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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys, as many of you know I have started a D-series build. Now that I have been visiting these forums for a while I have became rittled with thoughts of forced induction vs N/A. Now I have researched each setup very deeply and have also gone as far as to set up parts and prices list for either option. I have concluded that I need aditional input from other people that have been through the delema that I have been through. I am trying to keep myself on a budget so I realy want to get the biggest bang for my buck in the way of dependability and hp gains. I am not willing to purchas another vehicle at this point in time so whatever setup i choose to go with it will be daily drivin and will have to be dependable.

I have listed each of the setups that I am considering.
I realy want to go with a turbo setup but I will definatly need some help on setting it up and so forth.
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N/A setup. Expected 145-150whp:
Edelbrock Intake Manifold
Megan Racing Header
AEM Cold Air Intake/Bypass Valve
Lightweight Flywheel
Comp Cams stage 2 cam with valve springs and retainers
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This totals out to be about $1500
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Turbo Setup Expected 180whp:
T25 or T3
CCFAB Log Mani ( have to keep ps and ac )
Down Pipe
FMIC
Charge Piping
Tail Wast Gate ( not needed if I go with the DSM turbo )
Greddy BOV
Oil Line Kit
Boost Guage
DSM Injectors
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This toatals to about $1200
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Now it only seems sensible to me to go with the FI setup but I have concerns about drivability and reliability.

Please if you have any thoughts that would help me decide what to do would be greatly apreciated.

Anything that I may have left out?

Thanks Alot.
Ken:hammer:
 

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you better put aside another 200-400 for the FI setup since you dont have anything in terms of fuel management, you didn;t even list a fmu there. if i were u i'd do it right the first time and get a chipped ecu, wideband o2, bigger injectors, and maybe bigger fuel pump, the pump isn;t that important though since i hear the stock one can support ~220 hp
 

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It really shouldn't even be a question. OH GOD, here I go.

I've said this before and I will say this again. It takes a VERY nice all motor sohc build to be respectable. You will see loads of stock internal sohc's running 12's all day long turboed all over honda-tech. Not saying that an all motor sohc can't run those times, they certainly can and have. But generally it's in a lighter car (ef/eg hatch/crx) not like the Ek you have in yopur avatar.

Also I think your numbers are a bit off. I don't think that NA setup will yeild what you think it will. I'd estimate that NA setup to make about 130-140 at the most to the wheels, unless you seriously bump the compression.

And boosted you can make around 200 on that setup with a decent t3 and a nice engine management system. Spend the $300 you save on the turbo build and buy a decent wideband. You should have no reliability problems as long as your motor runs strong when you turbo it.

Good Luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Im sorry I forgot to mention that I already have a P06 that is in the process of being converted to a P28/chipped.

I have access to a wideband and a very knoledgable guy for tuning.

I also included a set of dsm 390/450cc injectors in the FI price just forgot to list them.

Thanks
Ken
 

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Boost it, having enough power to have traction problems is fun. It will be reliable as long as your tune is good, and even with a good tuner putting a basemap on it be sure you get it on a dyno with a wideband. You should also plan on a clutch for the turbo setup, so add $$ for that. I have the ACT street/strip disc (full face carbon/kevlar) and the extreme PP, awsome setup.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for your input guys

sleeperhatch91, yes this will be a EK setup. I realy dont plan to race my ride. In fact I dont even want to have the fastest ride out there. I just want to have a fun and drivable ride that can get some respect at the local car shows. Not that I consider my ride to be a "show car".

I wish that it wast the dead of winter here in ohio so I could get my avitar pic to include my wheels.

Thanks
Ken
 

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krwtek1 said:
Im sorry I forgot to mention that I already have a P06 that is in the process of being converted to a P28/chipped.

I have access to a wideband and a very knoledgable guy for tuning.

I also included a set of dsm 390/450cc injectors in the FI price just forgot to list them.

