine goes.

1. Is 250whp obtainable with the listed mods to the engine with obvious forced induction installed?

2. If so would i be able to achieve it on a .42/.48 turbo or would i need to go with something bigger? like a .50/.63 turbo.

3. Ideally I would like to making that power at somewhere between 10-15 psi.

4. I know everyone says Hondata ftw but i have seen some successful setups with Fi/C. Is 250whp obtainable with FI/C?
1. 250whp should be possible on stock motor. Reliability will be up to the tune/tuner.

2. I had a .42/.48 on my D17 turbo and torque started falling off badly above 5k rpm (12 psi). Switched to a .50/.63 and make a nice, flat torque curve all the way to redline (10 psi). But spool is later

3. 15 psi is pushing it on that turbo. 10 psi is about max for efficiency based on compressor map (the .42/.48)

4. I ran FI/C and now Kpro. If I could do it again, I'd never buy FI/C and just put the money towards Kpro. It worked for me for a year, but the difference is worth $500-600
 
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