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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Aloha everyone, I know i will probably be flamed for this but i am on alittle bit of a time crunch and after searching for about ah hour i couldnt find a complete answer... I'll try my best to explain everything fully so there is no guess work..

Car History.
I have a bone stock 96 Civic DX, the car has just under 127k on it. im the third owner (bought it in march), the guy that had it before me put 50k miles on in over 10 years. just recently it started to develop a bad "Rod Knock".

now on to my situation.

I have 4 D series motors laying around... what would be the best combo for what i have, money is tight and i have less then a month to put everything together to use as my daily driver. (please keep in mind i live in Hawaii so any parts that need to be ordered from the "continental" US will take about 3 - 4 weeks to get here) hence the time crunch. I would like to boost the motor later when money isent so tight. so any "cheap" prep work that can be done to handle low boost (5 - 10 lbs) would be helpful

D15b2 - Complete. still in a running 90 lx that i dont use cause the clutch is gone and there is some body damage.

d15b7 - has a coolent leak out of the back of the motor somewhere my friend couldnt find the leak so he just gave me the motor.

D16y7 - in the car now with a nasty rod knock

D16y8 block with a z6 head - I had removed the head already and was gonna build it up but ran out of time and cash. on top of that im not sure how well the guys put the motor together.


I have the p28 computer that came from the Y8/z6 motor so i know i'll need a jumper harness to use it in my car

a friend of mine said i should just slap the Y8/Z6 back together but I couldnt find a thread specific to building that particular "mini me" what head gasket to use, timing belt etc..

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Have you dissembled the y7 (with the Rod Knock) to see what's going on in there?
I would get some parts from the y8 Block and fix your y7.
no the motor is still in the car.. it runs and drives incase i need it in a pinch i was gonna start to pull the motor this weekend

the knock happens at around 2500 to 3k after that theres a weird smell out of the exhaust and a detonation like sound... i will try to take a vid of it tomorrow but i have had a few people tell me that it is definatly a rod knock and to change it asap


on a side note gaining vtec would be a plus
 

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no the motor is still in the car.. it runs and drives incase i need it in a pinch i was gonna start to pull the motor this weekend

Edited:
the knock happens at around 2500 to 3k after that theres a weird smell out of the exhaust and a detonation like sound... i will try to take a vid of it tomorrow but i have had a few people tell me that it is definatly a rod knock and to change it asap


on a side note gaining vtec would be a plus
driving it like that will make it worse and worse :tu:
I know it sounds easier said than done, but pull the Engine out and check out the Rods or see what's going on. y7 and y8 Rods are the Same. Just in case you have a Bad Rod. You will need to get new Bearings though.

Edit:
Damn. you're going to have to find the Real Source then before pulling the Engine out. If it's Sputtering, maybe your Fuel Injectors or a simple Fuel Filter...
 

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i would use the Y8 block, z6 head, z6 head is pretty much the best head, y8 block is pretty good just change the week oil pump. you would need a y8 T-belt, y8 head gasket i think that both those are the same as the z6 if im not mistaken.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
driving it like that will make it worse and worse :tu:
I know it sounds easier said than done, but pull the Engine out and check out the Rods or see what's going on. y7 and y8 Rods are the Same. Just in case you have a Bad Rod. You will need to get new Bearings though.

Edit:
Damn. you're going to have to find the Real Source then before pulling the Engine out. If it's Sputtering, maybe your Fuel Injectors or a simple Fuel Filter...
what exactly should i be looking for? and by taking it apart what gaskets will i need to put it back together? just the oil pan gasket correct?

i wouldn't call it sputtering but i can show you a vid of it before i noticed the knock.. i will PM it to you as it is kinda embarrassing..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i would use the Y8 block, z6 head, z6 head is pretty much the best head, y8 block is pretty good just change the week oil pump. you would need a y8 T-belt, y8 head gasket i think that both those are the same as the z6 if im not mistaken.
will i have any timing issues? and the old distributor that came with the motor had groves cut in the adjusting points to hold it in place for the correct timing..
 

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what exactly should i be looking for? and by taking it apart what gaskets will i need to put it back together? just the oil pan gasket correct?

i wouldn't call it sputtering but i can show you a vid of it before i noticed the knock.. i will PM it to you as it is kinda embarrassing..
Don't feel embarrassed!
Post it Here. You're going to get Help for it. Don't worry.

If you disassemble it, you will need a New Head Gasket for Sure. I wouldn't put a new Oil Pan Gasket (that's just me).
New Rings for that Piston I guess....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't feel embarrassed!
Post it Here. You're going to get Help for it. Don't worry.

If you disassemble it, you will need a New Head Gasket for Sure. I wouldn't put a new Oil Pan Gasket (that's just me).
well lets just say my mom thought she could be a hot shot and burn rubber with my car... in turn she fried my clutch.. so here it is...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lvtYICumKM
 

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i am by no means an expert or anything like it BUT if it was me i would run that engine to the ground.... i woudnt go trhough the hassle of fixing it having 4 more engines... i would slowly but surely fix the y8 if i remember correctly with the z6 and if that one takes a crap on you slap it on my 02
 

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that is a rod knock my friend... if you wanna do it right your gonna have to pull it, replace all bearings and everything....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
im really curious.. what would i need to make the y8 block with the z6 head work in my car.. just glancing over the swap i think i would have a problem with the throttle cable.. other then that and the jumper harness to convert to OBD1 and it should be just a strait bolt in correct? as long as i can put the motor back together properly right? does anyone know of a DIY that covers the Y8 block with a z6 head build specificly? or has anyone done it?
 

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Y8 block and Z6 head will work just fine. Make sure you have a Z6 Dizzy, Y8/Z6 ARP head bolt kit(one head bolt near V-Tec Solenoid is shorter then the rest), Y7/Y8/Z6 Timing Belt, Stick with Y8 oil pump(port if anything) you can run the P28 or P2P ECU. U should already have a knock sensor on that Y8 block so if u used a P2P ECU you wouldn't need a jumper. Wiring involved would be Knock sensor, 3-wire to 2-wire IACV conversion, V-Tec Pressure switch and V-tec solenoid.
http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/how-tos-tutorials/32971-d16-mini-me-swap-write-up.html
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/z6swap/z6swap.html
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3094
http://spdweb.net/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=30
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=406100
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thinking about going with a full Z6 motor instead... found a 93 EX coupe for $400 slight body damage so im gonna pick it up and part out the car to make some cash back... started taking out the y7 today as well.. i'll post some pics when i get the chance... im gonna order a jumper harness from ebay the car is automatic but i have the p28 on the side with an 5 speed ex trans already
 
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