Thanks
Ken
in that case then FI wins hands down. btw, i'd also spend ~$50 and run the water lines for the turbo to prevent coking
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Clutchmaster, i know what you mean man. I have thought this very same thing also. I just read an article in the febuary volume of Sport Compact Car titled Boost It Yourself. In this article they boost a 94 EX for a 1000 bux. They also get the ride to produce 220whp. This article is what originaly got me thinking BOOST.
 

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Tom Foolery
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Been there done that

I went through exactly what you are doing right now, late nights sitting up thinking about the car, trying to decide what the hell to do. I finally seen the light and decided to go turbo, I couldn't afford any more time to research so I just went with a kit, and my budget is hurting because of it. I would say start piecing together a nice HMT setup and you'll be happy. NA will just leave you wanting more.

-TAG
 

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Black Dynamite
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krwtek1 said:
Clutchmaster, i know what you mean man. I have thought this very same thing also. I just read an article in the febuary volume of Sport Compact Car titled Boost It Yourself. In this article they boost a 94 EX for a 1000 bux. They also get the ride to produce 220whp. This article is what originaly got me thinking BOOST.

By they way love that mag best reading material and info for cars I have come across in a long time just look at my sig...anyways go with you gut if you have a pretty light car (forgot what kind of civic you drove) than a all motor D isn't that bad even using Nitrous for some extra umpf is pretty reasonable. Now don't get me wrong i think boost is great but it also opens up another realm of shit to go wrong as in there are more moving parts to seize up damage ect...It comes down to what you want out of your car if you want a reliable DD maybe stay away from boost for awhile unitl you have some extra transportation. because you have to have the car tunned to run right and get the most out of the setup...I would think of it like this don't think about how much you want to spend now but the later hidden cost of each then make a decison that way
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Man Clutchmaster you are thinking exactly what I am. I am afraid that I will end up working on my ride more than I drive it. If I stay with N/A I am planing on running A6 pistons in my Y8. With this increased cr on top of all the other mods that I have been talking about should yeild a realy fun daily. there is just something about boost that has me second guessing my path for fun.

If I go with N/A I am provinding myself with all new parts that are backed by a manufacturers guarentee. If I go with a HMT setup I will be basing my ride on used parts that may be on the threshold of failing.

I guess I will have less power output by going N/A but I also will have a vertualy headache free ride. If I decide upon boost then I will just have to plan ahead and rely heavily on my technical intuition.

Man Just When I had It All Figured Out:hammer:

I have also thrown around the Idea of ditching the Edelbrock Intake Manifold and using the cash to get a 35-55hp wet shot from zex. This will also be a daily friendly mod.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
I am starting to think that I am not ready to boost. I have heard way too many story's about broken ring lands and melted pistons.

I guess that the only thing I know for sure at this point is that I have a Y8 on a stand that is on its way to becoming a fun little motor. :IHI:

I still would like to hear what others have to say about the issue.

Thanks
Ken
 

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turbo all the way. my y7 turbo in my last car was really reliable, even though i boosted a 120k mile motor and trans. you will have to change your oil more often, and chances of breaking shit are always there, but that is something that you will have to deal with no matter what you decide to do. high compression all motor setups break just as much as turbo setups without proper tuning.
 

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im using pure stock internals boosting 14psi . been doing so for about 6 months already trashing the shit out of my car regularly everyday . other than my electrical problem which i think has nothing to do with the internals its fine
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Well guys the more I think about it, the more that I want to boost my ride.
Are you guys using stock internals? I realy only plan to run 5 or 6 psi for the majority of the time. Maybee on the weekends take it up to 7 or 8 psi.

I have been looking on ebay for T3 turbo's and they seem to be going for around $300, rebuilt and all. What do you guys think of XSPower turbo's? They are all over ebay. I think that I have heard bad news about there stuff. Any Coments?
 

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krwtek1 said:
N/A setup. Expected 145-150whp:
Edelbrock Intake Manifold
Megan Racing Header
AEM Cold Air Intake/Bypass Valve
Lightweight Flywheel
Comp Cams stage 2 cam with valve springs and retainers
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This totals out to be about $1500
Without drasitically raising compression and a unbelievable tune, that would probably be a 120-130whp setup depending on the motor.

Go turbo.
 
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